How to remove old paint from car metal using a remover: liquid, gel, aerosol
Content
It is not always possible to apply a new layer of paintwork (LKP) without removing the old one. This is possible only in limited cases of repair tinting, when there is confidence that the old paint is holding firmly, and undercoat corrosion has not yet begun under it.
A real overhaul of the body still involves stripping it down to bare metal. The task is very difficult and laborious.
Ways to remove the old coating
In any case, if a decision is made to work efficiently, the old paint must be destroyed in one way or another, since it adheres to the metal very firmly. This is ensured by electrochemical or acid priming of body iron.
You have to use the most severe methods of removal, literally cut down the paintwork with abrasives, burn it with high temperature or dissolve it with aggressive reagents.
Mechanical
For mechanical cleaning, grinding machines with various nozzles are used. The most common in practice are petal circles with large grains.
They work quickly, but leave a large risk, so as they approach the metal, the graininess of the circle is reduced.
- You can start with the petal circle of the brand R40. This is a very large grain, quickly doing the bulk of the work. Then there is a transition to R60 or R80, after which circles with a skin are included in the case 220 and petty 400.
- Not all areas have access with round abrasive nozzles of the grinder. Then you can use rotating wire-based metal brushes. They come in different shapes and sizes for all occasions.
- Sandblasting is very effective, leaving clean metal quickly. But this technology is available only to professionals, since it requires special equipment, production facilities and thoughtful cleaning from flying waste products. Therefore, it is more often used on parts of relatively small sizes and in restoration work.
The advantage of complex mechanical cleaning is the parallel removal of rust with the preparation of pure metal directly under the ground.
This cannot be done in other ways, so machining elements are always present, regardless of additional accelerating procedures.
Thermal (burning out)
During heat treatment of old paintwork, burning and peeling of paints and primers occur. You can use a gas burner or an industrial hair dryer, which gives a powerful jet of hot air with a temperature at the nozzle of about 600 degrees. Both tools have their drawbacks.
The burner is not fire safe. By inattention, you can easily be left not only without paint, but also without a car.
Even if this does not happen, there are other dangers:
- body metal can be overheated, after which its resistance to corrosion will noticeably decrease;
- the flame temperature is such that thin sheet parts can easily be deformed, after which they will have to be straightened or replaced;
- neighboring parts may be damaged, the car has to be completely disassembled.
A hair dryer is safer, but its temperature can also be underestimated. In any case, after thermal removal, additional mechanical cleaning is inevitable, sometimes no less time consuming than without burners and hair dryers.
There is an innovative method of laser processing that combines the application of mechanical and thermal shock to the coating. Everything will be removed except metal, but the price of the equipment exceeds all reasonable limits.
Chemical
The dissolution of paintwork with chemical reagents is very popular. The coating does not completely dissolve, but after exposure to washes, it loosens, peels off and easily moves away from the body using a conventional spatula.
Difficulties arise with keeping the compositions on the body for the reaction time. Means of various consistencies are used. They include organic solvents and acidic or alkaline constituents.
The disadvantage is understandable - all these products are toxic and dangerous for humans, and some for body metal. All this makes it difficult to choose.
What to look for when choosing a washer
It is necessary to take into account the factors of the composition of the original paintwork, methods of application, toxicity and safety for the metal:
- The main problem is the retention of the wash on the surfaces; for this, a gel consistency, protective films, the possibility of additional renewal of the composition, up to the immersion of small removable parts are used;
- If the working conditions do not include strong ventilation, protective clothing and fire-fighting equipment, then this must be taken into account when choosing;
- For different areas it is better to use several different products, for example, there is no need for gel if the surface is horizontal.
Not all products work equally well at low temperatures, when chemical reactions slow down, and at high temperatures, the danger of acidic compounds for the metal increases.
The most popular paint removers
Fund ratings are constantly updated as new compositions appear. You can count on the reputation of manufacturers who will not underestimate the effectiveness of updated products.
Liquids
It is possible to conditionally allocate funds Chemist AS-1 и APS-М10. The compositions are potent, work quickly and have a confident thixotropy, that is, retention on surfaces.
They remove paintwork of any chemical composition, but they are aggressive, require careful handling and strict adherence to the instructions, since they are harmful to metal and humans if the rules of work are not followed.
Gels
Universal remedy BODY 700 It is produced in scoring performance, it works relatively slowly, but reliably. It has increased safety for body parts, keeps well on the surface. Disadvantages include the need for repeated applications and a limited temperature range of application.
Economically consumed and works well at low temperatures composition AGAT Auto Silverline. But the content of volatile components requires good ventilation. Safe for plastic.
Aerosols
From aerosol packages it is worth preferring I OPEN PR-600. Easy to use, no need to reapply.
Disadvantages - the need to work at room-level temperatures, unpredictability in relation to plastics, irritation of mucous membranes. At the same time, it is non-aggressive to metal and can be easily removed with water.
An alternative could be Hi-Gear Quick & Safe Paint & Gasket Remover. A very active substance, it works on all paints and dirt, but it is expensive and not used very economically.
Can you make your own paint remover?
There are ways of folk composition of washes, but due to limited access to perfect reagents and solvents, extremely dangerous substances are used.
They use quicklime, caustic soda, acetone, benzene and other substances on the verge of chemical weapons. There is no point in doing this in modern conditions, the risk is not justified.
Yes, and recipes will have to be selected empirically, not all types of paints, varnishes and primers are designed for certain substances.
Watch this video on YouTube
Application technology
The principles of working with home-made compositions are generally the same as with industrial ones:
- hinged parts are dismantled as much as possible, the rest are protected;
- protective equipment for the skin and mucous membranes is put on the worker;
- the composition is applied by brush, spraying or spraying;
- the surface is periodically leveled and updated as the tool works;
- peeled paint is removed with a spatula and metal brushes;
- the metal is thoroughly washed with water, soapy or soda solution;
- before priming, mechanical preparation to bare metal is carried out.
Finished areas should be primed immediately after drying. Body iron is quickly covered with rust, while the layer is so thin that it is not visible to the eye. However, iron oxides will become catalysts for future under-film corrosion.