3 times OIX 3D is three times three

Who hasn't played tic-tac-toe at least once? This extremely simple game, which does not require a lot of equipment or great skills, has been entertaining not only children for centuries. However, today we will look at it a little differently ...

Few excavation sites

Claudia Zaslavskaya in her book defends the thesis that the ancestor of the game known to us today as "tic-tac-toe" was played in ancient Egypt more than 3300 years ago. Ancient R.is also changing they played the gameLooks like ?circles and ts? namedTerniLapilli (three stones).

The game of tic-tac-toe was first mentioned in print in 1864. The rules of this game were also taught the first computers (interesting fact: to the cinema from 1983 главный геройovercomes military A computer, having start commissioningnuclear missilescompulsion it continue I play it game against each other).

Tic Tac Toe (known mainly as Tic Tac Toe in the US and Canada) has longgame especially recommended childrenиз-заEasy to understandrules and simple strategy. New versions of the gamewhich they resist themselves on the same rules, most often they simply offer more combinations. There are 4×4 versions (called Connect Four in English), as well as 5×5. (on the same board or without rigid frames on a sheet of a notebook in a cage).

However, the most interesting thing is the spatial versions of this game? and this will be discussed in this article.

OIX IN THREE DIMENSIONS

In order to significantly increase the number of combinations, even better results were achieved thanks to the parallel playing of the game on several boards at the same time, where the winning lines can be placed not only in separate planes, but also vertically and even diagonally. between levels. Depending on the expected difficulty, the game can be played on 3, 4 or 5 boards with 9, 16 or 25 fields stacked on top of each other. In a 4 board game, the line length must be 4 characters and 5 characters respectively.

The easiest way to play these three-dimensional versions of the game is on boards drawn simply on a piece of paper (to make it easier, I also attach their diagrams to the article on the Young Technician website). I used to like to play this game with my friends at school breaks? understanding of specific spatial combinations shown in only two dimensions did not cause any serious problems for me or my colleagues.

It is much easier for novice players to play on real boards, where everything is really visible, than on some kind of drawings. It is for them that the spatial maps described later in this article are intended. Although some of them probably have their analogues somewhere, once mass-produced, all subsequent ones were developed and tested by the author specifically for individual production.

WHEELS AND WITHOUT WHEELS

When implementing spatial games of this type, a specific task is to find the appropriate number of spatial “circles and crosses”. I write in quotation marks, because most often circles and crosses are replaced with other figures, checkers, two-color glass balls, beads, and similar “convenient” accessories. I think I added one more good tip to them, but more on that later in the article.

For each variant of the game, depending on the number and type of boards used, we need the following number of pieces:

3×3: 5 tbsp. ? X? i 4 pcs. ?SHE?

4×4: 8 tbsp. ? X? i 8 pcs. ?SHE?

5×5: 13 tbsp. ? X? i 12 pcs. ?SHE?

3×3×3: 14 pieces ? X? i 13 pcs. ?ISLAND?

4×4×4: 32 pieces ? X? i 32 pcs. ?ISLAND?

5×5×5: 63 pieces ? X? i 62 pcs. ?ISLAND?

Of course, you can also play games with more fields. Is it not at all difficult to derive the formula for calculating the number of risers required then? I recommend posting it on the Young Technician forum - I think the first reader who does this will be able to count on a few extra points in the AR classification?

Later in this article, I will describe a method for making spatial boards for playing tic-tac-toe? in the smallest version? 3×3×3 to present only the principles of their construction. However, I encourage you to make bigger and more interesting versions. (,,)

When designing your own boards, you should generally proceed from the fact that between the individual pieces on the boards there should be a distance of about half the diameter of the pawn, while the distance between the boards should not be less than half the side of the pawn. board. For storage, transportation or maintenance, it would be beneficial if the board connections were collapsible, although with the relatively small dimensions of the entire game, this is not absolutely necessary.

STATEMENT ONE: "COMPONENT"

Composition:

– 2-3 colorless CD covers (depending on the type), possibly other transparent plates 10 × 10 cm

– checker pawns (two sets), possibly other pawns as a substitute (for example, two-color buttons or numbers printed on cardboard)

- board connectors (8 interboards about 45 mm long and 8 end boards about 3-5 mm), for example, suitable pipe sections and 4 rods or screws 10,5 cm long, 3 mm in diameter.

According to the working drawing of the board () pasted on the CD cover, first drill holes for the connectors, and then cut out the boards along the contour using a ball with fine teeth. The edges are sanded like fine-grained sandpaper. The lines separating the individual fields can be scratched with a knife or drawn with a waterproof pen. You can also stick lines of self-adhesive foil.

We connect the boards using pre-prepared connectors. The effect of my attempts is visible in the photo below.

RECIPE TWO: "sweet"

Composition:

- a pack of chocolates with a diameter of about 13 mm in colored glaze (such as M&M?S, Skittles, Lentilki, Filutki, etc.)

– 8 spacers 35-45 mm M3 inside/outside ? for example from the AVT store? http://sklep.avt.pl/c/pl/168/1/1/0/long/czesci+i+podzespoly+-+obudowy-+radiatory-+elementy+mocujace+i+dystansowe.html

– 8 spacer nuts M3 per kit as above

- Plexiglas plates 1 - 2 mm (there may also be covers made of CD polystyrene, but they are more fragile than Plexiglas, this should be borne in mind especially when drilling holes). In the absence of suitable transparent tiles, other materials can be used, such as thin plywood.

The biggest problem in this case will be carefully drilling holes in fragile tiles. It is also worth using working templates pasted on plastic forms. I recommend drilling the small diameter holes first and then reaming the holes on both sides with the target diameter bit.

After carefully drilling and finishing the boards, assembling them together with professional connectors is a real pleasure!

Glass balls are also great for playing on this type of board, of course, the size of the boards must match their diameter.

RULE THREE: "Coral"

Composition:

– beads with a diameter of 18 mm from natural materials? wooden (eventually plastic)? in two different colors in quantity as above.

- wooden (or plastic) stand with dimensions 80 × 80 × 6 mm

- 9 bamboo (or steel, depending on convention) rods with a diameter of 3 mm and a length of 65 mm

- glue for wood

Preparing this version of the game is perhaps the easiest one described so far. Using a sticky template (), you drill holes in the wooden stand at the right distance, and then stick the prepared rods into them. The corals must fall freely onto the rods, so you can't immediately place the pieces on the upper floors, as was the case in the two previous versions of the game. The most commonly used layout in this version is also the 4x4x4 layout.

I think that from today's "menu" each of the readers will be able to choose something for themselves. As usual, I wish the performers of the games featured in this article a lot of fun building and playing them, and I invite you to share your reports on the Młodego Technika forum.

WORTH SEEING:

? young technological version of the game 4×4

? electronic version of the game

? 3×3×3 ball version by Opitec

? version 4×4×4?coral?

? Mirror version 3×3

? much about the base version of the game and its many ancestors and sisters (in English)