What my car tells me - learning to understand the sounds of driving!

Hearing something whistle, squeak or rattle in the car, you should literally prick up your ears. A trained ear could prevent dangerous situations, costly repairs or car breakdowns. In this article, you will read how to identify the most common driving sounds.

Systematic narrowing

In a moving car there is movement in every nook and cranny . The engine is running, the gears are shifting, the wheels are rolling down the road, the suspension is bouncing, the exhaust is swinging on the bottom, blowing off the exhaust gases. Systematic action is required to identify these specific driving sounds. If possible, disable as many systems as possible to track down the cause of the noise like a detective.

Therefore, the most important condition of your search is unhindered driving . Ideally, find a place where other road users are not expected. In any case, it should be an asphalt road. Off-road bumps and bumps can make it unnecessarily difficult to find. In addition, the car does not hold speed enough when driving over potholes.

If the noise occurs while driving, press the clutch to disengage it. If the noise persists, the clutch and gear can be excluded from the search. Now accelerate again and, if it is a long straight road free of other vehicles, turn off the engine while driving.
Press the clutch and turn it off. The car is now rolling on its own momentum. If a driving sounds are still heard, you can narrow your search down to suspension.

If the noise disappears, apply the brake with the engine off. Note: you may need to apply extra force as the brake assist system does not receive any pressure when the engine is off. In cars with power steering, the steering will also be significantly harder without the engine. The brakes may make grinding noises or a constant squeak while driving.

Stop the car. Let the engine idle and turn it on loudly a few times. If an unusual noise is heard when the engine is idling, the problem can be traced to the engine, drive, water pump, or alternator.

Performing this procedure allows you to get even closer to the cause of the noise.

What can cause noise while driving?

A list with the most common noises, their causes and effects is given below to help identify driving sounds correctly.

Sounds before leaving Creaking and gurgling sound when entering the car: Defective shock absorber; Replace . We highly recommend switching to Monroe shocks.

Soft hum when turning the car key: normal sound of the fuel pump. Ignore .

A soft click when starting the car, possibly dimming the dashboard lights at the same time: ground cable corrosion. Remove, clean, if necessary replace and reinstall .

Rattle when starting the car: something then it rattles in the belt drive. Turn off the engine and check .

Loud engine squeak: worn out alternator or water pump V-belt. Just replace .

The rattling does not come from the engine : alternator bearings. Remove the alternator and check if necessary replace bearings .

Soft and constant squeak when the car is idling . Water pump defective. Replace .

Driving sounds during the first few meters Rattling sound when starting the engine: malfunction of the hydraulic distributor pusher or lack of engine oil. Check the oil level. If the noise stops after a few minutes, ignore it. (assuming the oil level is correct). If the noise persists, valve lifters are worn out and need to be replaced .

Roaring noise when accelerating: exhaust system defective. Full or partial replacement .

Noises while driving Constant rhythmic grinding: clutch is possible. Click on the clutch. If the noise stops, the clutch is worn. Replace .

Constant quiet squeak while driving: brake calipers require lubrication. Disassemble the brake pads and apply copper paste. ( Please note: DO NOT USE machine lubricant or oil UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES!!! )

Soft whistling sound while driving: the gearbox may be running dry. As described , check the engine idling and look for oil leaks .

Metallic grinding when braking: the brake pads are completely worn out!! Ideally, you should stop the car and tow it. Otherwise: drive to the garage as soon as possible. Drive slowly and avoid braking .

Knocking and rattling when steering: ball joint failure. Replace immediately: vehicle is no longer safe to drive .

Rattling sound when driving over potholes: faulty tie rods, anti-roll bars or shock absorbers. Check and replace them in the garage .

Twitching knocks when changing load: engine rubber mounts worn out. Replace .

Buzzing noise when steering: wheel bearing defective. Replace .Wheel bearing

Indistinct rattle and rattle when driving: maybe the bumpers of the car are loose. Check if all body parts are in place .

Hissing sound when the engine is running: thin crack in the exhaust manifold. Part to be replaced .

Hissing sound when turning off the engine: overpressure in the cooling system. Wait until the pressure drops. Then inspect the engine. Possible causes: Faulty radiator, thermostat or cylinder head gasket, or punctured hose .

Tire screeching around corners: tire pressure is too low. The tire may be too old or too worn. .

Loud Tire Rolling Sound: the tires are too old and the tires are too hard. The tire may have been installed incorrectly (against the direction of rolling). The arrows on the tire must always point in the direction of rolling. .

Noises from the cabin Shrieking squeak: The indoor fan impeller is running dry. Disassemble and lube. Note: If the fan impeller gets stuck, the cable in the fan motor may catch fire. Check the smoke! Turn off the fan and open all windows .

Grinding driving sounds when shifting gears: the pedals or Bowden cables have run out. The pedals can be lubricated. Bowden cables must be replaced. Please note: If this is ignored for too long, the Bowden cable may break! In this case, water has penetrated the cable and corrosion has caused the Bowden cable to swell. .

Seat squeak: the rails or seat mechanics are dry. It is necessary to dismantle the seat and lubricate the parts .

Rattle in the dashboard: bad contact. Finding this can be a big job. Knocking in different parts of the dashboard when the engine is running .

Windshield wipers screech: worn out wiper blades. Replace with new and high quality wiper blades .

Noises from underneath Loud knocking when driving, especially when changing load: the rubber support of the exhaust pipe loosened. Check and replace. Alternative Causes: Loose covers or housings in the engine .

Chattering and rolling while driving: Broken catalytic converter ceramic core . These special driving sounds first become louder and then gradually decrease until they disappear completely. In this case, the catalytic converter is empty and this will be detected at the next vehicle check. .

Knock when engine is running: weakened catalytic converter heat shield. This can often be fixed with one or two spot welds. .

The roaring sound gradually gets louder: exhaust leaking . If the exhaust sound gets louder as the RPMs increase, probably a defective muffler . If the engine sound becomes very loud, the flexible exhaust pipe is often damaged. To be sure, the exhaust must be fully checked. As a rule, soot spots are visible in the places of leaks. If perforations are found in the center of the muffler or in the connections, the exhaust can be temporarily covered with a simple sleeve. Flexible pipes and end silencers will eventually need to be replaced . These parts are usually quite cheap.

Tip: find an experienced passenger!

The problem with most operating noises in a car is that they come on gradually. It makes you get used to suspicious driving sounds. So it's always a good idea to have someone join you on your trip and ask them if they notice anything special. This avoids operational blindness and costly damage due to incremental defects.
Especially older cars become "talkative" and tell you very reliably which parts need to be replaced. This allows the "old treasure" to remain movable once you've learned to pay attention to warning sounds.