Appointment, maintenance and repair of the VAZ 2101 gearbox: step by step instructions with photos and videos
Content
VAZ 2101, like any other car, is equipped with a gearbox. During the operation of the vehicle with the unit, various problems may occur, which you can fix on your own without resorting to the help of specialists. It is important to know the nature of the occurrence of certain breakdowns and the sequence of actions to eliminate them.
Checkpoint VAZ 2101 - purpose
The gearbox (gearbox) VAZ 2101 is one of the main components of the car. The purpose of the mechanism is to convert the torque coming from the engine crankshaft and transmit it to the transmission.
Устройство
On the "penny" was installed box of four forward gears and one reverse. Switching between stages is carried out by moving the gearshift handle located in the cabin. At the time of production, this type of gearbox was considered one of the best, which was due to minimal losses. The main elements of the box are the crankcase, the switching mechanism and three shafts:
- primary;
- secondary;
- intermediate.
There are a lot of components in the box, but the assembly has relatively small dimensions. In order to be able to disconnect the box from the engine, the connection is made through the clutch. The input shaft of the unit has splines through which it engages with the fered (driven disk). The input shaft is mounted inside the box on bearing assemblies: the front one is mounted in the rear of the crankshaft, and the rear one is located in the box crankcase.
The reverse end of the input shaft is equipped with an asterisk, which is a one-piece part with the shaft and is engaged with the intermediate shaft (promshaft). To prevent leakage of grease from the box body, the rear bearing element is sealed with a collar. The end part of the secondary shaft is included in the primary.
Details about the VAZ 2101 timing chain drive: https://bumper.guru/klassicheskie-modeli-vaz/grm/kak-natyanut-cep-na-vaz-2101.html
The centering of the secondary shaft is made by three bearings, simultaneously providing its fastening. A needle is used in front, it is located at the end of the input shaft. The second ball-type bearing is intermediate and is located behind the 1st gear. The third bearing is also a ball bearing, located in the cover of the box housing behind the secondary shaft. The promshaft is located below the two previous shafts. At the same level with it is a node that allows the car to move backward.
Technical specifications
In order for the car to move at different speeds, each gear in the VAZ 2101 box has its own gear ratios, which decrease as the gear increases:
- the first - 3,753;
- the second - 2,303;
- the third - 1,493;
- fourth - 1,0;
- back - 3,867.
Such combinations of gear ratios provide high traction in the first stage and maximum speed in the fourth. To reduce noise during operation of the unit, all gears of the box that work while the machine is moving forward are made with oblique teeth. Reverse gears have a straight tooth type. To ensure ease of control and gear changes with minimal stress (bumps), the forward gears are equipped with synchronizer rings.
What checkpoint to put on the VAZ 2101
On the VAZ 2101, you can put several options for the boxes. Their choice depends on the goals pursued, that is, what the owner of the car wants to achieve: more traction, dynamics, or a universal car is needed. The main difference between gearboxes is the difference in gear ratios.
From another VAZ model
Rear-wheel drive Zhiguli at the dawn of its release, in particular, VAZ 2101/02, were equipped with only one box - 2101 (there was no reversing light switch on them). A similar gearbox was installed on 21011, 21013, 2103. In 1976, a new unit 2106 appeared with other gear ratios. They were also equipped with the VAZ 2121. In 1979, another gearbox was introduced - 2105 with its gear ratios, which were intermediate between 2101 and 2106. The 2105 box could be used on any classic Zhiguli model.
What box to choose for the VAZ 2101? It is worth taking into account that the 2105 gearbox is the most versatile. When developing gearboxes, compromise parameters were selected between reliability, economy and dynamics. Therefore, if you put box 2106 on the VAZ 2101, then the dynamics of the car will improve, but the service life of the rear axle gearbox will decrease. If, on the contrary, you set the gearbox from the “six” to the “penny”, then acceleration will be slow. There is another option - to equip the VAZ 2101 with a five-speed gearbox 21074. As a result, fuel consumption will slightly decrease, the load on the engine at high speeds will also decrease. However, a “penny” engine with such a box will pull poorly on climbs - you will have to switch to fourth gear.
VAZ 2101 gearbox malfunctions
The VAZ 2101 gearbox is a reliable unit, but since many cars of this model currently have quite a lot of mileage, one should not be surprised at the manifestation of one or another breakdown. Based on this, the most common malfunctions of "penny" gearboxes should be considered.
Gears are not included
One of the malfunctions that can appear on the VAZ 2101 box is when the gears do not turn on. The problem may be due to several factors. On the classic Zhiguli models, the gears are engaged hydraulically, i.e. when the pedal is pressed, the fluid pushes the piston of the working cylinder, which leads to the movement of the clutch fork and the retraction of the disc. If a cylinder leak occurs, then the gears will not turn on, because the fork simply will not move. In this case, it is necessary to check the fluid level in the tank under the hood and inspect the system for leaks.
A rather rare case, but still taking place, is the failure of the clutch fork itself: the part can break. A possible reason is the poor quality of the product. To fix the problem, you will have to replace the plug. Do not forget also about the release bearing, which, by pressing the clutch petals, disconnects the disc from the flywheel and basket. If a bearing fails, shifting gears becomes problematic. In addition, characteristic sounds (whistling, crunching) may be present.
In addition to the reasons listed, the problem with shifting gears may be related to the gearbox synchronizers. If the gears cannot be engaged with the engine running or shifting is difficult, then synchronizers are the likely cause. If these gears are worn out, switching on may be completely impossible. To fix the problem, a mandatory replacement of parts will be required. In addition, the nuances with the functioning of the gears may be due to the wear of the clutch mechanism (basket or disc).
Knocks out the transmission
On the VAZ 2101, transmissions can sometimes turn off spontaneously, that is, they are knocked out, for which there are a number of justifications. One of the reasons is a loose flange nut on the output shaft of the gearbox. The problem manifests itself as a result of harsh operation of the gearbox, for example, when starting off sharply with a quick release of the clutch pedal, dynamic driving, and not completely disengaging the clutch. As a result of such a ride, the wear of almost all elements of the box is accelerated: synchronizer rings, gear teeth, crackers, fixing springs, bearings.
After the flange nut is released, free play (backlash) appears, which leads to shock engagement of the gears. As a result, spontaneous disengagement of both forward and reverse gears occurs. In addition, the steps can knock out when the forks responsible for gear shifting are worn. This should also include the development of seats for rods, as well as springs and balls.
Noise, crunch in the box
The occurrence of certain nuances with the VAZ 2101 gearbox indicates a malfunction of the mechanism elements (breakage or wear). Depending on the nature of the malfunction, the box may make noise, and make noise in different ways. The main causes of noise are:
- low oil level;
- bearing wear;
- large output of the main gear.
As a lubricant in the crankcase of the VAZ 2101 box, there is gear oil, which is designed to lubricate parts and reduce friction. If noise appears during the operation of the car, this may indicate a decrease in the level of lubricant or a deterioration in its anti-friction properties. A drop in the level can be the reason for the failure of the oil seal, which cannot be overlooked by the box crankcase - it will be covered in oil. If noise appears due to wear in the bearings or the main pair, it will be necessary to disassemble the box and replace the failed parts.
In addition to noise, a crunch may appear on the “penny” box over time, for example, when shifting gears from second to first. The probable cause is the failure of the synchronizer. This problem usually manifests itself with frequent upshifts to downshifts at high speed, while the manufacturer recommends performing such actions at low speed. The way out of this situation is to disassemble the box and replace the synchronizer of the corresponding gear. If a crunch appears during any shifts, then the cause is the wear of the clutch basket, which leads to incomplete gear engagement and the appearance of such a problem.
Repair of the VAZ 2101 gearbox
The need to repair the VAZ 2101 gearbox arises only when characteristic symptoms appear: noise, oil leakage, difficult switching on or knocking out gears. To understand the cause of a particular problem and identify the failed part, the gearbox has to be dismantled from the car. First of all, it is necessary to prepare the appropriate tools and materials for removing the unit and disassembling it:
- a set of socket or cap keys for 10, 12, 13;
- set of heads with extensions;
- pliers;
- Screwdriver Set;
- tweezers;
- clean rags;
- box stand;
- funnel and container for draining oil.
How to remove the checkpoint
The dismantling of the box is carried out in the following sequence:
- We install the car on a viewing hole, overpass or lift.
- We remove the negative terminal from the battery.
- We press the gear lever, insert a flat screwdriver into the hole of the locking sleeve and move it down to remove the lever.While pressing down on the shift knob, insert a flat screwdriver into the hole of the locking sleeve and slide it down to remove the lever
- We disconnect the rear mount of the exhaust system, and then the muffler itself from the exhaust pipe. To do this, remove the clamp that secures the intake pipe to the gearbox and unscrew the fasteners of the exhaust system to the exhaust manifold. After we pull the pipe down.The exhaust pipe is attached to the exhaust manifold by means of nuts - unscrew them and pull the pipe down
- We unscrew the lower fastener of the clutch mechanism housing to the engine block.We unscrew the lower fasteners of the clutch housing to the engine block
- Disconnect the ground from the clutch housing and the wire from the reverse light switch.
- We remove the spring from the clutch fork and take out the cotter pin of the pusher, and then, having unscrewed the fasteners, we remove the clutch slave cylinder.We unscrew the clutch slave cylinder from the gearbox, remove it from the fork ear and set it aside
- Having unscrewed the mount, dismantle the cardan safety bracket.To remove the gimbal, you will need to dismantle the safety bracket
- We unscrew the speedometer cable from the drive.Disconnect the speedometer cable from the speedometer drive
- To remove the rubber coupling, we put on a special clamp and tighten it, which will facilitate the dismantling and installation of the element.
- We unscrew the fasteners of the coupling and, turning the cardan, remove the bolts. We lower and set aside the cardan together with the clutch.The flexible coupling can be removed both together with the cardan shaft and separately from it. To do this, the fastening nuts are unscrewed and the bolts are removed.
- We unscrew the starter mount to the clutch mechanism housing.We unscrew the fastening of the starter to the clutch housing, for which you need a key and a head for 13
- We unscrew the bolts that hold the protective cover of the clutch housing.We unscrew the four bolts securing the crankcase cover of the clutch mechanism with a key of 10
- We unscrew the fasteners and remove the gearbox cross member, holding the unit.The gearbox is attached to the car body with a cross member - remove it
- We substitute an emphasis under the box body and, unscrewing the fasteners, dismantle the assembly together with the clutch mechanism housing, shifting it to the rear of the machine. Thus, the input shaft must come out of the front bearing located at the rear of the crankshaft.At the last stage of dismantling the gearbox, a stop is placed under the unit and the fasteners are unscrewed, after which the assembly is removed from the car
Learn more about the VAZ 2101 starter device: https://bumper.guru/klassicheskie-modeli-vaz/elektrooborudovanie/starter-vaz-2101.html
Video: dismantling the checkpoint on the "classic"
How to disassemble the checkpoint
To troubleshoot the parts of the box, it will have to be disassembled, but first you need to drain the oil. Then we proceed to disassemble the unit:
- We dismantle the fork of the clutch mechanism and the release element.
- We clean the dirt from the gearbox housing and put it vertically.
- Using a 13 head, unscrew the fasteners of the support, and then remove it.With a head of 13, we unscrew the fastening of the support and remove it
- To dismantle the speedometer drive, unscrew the nut and dismantle the mechanism.We unscrew the fastening nut of the speedometer drive and remove it from the box
- To unscrew the reverse light switch, use a 22 key.To dismantle the reverse light switch, you need a 22 wrench, with which we unscrew the element
- To remove the stop under the lever, use the key for 13.With a key of 13, we turn off the stop for moving the gear lever
- Using a 13 head, unscrew the fasteners of the rear of the gearbox.With a head of 13, we unscrew the nuts securing the rear cover of the gearbox
- To remove the back cover, move the lever to the right, which will free it from the rods.Remove the back cover by moving the shift lever to the right, which will free it from the rods
- Remove the rear cover seal.Carefully pry the back cover gasket with a screwdriver and remove it
- We dismantle the ball bearing from the end of the shaft.Remove the ball bearing from the back of the shaft.
- We remove from the shaft the gear that drives the speedometer drive, as well as the fixing element in the form of a ball.Remove the speedometer drive gear and its retainer in the form of a ball
- We unscrew the fasteners and dismantle the fork with the intermediate reverse sprocket.Remove the reverse gear and reverse gear
- We remove the sleeve from the stem, which includes reverse gear.Remove the spacer from the reverse gear
- Using a suitable tool, we dismantle the stopper and the reverse gear from the promshaft.With a puller or a suitable tool, remove the retaining ring from the intermediate shaft
- Similarly, remove the stopper from the secondary shaft and dismantle the driven sprocket.After removing the stopper, dismantle the reverse driven gear from the output shaft
- We unscrew the fasteners of the locking element and remove it. For dismantling, it is better to use an impact type screwdriver.We unscrew the fastening of the locking plate with an impact screwdriver, and then remove it
- We remove the axis of the intermediate sprocket of the reverse gear from the crankcase.We take out the axis of the intermediate gear of the reverse gear from the gearbox housing
- We unscrew the fastening of the bottom cover to the body of the unit with a head or a 10 spanner wrench, after which we remove the part.With a head or a key for 10, we unscrew the fastening of the bottom cover of the box and remove the part from the assembly
- We place the box horizontally and unscrew the fasteners of the clutch housing to the gearbox.We unscrew the fastening of the clutch housing to the gearbox housing with a head of 13 and 17
- We separate the housings and remove the seal.We disconnect the box body and the clutch mechanism, after which we remove the seal
- We unscrew the fasteners of the cover of the fixing elements of the rods.With a head of 13, we unscrew the fastenings of the cover of the rod clamps
- Having dismantled the cover, we take out the clamps from the recesses.After removing the cover, remove the balls and springs from the holes
- Remove the reverse activation fork.Removing the reverse gear fork
- We unscrew the bolt that secures the fork of switching on the first and second stages.We turn off the head on the 10th bolt of the fork of the inclusion of 1 and 2 gears
- In the process of dismantling the rods, do not forget to remove the crackers.Taking out the rods, remove the blocking crackers
- We remove the rods of the first and second gears from the housing.We take out the stem of the fork of inclusion of 1 and 2 gears
- We unscrew the fasteners holding the fork of switching on the third and fourth stages, after which we take out the stem.We unscrew the fasteners of the fork of inclusion of 3 and 4 gears and take out the stem itself
- With a key of 19, we unscrew the bolt of the front bearing, having previously pressed the couplings and engaged two gears.We unscrew the bolt securing the front bearing of the intermediate shaft by pressing the couplings and turning on two gears at the same time
- We hook the stopper with flat screwdrivers, taking out the bearing of the promval.With flat screwdrivers we hook the stopper, taking out the bearing of the promval
- We remove the rear bearing of the promshaft, after which we take the shaft itself out of the gearbox housing.We remove the rear bearing of the intermediate shaft and, tilting, take out the promshaft itself from the box body
- We remove the forks with which the gears are switched.Removing the two shift forks
- Helping with a screwdriver, dismantle the input shaft, bearing and synchronizing ring.
- On the secondary shaft there is a needle-type bearing element, we also remove it.Remove the needle bearing from the output shaft
- Using a screwdriver, remove the key, which is installed at the end of the output shaft.
- Using screwdrivers, we take out the bearing from the back of the output shaft, and then the shaft itself.We remove the rear bearing of the secondary shaft, after which we take out the shaft itself
- We carefully fix the shaft in a yew and remove the third and fourth gear synchronizer clutch and the remaining gears, synchronizer rings from it.To disassemble the secondary shaft, we clamp the mechanism in a yew and remove the synchronizer clutch of 3 and 4 gears and other parts located on the shaft
- To remove the ball joint of the lever mounted on the back of the box, disconnect the spring, unscrew the fasteners and remove the mechanism from the studs.
Read about the device of the VAZ 2101 brake system: https://bumper.guru/klassicheskie-modeli-vaz/tormoza/tormoznaya-sistema-vaz-2101.html
Video: how to disassemble the VAZ 2101 gearbox
Watch this video on YouTube
After disassembling the gearbox, it is necessary to wash all the elements in diesel fuel and perform troubleshooting. Parts must not have chips or other defects. The surfaces of rods and shafts suitable for further operation must not show signs of wear. The gearbox housing must be free of cracks, in the places where the bearing assemblies are installed, there must be no traces of rotation of the parts. The presence of bite marks, corrosion and other defects on the splines of the shafts is unacceptable. If there are minor damages, they are eliminated with fine-grained sandpaper, after which they resort to polishing. However, the best way out of the situation is to replace the damaged parts with new ones.
Bearing replacement
Any bearings in car mechanisms wear out over time, whether it be roller or ball bearings, and the gearbox is no exception. Wear leads to the appearance of play, various defects occur (shells on balls, ruptures of separators), which is unacceptable. A part such as a bearing cannot be repaired or restored and is replaced with a new one. Even if there were no signs of breakage of these elements (noise, hum), and flaws were found during the troubleshooting of gearbox parts, the bearings need to be replaced.
Input shaft bearing
If it was found that the input shaft bearing is out of order, then there is no need to completely disassemble the box to replace it. The main thing that is required is to remove the gearbox from the car. After that, having dismantled the small retaining ring, we rest against the large stopper with screwdrivers, extend the bearing and with light blows of the hammer we knock out the part from the input shaft. A new product is pressed in by applying light blows to the inner race of the bearing. During the pressing process, the input shaft must be pulled forward.
Output shaft bearing
Replacing the bearing on the secondary shaft of the VAZ 2101 gearbox will require not only removal, but also disassembly of the unit. Only in this case will access to the part be provided. The element is held on the secondary shaft by means of a key, after removing which the worn part can be dismantled. Installation of a new product is carried out in the reverse order.
Oil seal replacement
The need to replace the seals arises when oil leaks from the gearbox housing. Both the front and rear cuff can fail. In this case, the seals will need to be replaced.
Input shaft oil seal
If signs of damage to the input shaft seal were noticed, i.e., traces of lubricant leakage appeared in the area of \uXNUMXb\uXNUMXbthe crankcase of the clutch mechanism, then the probable cause is the failure of the cuff of the input shaft. An oil leak can also appear from the engine when the crankshaft rear oil seal is worn. In order to determine exactly where the oil is leaking from, you can try to find it out by smell, since motor lubricant is different from transmission lubricant.
Description and dimensions
The input shaft seal of the VAZ 2101 gearbox has the following dimensions: 28x47x8 mm, which corresponds to the inner and outer diameters, as well as the thickness of the cage.
Replacing the input shaft seal
To replace the cuff on the input shaft, you will need to dismantle the box from the machine and remove the clutch housing. Then, using the guide, we knock out the stuffing box from the body and take it out with pliers. To install a new part, you will need a suitable mandrel and a hammer.
Output shaft oil seal
When the output shaft oil seal fails, traces of oil leakage appear in the rear of the gearbox. In this case, the part needs to be replaced.
Description and dimensions
The cuff of the secondary shaft has the following dimensions: 32x56x10 mm. When buying a seal, you should pay attention to these parameters so that you do not mistakenly take a part of a different dimension.
Replacing the output shaft seal
On the secondary shaft of the VAZ 2101 box, compared to the primary one, the stuffing box changes much easier, since there is no need to dismantle the unit. The preliminary measures include the removal of the universal joint together with the elastic coupling. After that, perform the following actions:
- We dismantle the centering ring from the secondary shaft.
- We remove the locking element.
- We unscrew the nut by 30.
- Remove the flange with a puller or knock it down with a hammer.
- We pry off the old oil seal with a screwdriver and remove it from the rear of the gearbox.
- We press in a new cuff with a suitable piece of pipe.
Video: replacing the oil seal on the output shaft on the "classic"
Watch this video on YouTube
Replacement of synchronizers, gears of the gearbox VAZ 2101
There should not be any problems in replacing synchronizers, gears and other elements of the VAZ 2101 box. The main difficulty in carrying out repair work comes down to the need to dismantle the unit from the car and disassemble it. Having reached the desired element in accordance with the step-by-step instructions, it is removed and replaced with a new product, after which the box is assembled in the reverse order.
Oil in the gearbox VAZ 2101
The oil in the “penny” gearbox, like in any other vehicle unit, needs to be replaced periodically. But before you perform this procedure, you need to know when and how to replace it and what kind of lubricant to use.
What kind of oil to fill in the VAZ 2101 box
Today there is a wide choice of gear oils for cars. The difference between them lies in the additives used, or rather, in their classes. There are the following marking classes: from GL 1 to GL 5. For the VAZ 2101 gearbox, the best option is GL 5 class oil with a viscosity grade of 85W90 or 80W90. This lubricant is designed for hypoid gears, provides good lubrication of rubbing elements even under high loads. In addition, GL 5 oil can be used not only for the gearbox, but also for the rear axle. Of the manufacturers, preference should be given to those who are suitable in terms of price.
Checking the oil level
In order for the box to function properly, the oil level in the crankcase must always be optimal. It must be checked periodically. With a normal level of grease in the box, it should be flush with the bottom edge of the fill hole. The volume of oil in the crankcase of the VAZ 2101 gearbox is 1,35 liters.
How often to change the oil in a VAZ 2101 box
Transmission oil, although rarely changed, you still need to know when this procedure is necessary. As a rule, on the "classic" it is produced after 40-60 thousand km. run or after 3 years from the date of filling.
How to drain oil
To drain the oil from the VAZ 2101 gearbox, you will need a hex wrench and a suitable container, for example, a cut plastic bottle. Using a hexagon, unscrew the drain plug, which is located in the bottom cover of the crankcase of the box, and drain the oil.
The drain plug is wiped from dirt and wrapped in place. In addition, you need to pay attention to the drained oil and, if metal dust is present in it, you will need to repair the box as soon as possible.
How to pour oil
To fill the lubricant into the gearbox, it is necessary to unscrew the filler plug with a 17 key and clean it from contamination. Oil is poured in the required volume using a special syringe. Many do not measure the required volume of lubricant, but simply fill it in until it starts to flow back. After pouring, immediately wrap the cork in place. Instead of a syringe, you can use homemade devices if you have the desire and time to make them.
Video: oil change in the gearbox on the "classic"
Watch this video on YouTube
Why do you need a rocker on a gearbox
The purpose of the backstage in any gearbox is the connection of the gear lever with the rod leading to the gearbox. Despite the fact that this mechanism has a long service life, parts wear out over time. As a rule, problems are possible no earlier than after 100 thousand km. run. The only thing that may require more frequent replacement is the rubber and plastic elements of the gear lever shaft, which are used to connect it to the lever on the box.
How to remove the wings on the VAZ 2101
To dismantle the backstage (short lever located on the box) on the VAZ 2101, you will need to remove the long gear lever and the protective pad located on the cabin floor. To remove the mechanism, it is necessary to remove the rubber cuff, and then unscrew the fasteners of the ball joint of the lever. During extraction, you need to be careful so that the release spring does not fall asleep. If it is not possible to remove the backstage in this way, it will be necessary to dismantle the back cover of the box, which will take a lot of time and effort. The backstage is removed, as a rule, during the repair of the box, and even then not always.
How to put the curtain
Installation of the gear control mechanism is carried out in reverse order. The link is sealed with a gasket and, if the seal is in poor condition, it is better to replace it, which will prevent dirt from entering the box and possible oil leakage.
Backstage adjustment
The backstage on the VAZ 2101 gearbox has a simple design and no adjustment work is required when repairing or replacing a part.
Maintenance and repair of the VAZ 2101 gearbox is quite within the power of every car owner, due to the simple design of the mechanism. The only thing is that it is advisable to call an assistant to carry out activities related to the dismantling of the assembly, since the box is a rather heavy mechanism and it will not be easy and unsafe to remove it from the car on your own. With proper and timely maintenance, the checkpoint will not cause any problems for a long time.