VAZ 21011 engine: the main thing

The power units on the first domestic car VAZ 2101 were distinguished not only by their simple and understandable design, but also by their amazing durability. And today there are still drivers who operate a "penny" on the "native" engine - it is only necessary to carry out its maintenance on time and refuel with high-quality gasoline.

What engines were equipped with VAZ 21011

The first VAZs in our country began to be produced in 1970. Two types of engines were developed for equipment:

• 2101;
• 21011.

The first type - 2101 - constructively continued the traditions of the Italian Fiat-124, although it was significantly redesigned to meet the needs and goals of the domestic auto industry. The volume of the engine was 1.2 liters, which was enough for a power of 64 horsepower. At the beginning of the 1970s, this was quite enough.

The second type - 21011 - was more powerful and more reliable than its donor. The eight-valve 1.3 engine 21011 was first installed on the VAZ in 1974 and has since been considered the most popular equipment for the “penny”.

The car was equipped with a powerful 69 hp engine for those times.

Technical characteristics of the VAZ 21011 engine

The power unit on the VAZ 21011 weighed a lot - 114 kilograms without lubrication. The in-line arrangement of four cylinders was a classic option for completing the engine. The piston diameter was 79 mm (that is, the size was slightly increased compared to the 2101 type motor).

I must say that the manufacturer declared an engine resource of 120 thousand kilometers, but in practice, drivers were convinced that this was too low a figure. With proper operation, the VAZ 21011 engine did not cause any problems during the first 200 thousand kilometers.

The fuel consumption of the first carbureted engine in 21011 was huge - almost 9.5 liters in a mixed driving mode. However, due to meager fuel prices, the owners did not bear serious expenses for the maintenance of their “four-wheeled friend”.

In general, the VAZ 21011 power unit is a classic AvtoVAZ engine with a cast-iron block and an aluminum head.

We can say that the 21011 motor became the progenitor of all domestic-made engines

Table: main characteristics of the VAZ 2101 and VAZ 21011 engines

Positions	Indicators
WHA 2101	WHA 21011
Type of fuel	Petrol A-76, AI-92	Petrol AI-93
injection device	Carburetor
Cylinder block material	Cast iron
Cylinder head material	Aluminium alloy
Weight, kg	114
Cylinder arrangement	Inline
Number of cylinders, pcs	4
The diameter of the piston, mm	76	79
Piston movement amplitude, mm	66
Cylinder diameter, mm	76	79
Working volume, cm3	1198	1294
Maximum power, hp With.	64	69
Torque, Nm	87,3	94
Compression ratio	8,5	8,8
Mixed fuel consumption, l	9,2	9,5
Declared engine resource, thousand km.	200000	125000
Practical resource, thousand km.	500000	200000
Camshaft
location	top
gas distribution phase width, 0	232
exhaust valve advance angle, 0	42
intake valve lag, 0	40
gland diameter, mm	56 and 40
gland width, mm	7
Crankshaft
Neck diameter, mm	50,795
Number of bearings, pcs	5
Flywheel
outer diameter, mm	277,5
landing diameter, mm	256,795
number of crown teeth, pcs	129
weight, g	620
Recommended engine oil	5W30, 15W40	5W30, 5W40, 10W40, 15W40
Engine oil volume, l	3,75
Recommended coolant	Tosol
Amount of coolant, l	9,75
Timing drive	Chain, double row
The order of the cylinders	1–3–4–2

What engine can be put on the VAZ 21011 instead of the factory

VAZ 21011 is a great option for tuning enthusiasts, since the car has such a simple design that it is quite possible to turn it into anything without major modifications. The same applies to the engine compartment: amateurs can install a more powerful engine without resorting to the help of car service specialists.

However, you need to know the measure in everything: the body of the VAZ 21011 is designed for certain loads, and therefore a heavy-duty engine can simply tear the car apart. Therefore, when choosing an alternative motor, it is best to pay attention to structurally similar options.

For VAZ 21011, both domestic and imported engines may become suitable

Engines from VAZ

Of course, this is the best way to optimize your “penny”, since “related” engines are suitable for the VAZ 21011 in almost all respects. Engines from 2106, 2107, 2112 and even from 2170 are considered optimal for installation. It is important that they fit the mounts " pennies "and optimally converge with the gearbox.

In general, the "six" can become a donor for any VAZ - from the very first to the latest modern models

Power units from foreign cars

With virtually no modifications to the "penny" you can install gasoline engines 1.6 and 2.0 from Fiat.

If you want a more creative approach, then the installation of power units from Renault Logan or Mitsubishi Galant is also allowed. However, these engines will need to be installed complete with a gearbox.

"Fiat Polonaise" has a motor similar in size and fasteners, and therefore can become a donor for a "penny"

Fans of experiments also install diesel engines on a "penny". However, today such a combination cannot be considered expedient due to sharp jumps in diesel fuel prices in all regions of the country.

Malfunctions of the VAZ 21011 engine

We already wrote that the first variations of the VAZ 2101 and 21011 engines are still considered to be one of the most durable and reliable. However, like any technical device, even the most stable motor sooner or later begins to "act up".

The main signs of these "whims", that is, future malfunctions, are the following factors:

• inability to start the engine;
• uneven operation of the engine at idle;
• reduction in power characteristics;
• rapid heating;
• detected noises and knocks;
• the appearance of white exhaust.

Video: how a working motor should work on a “penny”

How should the VAZ 21011 1.3 engine work

Each of these factors does not yet mean problems with the motor, but their combination definitely indicates that the 21011 engine is about to fail.

The appearance of the car should not be misleading: engine breakdowns and malfunctions do not depend on the cleanliness of the body and careful polishing of the paintwork

Unable to start

It is important to understand that the lack of motor response to turning the key in the ignition switch is a global problem. So, for example, if the starter turns, and the engine does not react in any way, then the breakdown can be hidden in any of these elements:

• ignition coil;
• distribution node;
• interrupter;
• ignition circuit (short circuit);
• gasoline pump;
• carburetor installation.

Therefore, if it is impossible to start the engine, you should not immediately run to the car shop and buy all these items for replacement. The first step is to check the presence of voltage on the coil (whether current is coming from the battery). Next, a conventional tester measures the voltage at the remaining nodes. Only after that it is worth starting to look for problems in the gasoline pump and carburetor installation.

Video: what to do if the engine does not start

VAZ 2101 does not start the beginning of stories

Uneven idle

If the “penny” feels extremely unstable when the engine is idling, then the problem may be caused by malfunctions in the ignition or power systems. By default, the instability of the 21011 engine functions is usually associated with:

• breakdowns of the solenoid valve of the carburetor installation;
• severe clogging of the filter elements in the fuel-air system;
• violations in the formation of a combustible mixture in the carburetor;
• sticking spark plugs;
• oxidation / burning of network contacts;
• wire break.

In any case, it is worth starting troubleshooting by checking the ignition system.

Video: unstable operation of the internal combustion engine

Unstable operation of the internal combustion engine vaz 21011

Power reduction

Initially, the driver may notice a decrease in engine traction only when climbing uphill or overtaking. Later, difficulties in picking up speed can become an ordinary problem of the car.

Reducing the power of the power unit is associated with the following malfunctions:

• breakdowns of the fuel pump;
• severe clogging of the filter element in the fuel system;
• malfunctions in the formation of the quality of the combustible mixture;
• the presence of large gaps between the contacts of the breaker;
• piston production.

It is worth saying that the first thing when checking is to evaluate whether the timing marks match and how accurately the ignition timing is set. Only after that you can start checking the performance of other "suspected" nodes.

Video: loss of traction, what to do

Fast heating of the motor

The engine should always be hot during normal operation - the approximate temperature regime for the VAZ 21011 is 90 degrees Celsius. However, if the engine temperature arrow on the dashboard slips into the red sector more and more often for no apparent reason, this is an alarm.

It is strictly forbidden to continue driving when the engine overheats! This will lead to burnout of the cylinder block gasket and immediately to the failure of the piston group.

Severe motor overheating can be caused by:

• thermostat breakdowns;
• malfunctions of the water pump;
• the absence of antifreeze in the expansion tank;
• severe clogging of the radiator;
• broken radiator fan drive belt.

As soon as the thermostat arrow goes into the red sector, you need to stop and check the level of antifreeze in the system. If the liquid is at the level, you will have to look for the true cause of the engine overheating.

Video: causes of overheating and driver actions

Because of what the engine on the VAZ Lada 2101 2102 2103 2104 2105 2106 2107 can warm up

Extraneous noises and knocks

The VAZ 21011 engine cannot be called quiet: during operation, it makes a variety of sounds. However, an attentive driver can hear unusual knocks and sounds in ordinary noises. For 21011 this is:

• knock of valves;
• bearing impacts;
• chirping piston fingers;
• loud rustling of the timing chain.

All these extraneous noise effects do not occur by themselves: they are usually associated with severe wear of parts and assemblies. Accordingly, it is necessary to replace the mechanisms as soon as possible.

Video: engine knock

Engine knock vaz 21011

Repair of the VAZ 21011 engine

Any repair work on the VAZ 21011 engine is carried out only after the unit is dismantled from the car.

How to remove the motor

The engine on the VAZ 21011 weighs 114 kilograms, so you will need the help of at least two people or a winch. Traditionally, you will need to prepare for the procedure:

1. Prepare in advance a viewing hole or overpass for work.
2. It is best to use a hoist (lifting device) or a winch with a reliable cable to drag a heavy motor.
3. Check the set of wrenches for completeness.
4. Be sure to prepare a Phillips and flat screwdriver.
5. Find a clean container for draining antifreeze (a bowl or bucket with a capacity of 5 liters or more).
6. Marker for designation.
7. Two old blankets or rags to protect the car's front fenders when removing the heavy engine.

The procedure for dismantling the engine from the "penny" is as follows:

1. Drive the car into a viewing hole, securely fix the wheels.
   

   The machine must be very securely installed on the pit
2. Unscrew the nuts securing the hood to the canopies, remove the hood to the side. In order not to make a mistake with setting the gaps later, it is better to immediately mark the contours of the canopies with a marker.
3. Cover the front fenders of the machine with several layers of rags or blankets.
4. Unscrew the drain plug from the engine block and drain the antifreeze from it into a container.
   

   Antifreeze must be drained to the last drop
5. Loosen the clamps on the radiator pipes, remove the pipes and remove them.
6. Disconnect the wires from the spark plugs, distributor and oil pressure sensor.
   

   Candles do not need to be removed, just remove the wiring from them
7. Loosen the clamps on the fuel line hoses. Remove all lines leading to the pump, filter and carburetor.
8. Disconnect the terminals on the battery and remove the battery from the car.
   

   The battery must be removed to avoid the risk of electric shock.
9. Remove the intake pipe from the exhaust manifold by unscrewing the two fasteners from the studs.
10. Unscrew the three starter fixing nuts, remove the device from the socket.
11. Unscrew the two upper bolt connections of the gearbox to the motor.
12. Disconnect hoses from radiator.
    

    Remove all pipes and lines
13. Remove all drives from carburettor mechanism surfaces.
14. From under the bottom of the car, dismantle the clutch cylinder (remove the coupling spring mechanism and unscrew the two fastener connections).
    

    The clutch cylinder will not allow the motor to be pulled out, so it must first be removed
15. Unscrew the two lower bolts securing the gearbox to the motor.
16. Unscrew all bolts securing the engine to the supports.
17. Throw the belts of the hoist or winch on the motor. Be sure to check the reliability of the girth.
    

    The hoist will allow you to safely remove the motor and put it aside
18. Slowly raise the motor with a hoist, being careful not to loosen it, place it on a table or a large stand.

After that, it will be necessary to clean the engine surfaces from leakage of working fluids (wipe with a clean, damp cloth). You can start repair work.

Video: how to properly dismantle the motor on a "penny"

how to remove the VAZ 2101 engine without removing the box

Replacing the earbuds

To change the liners on the motor from the VAZ 21011, you only need a set of wrenches and screwdrivers, as well as a torque wrench and a chisel. The order of work is as follows:

1. Unscrew the drain plug from below and drain the oil from the sump.
2. Unscrew the fasteners of the pallet and put it aside.
3. Remove the carburetor and distributor from the engine by unscrewing all the bolts of their fastenings.
4. Unscrew the 8 nuts securing the cylinder head cover, remove the cover and put it aside.
5. Remove gasket from cover.
   

   Gaskets can burn, and therefore it will not be easy to remove them
6. Use a chisel and a screwdriver to bend the stopper of the camshaft sprocket bolt.
7. Unscrew the bolt and remove it together with the washers.
8. Remove the timing chain tensioner by unscrewing the 2 nuts.
9. Remove the sprocket and chain and set them aside.
10. Unscrew the nuts securing the camshaft bearing housing.
11. Remove the housing together with the shaft.
12. Unscrew the connecting rod caps.
13. Remove the covers together with their liners.
14. Remove inserts with a screwdriver.
    

    The spent element can be thrown away

In place of the old liners, install new ones, having previously cleaned the landing site with gasoline from dirt and soot. Then assemble the motor in reverse order.

Replacing the piston rings

To complete this job, you will need the same set of tools as described above, plus a vise and a workbench. A special "VAZ" mandrel for compressing pistons will not be superfluous.

On a disassembled motor (see instructions above), the following steps must be carried out:

1. Push all the pistons with connecting rods out of the block one by one.
2. Clamp the connecting rod with a vise, removing the rings from it with pliers.
   

   In rare cases, the ring can be removed easily and without a vice
3. Clean the surfaces of the pistons from dirt and soot with gasoline.
4. Install new rings, correctly orienting their locks.
   

   It is important to align all the marks on the ring and piston
5. Use a mandrel to install the pistons with new rings back into the cylinders.

Oil pump operation

The car owner needs to know that repair work on the oil pump is possible without dismantling the motor. However, if our engine has already been removed and disassembled, then why not repair the oil pump at the same time?

The order of work is as follows:

1. Unscrew the two bolted connections securing the pump to the motor.
2. Remove the pump along with its gasket.
   

   The device has a very simple design.
3. Remove the oil intake pipe by unscrewing the three bolts securing it to the oil pump housing.
4. Remove valve with spring.
5. Detach the pump cover.
6. Pull the drive gear out of the cavity.
7. Pull out the second gear.
8. Perform a visual inspection of the parts. If the cover, surfaces or gears show severe wear or any damage, these items will need to be replaced.
   

   All damage and signs of wear will be immediately visible
9. After replacing, clean the mesh of the intake with gasoline.
10. Assemble the pump in reverse order.

The VAZ 21011 engine, with the simplest design, still requires a professional approach to repair and maintenance. Therefore, if you do not have experience in this area, then it is better to contact the service station specialists.