Motorcycle Device

Engine oil change

Aging engine oil: additives and lubricity degrade over time. Dirt builds up in the oil circuit. It's time to change the oil.

Draining the motorcycle

Engine oil is one of the "wear parts" of a gasoline engine. Over time, mileage, heat load, and driving style will degrade the lubricating properties of the oil and its additives. If you want to enjoy your engine for a long time, change the oil at the intervals specified by your car manufacturer in your service manual.

5 deadly sins you shouldn't commit while emptying

  • NOT drain oil immediately after driving: risk of burns!
  • NOT replace WITHOUT changing the filter: the old filter can quickly clog new oil.
  • NOT drain the oil down the drain: oil is a special waste!
  • NOT reuse the old o-ring: oil may drip and contact the rear wheel.
  • NOT pour car oil into motorcycle engines!

Engine oil change - let's get started

01 - Remove the filling screw

Changing engine oil - Moto-Station

Run the motorcycle until it gets hot (not hot) before changing the oil. Protect the garage floor with a large rag that can absorb some splashes. Depending on the motorcycle model, first unscrew the drain plug from the problematic plastic guards. So that you don't have to constantly take your mother's salad bowls, treat yourself to a pan for collecting oil. For oil to flow out of the engine from below, sufficient air must be drawn in from the top. Now unscrew the oil filler plug.

02 - Let the oil drain

Changing engine oil - Moto-Station

Now loosen the drain screw with an Allen ratchet and slowly unscrew it. To prevent oil, which may still be very hot, from dripping onto your hands, make the last few turns with a rag.

For a complete oil change, the oil filter must be replaced. There are two types of filters. The first type of filter looks like a tin can and already has a housing. The rest of the filters look like a mini-accordion folded and consist of filter paper. These filters must be integrated into the housing on the motor side.

03 - Remove the oil filter with the housing

Changing engine oil - Moto-Station

Use a ratchet oil filter wrench to make it easier to loosen the box filter.

This new filter has an O-ring which must be coated with a thin coat of oil prior to assembly.

Changing engine oil - Moto-Station

Before installing a new oil filter, make sure that it is identical to the filter being replaced (height, diameter, sealing surface, threads, if applicable, etc.). Tighten the new oil filter cartridge securely according to the instructions in the logbook. Decisive instructions belong to the vehicle manufacturer.

Changing engine oil - Moto-Station

04 - Oil filter without housing

Changing engine oil - Moto-Station

The mini-accordion-like filters are housed in a housing held by a center screw or screws located at the edge.

In almost all cases, this shroud is located at the front of the engine. After unscrewing the cover (note: draining residual oil), remove the old filter (note the installation position), clean the housing and install the new filter in the correct orientation.

Depending on the manufacturer, the gaskets and O-rings are located on the body, cover or center screw; you need to replace them all (see our mechanical seal tips for details.

After closing the housing and tightening the screws with a torque wrench, remove all oil stains from the engine with a cleaner. Take this cleanup seriously. Otherwise, foul-smelling gases will be emitted when the engine is hot and very stubborn stains will form.

05 - Fill with oil

Changing engine oil - Moto-Station

After replacing the O-ring and tightening the drain screw in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, new oil can be refilled.

Changing engine oil - Moto-Station

Refer to your vehicle manual for the correct amount, viscosity and specifications. To save a lot of work, also quickly replace the filler screw O-ring.

06 - Installation of the Stahlbus drain valve

Changing engine oil - Moto-Station

To make your life easier at your next oil change and for cleaner operation, install a Stahlbus drain valve instead of the original drain screw. Now there will be an opportunity to do this, and you will thus improve your motorcycle a little.

To drain, if you have a Stahlbus drain valve, all you have to do is unscrew its protective cap and snap the hose quick connector onto the valve. This locking device opens the valve and allows the oil to be drained into a designated container.

When you remove the hose connector, the valve closes automatically and all you have to do is screw on the protective cap. It couldn't be simpler: this way you preserve the crankcase threads and no longer need to replace the O-ring. You will find our complete range of Stahlbus drain valves at www.louis-moto.fr under My Motorcycle.

07 - Checking the oil level

Changing engine oil - Moto-Station

All you have to do is tidy up the garage, dispose of the used oil properly (use an oil stain remover like brake cleaner to remove unpleasant oil stains on the floor), and finally, you can sit back in the saddle!

As a safety precaution, check the oil level again before riding, especially if your engine has an oil filter built into an auxiliary housing.

Briefly about oil

Changing engine oil - Moto-Station

Nothing works without oil: the friction of pistons, bearing surfaces and gears will destroy any engine in the blink of an eye.

Therefore, it is very important to check the oil level in your two-wheeled vehicle and change it regularly. In fact, the oil ages, clogs due to metal abrasion and combustion residues, and gradually loses its lubricity.

Of course, the oil must have the viscosity prescribed by the vehicle manufacturer and must be specially formulated for motorcycles or scooters: indeed, motorcycle engines run at a significantly higher speed. In most cases, their transmissions also need to be lubricated with engine oil. The clutch (in an oil bath) also works in oil. The appropriate additives provide good shear, pressure and temperature stability and wear protection. Please note: automotive oils contain additional lubricants and are designed for dry clutch engines. With this type of product, clutches in an oil bath can slip.

Choose the right oil: Synthetic oils outperform mineral oils in high temperature performance, cold start protection, reduced friction and protection against deposits. Therefore, they are especially suitable for use in sports and for custom-made motors. However, not all engines, especially clutches, are capable of high performance oils. Please consult an authorized garage in advance. If you want to change it and your motorcycle has high mileage, it is important to first clean and maintain it.

Another solution is to use a semi-synthetic oil, which is well tolerated by most clutches. Modern motor oils are also often produced through a hydrocarbon synthesis process: these base oils are produced chemically in a refinery using a catalytic hydrocracking process. Their quality has been greatly improved and they are more effective than mineral oils, especially in terms of creep characteristics as well as thermal and chemical load capacity. They have other benefits: they lubricate the engine faster after starting, keep the engine clean, and better protect engine components.

For motorcycles built before 1970 we do not recommend the use of synthetic oils. There are multi-grade and multi-grade oils specially formulated for older motorcycles. Finally, remember that whichever oil you choose, you must always warm up the engine carefully. The engine will thank you and last longer.

Engine oil classifications

  • API - American motor oil classificationUsed since about 1941. Classes "S" refer to gasoline engines, classes "C" to diesel engines. The second letter indicates the performance level. Applicable standards: SF since 1980, SG since 1988, SH since 1993, SJ since 1996, SL since 2001, etc. API CF is a standard for automotive diesel engine oils. API grades for two-stroke oils (letter "T") are no longer used. Transmission and driveshaft oils are graded G4 to G5.
  • JASO (Japan Automobil Standards Organization) - Japanese classification of motor oils. JASO T 903 is currently the most important classification for motorcycle engine oils in the world. Based on API requirements, the JASO classification defines additional properties that, among other things, ensure proper oil performance in clutches and wet sump lubricated transmissions. Oils are classified into the JASO MA or JASO MB categories based on their clutch friction characteristics. The JASO MA class, and currently the JASO MA-2 class, has a higher coefficient of friction. Oils corresponding to this classification have a particularly high compatibility with clutches.
  • ACEA - European motor oil classificationUsed since 1996. Classes A1 to A3 describe oils for gasoline engines, classes B1 to B4 for diesel car engines.
  • Viscosity (SAE - Society of Automotive Engineers)Describes the viscosity of the oil and the temperature range in which it can be used. As for modern multigrade oils: the lower the W ("winter") number, the more fluid the oil is in cold weather, and the higher the W without W, the greater the lubricating film resistant to high operating temperatures.

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