The device and maintenance of the distributor of the car VAZ 2106
Content
The distributor can be safely considered an outdated element of the sparking system, since it is absent on modern cars. The functions of the main ignition distributor (the technical name of the distributor) of gasoline engines are now performed by electronics. The specified part was massively used on passenger cars of past generations, including the VAZ 2106. The minus of switchgears is frequent breakdowns, a clear plus is ease of repair.
Purpose and types of distributors
The main distributor of the "six" is located on a horizontal platform made to the left of the engine valve cover. The shaft of the unit, ending with splines, enters the drive gear inside the cylinder block. The latter is rotated by the timing chain and simultaneously rotates the oil pump shaft.
The distributor performs 3 functions in the ignition system:
- at the right time, it breaks the electrical circuit of the primary winding of the coil, which causes a high voltage pulse to form in the secondary;
- alternately directs the discharges to the candles according to the order of operation of the cylinders (1-3-4-2);
- automatically adjusts the ignition timing when the crankshaft speed changes.
The spark is supplied and the air-fuel mixture is ignited before the piston reaches the upper extreme point, so that the fuel has time to fully burn out. At idle, the advance angle is 3-5 degrees, with an increase in the number of revolutions of the crankshaft, this figure should increase.
Various modifications of the "sixes" were completed with different types of distributors:
- VAZ 2106 and 21061 were equipped with engines with a working volume of 1,6 and 1,5 liters, respectively. Due to the height of the block, distributors with a long shaft and a mechanical contact system were installed on the model.
- VAZ 21063 cars were equipped with a 1,3 liter engine with a low cylinder block. The distributor is a contact type with a shortened shaft, the difference for models 2106 and 21063 is 7 mm.
- The updated VAZ 21065 series was equipped with contactless distributors with a long stem, working in conjunction with an electronic ignition system.
The difference in the length of the drive shaft, depending on the height of the cylinder block, does not allow the use of the VAZ 2106 part on a 1,3 liter engine - the distributor simply will not sit in the socket. Putting a spare part with a short shaft on a “clean six” will also not work - the splined part will not reach the gear. The rest of the filling of contact distributors is the same.
Maintenance of a contact type distributor
In order to independently repair the distributor, it is necessary to understand its structure and the purpose of all parts. The algorithm of the mechanical distributor is as follows:
- The rotating roller periodically presses the cam against the spring-loaded moving contact, as a result, the low voltage circuit is broken.The gap between the contacts appears as a result of pressing the cam on the spring-loaded pusher
- At the moment of rupture, the secondary winding of the coil generates a pulse with a potential of 15-18 kilovolts. Through an insulated wire of large cross section, current is supplied to the central electrode located in the cover of the distributor.
- A distribution contact rotating under the cover (colloquially, a slider) transmits an impulse to one of the side electrodes of the cover. Then, through a high-voltage cable, current is supplied to the spark plug - the fuel mixture ignites in the cylinder.
- With the next revolution of the distributor shaft, the sparking cycle is repeated, only voltage is applied to the other cylinder.
In fact, 2 electrical circuits pass through the distributor - low and high voltage. The first is periodically broken by a contact group, the second switches to the combustion chambers of different cylinders.
Find out why there is no spark on the VAZ-2106: https://bumper.guru/klassicheskie-modeli-vaz/elektrooborudovanie/zazhiganie/net-iskry-vaz-2106.html
Now it’s worth considering the functions of the small parts that make up the distributor:
- a clutch mounted on the roller (under the body) protects the internal elements from ingress of motor lubricant from the power unit;
- the octane-corrector wheel, located on the tide of the body, is intended for manual adjustment of the spark advance angle;Manual advance regulator found on first generation distributors
- the centrifugal regulator, located on the support platform at the top of the roller, also corrects the lead angle depending on the speed of rotation of the crankshaft;
- the resistor included in the high voltage circuit is engaged in the suppression of radio interference;
- a movable plate with a bearing serves as a mounting platform for the contact group of the breaker;
- a capacitor connected in parallel with the contacts solves 2 problems - it reduces sparking on the contacts and significantly enhances the impulse generated by the coil.
An important point should be noted: a manual octane corrector is found only on older versions of the R-125 distributors. Subsequently, the design changed - instead of a wheel, an automatic vacuum corrector with a membrane acting from engine vacuum appeared.
The chamber of the new octane corrector is connected by a tube to the carburetor, the rod is connected to the movable plate, where the breaker contacts are located. The magnitude of the vacuum and the amplitude of the membrane operation depends on the opening angle of the throttle valves, that is, on the current load on the power unit.
A little about the operation of a centrifugal regulator located on the upper horizontal platform. The mechanism consists of a central lever and two weights with springs. When the shaft spins up to high speeds, the weights under the action of centrifugal forces diverge to the sides and turn the lever. Breaking the circuit and the formation of a discharge begins earlier.
Typical malfunctions
Ignition distributor problems manifest themselves in one of two ways:
- The engine is unstable - vibrates, "troits", periodically stalls. A sharp press on the gas pedal causes a pop in the carburetor and a deep dip, accelerating dynamics and engine power are lost.
- The power unit does not start, although sometimes it “picks up”. Possible shots in the silencer or air filter.
In the second case, the fault is easier to detect. The list of reasons leading to a complete failure is relatively small:
- the capacitor or resistor located in the slider has become unusable;
- breakage of the wire of the low voltage circuit passing inside the housing;
- the cover of the distributor cracked, where the high-voltage wires from the candles are connected;
- the plastic slider failed - a rotor with a movable contact, screwed to the upper support platform and closing the centrifugal regulator;
- jammed and broke the main shaft.
There are many more reasons for unstable work, so it is more difficult to diagnose them:
- cover insulation breakdown, abrasion of its electrodes or central carbon contact;
- the working surfaces of the breaker contacts are badly burnt or clogged;
- the bearing is worn out and loosened, on which the base plate with the contact group rotates;
- the springs of the centrifugal mechanism have stretched;
- the diaphragm of the automatic octane corrector failed;
- water has entered the housing.
The resistor and capacitor are checked with a tester, the broken insulation of the cover and the slider is detected without any instruments. Burnt contacts are clearly visible to the naked eye, as are stretched weight springs. More diagnostic methods are described in the following sections of the publication.
Tools and preparation for disassembly
To independently repair the VAZ 2106 distributor, you need to prepare a simple set of tools:
- 2 flat screwdrivers with a narrow slot - regular and shortened;
- a set of small open end wrenches 5-13 mm in size;
- pliers, round-nose pliers;
- technical tweezers;
- probe 0,35 mm;
- hammer and thin metal tip;
- flat file, fine sandpaper;
- rags.
If you plan to completely disassemble the distributor, it is recommended to stock up on WD-40 spray lubricant. It will help displace excess moisture and facilitate the unwinding of small threaded connections.
During the repair process, additional devices and materials may be needed - a multimeter, a vise, pliers with pointed jaws, engine oil, and so on. You don’t have to create special conditions to carry out work; you can repair the distributor in an ordinary garage or in an open area.
So that during assembly there are no problems with setting the ignition, it is recommended to fix the position of the slider before removing the element according to the instructions:
- Snap off the clips and dismantle the cover, move it to the side along with the wires.Spring latches of the lid are not always easy to unlock, it is better to help with a flat screwdriver
- With the gearshift lever in neutral position, briefly turn on the starter, watching the distributor. The goal is to turn the slider perpendicular to the motor.
- Put marks on the valve cover of the engine corresponding to the position of the slider. Now you can safely unscrew and remove the distributor.Before dismantling the distributor, place risks with chalk in front of the slider 2 to remember its position
To dismantle the distributor, you need to disconnect the vacuum tube from the membrane unit, disconnect the coil wire and unscrew the only fastening nut with a 13 mm wrench.
Lid and slider problems
The part is made of durable dielectric plastic, in the upper part there are outputs - 1 central and 4 side ones. Outside, high-voltage wires are connected to the sockets, from the inside, the terminals are in contact with a rotating slider. The central electrode is a spring-loaded carbon rod in contact with the brass pad of the rotor.
A high-potential pulse from the coil is fed to the central electrode, passes through the contact pad of the slider and the resistor, then goes to the desired cylinder through the side terminal and armored wire.
To identify problems with the cover, the distributor does not need to be removed:
- Using a screwdriver, open the 2 steel clips and remove the part.
- Disconnect all cables by pulling them out of their sockets.
- Carefully inspect the lid body for cracks. If any are found, the detail definitely changes.
- Examine the condition of the internal terminals, wipe graphite dust from the walls. Too worn pads can make poor contact with the runner and burn. Cleaning will help temporarily, it is better to change the spare part.
- The spring-loaded "coal" in the center should move freely in the nest, cracks and chips are unacceptable.Graphite rod provides reliable contact between the runner and the center wire from the coil
Do not be afraid to mix up high voltage cables when disconnecting. Cylinder numbers are marked on top of the cover, which is easy to navigate.
An insulation breakdown between two contacts is diagnosed as follows:
- Turn out any candle (or take a spare), remove the cap and disconnect all the armored wires, except for the central one.
- Fix the candle to the mass of the car and connect it with the second wire to the first side electrode on the cover.
- Spin the starter. If a spark appears on the spark plug electrodes, there is a breakdown between the side and main terminals. Repeat the operation on all 4 contacts.Insulation breakdown usually occurs between the two electrodes of the cover - the central one and one of the side ones.
Slider malfunctions are similar - abrasion of the contact pads, cracks and breakdown of the insulating material. In addition, a resistor is installed between the contacts of the rotor, which often fails. If the element burns out, the high-voltage circuit breaks, the spark is not supplied to the candles. If black marks are found on the surface of the part, its diagnostics are necessary.
Important note: when the slider becomes unusable, there is no spark on all candles. Insulation breakdown is diagnosed using a high-voltage cable coming from the coil. Pull the end of the wire out of the cover, bring it to the central contact pad of the slider and turn the crankshaft with a starter. A discharge appeared - it means that the insulation is broken.
Checking the resistor is simple - measure the resistance between the terminals with a multimeter. An indicator from 5 to 6 kOhm is considered normal, if the value is greater or less, replace the resistance.
Video: how to check the functionality of the slider
Contact group troubleshooting
Since a spark jumps between the contact surfaces when opening, the working planes gradually wear out. As a rule, a ledge is formed on the movable terminal, and a recess is formed on the static terminal. As a result, the surfaces do not fit well, the spark discharge weakens, the motor begins to “troit”.
A detail with a small development is restored by stripping:
- Remove the distributor cover without disconnecting the cables.
- Using a screwdriver, push the contacts apart and slide a flat file between them. The task is to remove the build-up of the movable terminal and align the static terminal as much as possible.
- After stripping with a file and fine sandpaper, wipe the group with a rag or blow it with a compressor.
In stores, you can find spare parts with upgraded contacts - holes are made in the center of the working surfaces. They do not form depressions and growths.
If the terminals are worn to the limit, it is better to change the group. Sometimes the surfaces are deformed to such an extent that it is not possible to adjust the gap - the probe is inserted between the bump and the recess, too much clearance remains at the edges.
The operation is performed directly on the car, without dismantling the distributor itself:
- Disconnect and remove the wire cover. It is not necessary to turn the starter and adjust the labels.
- Loosen the screw securing the wire with a short screwdriver and disconnect the terminal.
- Unscrew the 2 screws holding the part to the metal plate, remove the breaker.The contact group is screwed with two screws, the third is used to fasten the terminal
Installation of contacts is not difficult - screw the new group with screws and connect the wire. Next is the gap adjustment of 0,3-0,4 mm, performed using a feeler gauge. It is necessary to turn the starter a little so that the cam presses on the plate, then adjust the gap and fix the element with the adjusting screw.
If the work planes burn too quickly, it is worth checking the capacitor. Perhaps it is dry and does not perform its function well. The second option is the low quality of the product, where the opening surfaces are offset or made of ordinary metal.
Bearing replacement
In distributors, a roller bearing is used for the correct operation of the octane corrector. The element is aligned with the horizontal platform where the contact group is attached. To the protrusion of this platform is attached a rod coming from a vacuum membrane. When the vacuum from the carburetor begins to move the diaphragm, the rod turns the pad along with the contacts, correcting the moment of sparking.
Check out the VAZ 2106 carburetor device: https://bumper.guru/klassicheskie-modeli-vaz/toplivnaya-sistema/karbyurator-vaz-2106.html
During operation, play occurs on the bearing, which increases with wear. The platform, together with the contact group, begins to dangle, opening occurs spontaneously, and with a small gap. As a result, the VAZ 2106 engine is very unstable in any mode, power is lost, and gasoline consumption increases. The bearing is not repaired, only replaced.
The backlash of the bearing assembly is determined visually. It is enough to open the distributor cover and shake the contact breaker up and down by hand.
The replacement is performed in the following order:
- Remove the distributor from the car by disconnecting the coil wire and unscrewing the fastening nut with a 13 mm wrench. Do not forget to prepare for dismantling - turn the slider and make chalk marks, as described above.
- Dismantle the contact group by unscrewing 3 screws - two fixing screws, the third one holds the terminal.
- Using a hammer and a thin tip, knock out the stopper rod from the oil slinger. Remove the latter from the shaft without losing the second washer.To remove the vacuum block, you need to pull out the shaft, remove the retaining ring and unlock the rod
- Remove the shaft along with the slider from the housing.
- Disconnect the octane corrector rod from the moving platform and unscrew the membrane unit.
- Prying the plate on both sides with screwdrivers, pull out the worn bearing.After dismantling the shaft and the vacuum unit, the bearing can be easily removed with a screwdriver
Installation of a new element is carried out in the reverse order. Before installing the inside of the distributor, it is advisable to thoroughly clean it. If rust has formed on the roller, remove it with sandpaper and lubricate the clean surface with engine oil. When you insert the shaft into the housing sleeve, do not forget to adjust the contacts on the feeler gauge.
When installing the distributor, keep the original position of the body and slider. Start the engine, loosen the element fixing nut, and rotate the body to achieve the most stable operation. Tighten the mount and check the "six" on the go.
Video: how to change a bearing without marking
Watch this video on YouTube
Other faults
When the engine categorically refuses to start, you should check the performance of the capacitor. The technique is simple: seat an assistant behind the wheel, remove the distributor cap and give the command to rotate the starter. If a barely noticeable spark jumps between the contacts, or one is not observed at all, feel free to buy and install a new capacitor - the old one can no longer provide the required discharge energy.
The owners of the VAZ 2106 with a contact distributor are also annoyed by other minor troubles:
- The springs holding the weights of the centrifugal corrector are stretched. There are small dips and jerks at the time of acceleration of the car.
- Similar symptoms are observed in the case of critical wear of the vacuum diaphragm.
- Sometimes the car stalls for no apparent reason, as if the main ignition wire was pulled out, and then it starts and runs normally. The problem lies in the internal wiring, which has broken and periodically breaks the power circuit.
It is not necessary to change stretched springs. Unscrew the 2 screws securing the slider and, using pliers, bend the brackets where the springs are fixed. A torn membrane cannot be repaired - you need to remove the assembly and install a new one. Diagnosis is simple: disconnect the vacuum tube from the carburetor and draw air through it with your mouth. A working diaphragm will begin to rotate the plate with contacts by means of a thrust.
Video: complete disassembly of the ignition distributor VAZ 2101-2107
Watch this video on YouTube
Device and repair of contactless distributor
The device of the distributor, acting in conjunction with the electronic ignition system, is identical to the design of a mechanical distributor. There is also a plate with a bearing, a slider, a centrifugal regulator and a vacuum corrector. Only instead of the contact group and the capacitor, a magnetic Hall sensor is installed plus a metal screen mounted on the shaft.
How does a contactless distributor work:
- The Hall sensor and the permanent magnet are located on a movable platform, a screen with slots rotates between them.
- When the screen covers the magnet field, the sensor is inactive, the voltage at the terminals is zero.
- As the roller rotates and passes through the slit, the magnetic field reaches the sensor surface. A voltage appears at the output of the element, which is transmitted to the electronic unit - the switch. The latter gives a signal to the coil that produces a discharge that enters the distributor slider.
The VAZ 2106 electronic system uses a different type of coil that can work in conjunction with a switch. It is also impossible to convert a conventional distributor to a contact one - it will not be possible to install a rotating screen.
The non-contact distributor is more reliable in operation - the Hall sensor and the bearing become unusable much less often due to the lack of mechanical load. A sign of a meter failure is the absence of a spark and a complete failure of the ignition system. Replacement is easy - you need to disassemble the distributor, unscrew 2 screws securing the sensor and pull the connector out of the groove.
Malfunctions of other elements of the distributor are similar to the old contact version. Troubleshooting methods are detailed in previous sections.
Video: replacing the Hall sensor on classic VAZ models
Watch this video on YouTube
About the drive mechanism
To transmit torque to the distributor shaft on the "six", a helical gear is used, rotated by the timing chain (colloquially - "boar"). Since the element is located horizontally, and the distributor roller is vertical, there is an intermediary between them - the so-called fungus with oblique teeth and internal slots. This gear simultaneously turns 2 shafts - the oil pump and the distributor.
Learn more about the timing chain drive device: https://bumper.guru/klassicheskie-modeli-vaz/grm/kak-vystavit-metki-grm-na-vaz-2106.html
Both transmission links - "boar" and "fungus" are designed for a long service life and are changed during the overhaul of the engine. The first part is removed after disassembling the timing chain drive, the second is pulled out through the upper hole in the cylinder block.
The VAZ 2106 distributor, equipped with a contact breaker, is a rather complex unit, consisting of many small parts. Hence the unreliability in operation and the constant failures of the sparking system. The non-contact version of the distributor creates problems much less often, but in terms of performance it still falls short of modern ignition modules, which have no moving parts.