Hyundai G4EE engine

Engines from the new Alpha 2 series have replaced the Alpha series. One of them - G4EE - was produced from 2005 to 2011. The motor was installed on a model of the Korean automobile industry, in a number of markets it was offered in a derated version of 75 hp. With.

Description of Korean engines

Overview of G4EE

Hyundai equips its cars with engines of its own production. This makes the Korean company independent from third-party manufacturers. But it was not always so. For many years, Hyundai produced engines under license from the Japanese brand Mitsubishi, and only in 1989 began to develop separately.

Today, Hyundai produces various types of internal combustion engines, with specific functions and tasks:

• 4-cylinder in-line units of small cubic capacity on gasoline;
• 4-cylinder in-line units of small cubic capacity on diesel fuel;
• 4-cylinder engines of large cubic capacity on gasoline and diesel fuel;
• 6-cylinder diesel engines;
• 8-cylinder V-shaped engines on gasoline and diesel fuel.

There are also a few 3-cylinder petrol units, and many engines under 1 liter. These are engines used on generators and small equipment - scooters, snowplows, cultivators.

Motors are produced in Korea itself, India, Turkey and other countries. They come to the Russian Federation along with other batches of imported power plants. High power, unpretentiousness, low demands on the quality of gasoline made Korean engines very popular in Russia.

Characteristics of G4EE

This is a 1,4-liter engine, injection, developing a power of 97 hp. With. It has a cast iron BC and an aluminum cylinder head. There are 16 valves in the engine. There are hydraulic compensators that eliminate the need for manual adjustment of thermal gaps. The ICE is powered by AI-95 gasoline. Meets European emission standards - 3 and 4.

The motor is economical. In the city, for example, on a Hyundai Accent with mechanics, it consumes only 8 liters of gasoline, on the highway - 5 liters.

Engine displacement, cc	1399
Maximum power, hp	95 – 97
Maximum torque, N * m (kg * m) at rpm.	125(13)/3200; 125(13)/4700; 126(13)/3200
Fuel used	Gasoline AI-92; Gasoline AI-95
Fuel consumption, l / 100 km	5.9 – 7.2
engine's type	4-cylinder in-line, 16 valves
CO2 emission in g / km	141 – 159
Cylinder diameter, mm	75.5
Number of valves per cylinder	4
Maximum power, h.p. (kW) at rpm	95(70)/6000; 97 (71) / 6000
Supercharger	No
Valve drive	DOHC
Compression ratio	10
The piston stroke, mm	78.1
What cars did you install it on?	Kia Rio sedan, hatchback 2nd generation

G4EE malfunctions

Hyundai Accent

They are different. The most common include unstable engine operation, oil leakage and strong vibrations.

Unstable work: jerks, dips

The most common problem with this engine is associated with jerks in operation at certain speeds. As a rule, this is due to breakdowns in the ignition system. Also, jerks and traction dips occur due to a clogged fuel filter. Sometimes it is simply impossible to drive normally, because the engine is suddenly going to stall, then it starts to work smoothly again.

There are other reasons for this behavior of the internal combustion engine.

1. Worn cylinder head gasket, but then oil should also flow.
2. Poorly adjusted valves. However, automatic hydraulic lifters are used on the G4EE, so thermal clearances do not need to be adjusted. Of course, unless they are broken, it is advisable to check for insurance.

Thus, monitoring the state of the ignition system during unstable operation of the internal combustion engine suggests itself. The spark plugs may be faulty. Even one badly working candle impairs engine performance. At least one cylinder in this case works intermittently.

If the ignition coil is faulty - which does not happen very often - this can be determined by a spark. In this case, the engine power is noticeably reduced. Unstable operation of the motor, unstable speed - all this stabilizes after repair or replacement of a defective part.

The weak link in the ignition system is armored wiring. If one of the wires is broken, the internal combustion engine starts to work intermittently. As a result, the engine power is noticeably reduced, it works unstably.

Oil leak

Constant oil leakage on used G4EEs is also not uncommon. Grease is leaking from under the valve cover. This and another reason - the wear of the valve stem seals - become a reason for the oil engine to burn.

Inside an internal combustion engine, there are many different seals that leak oil over time. A sign of a leak on some Hyundai models is determined by the operation of the clutch - it slips. And if the engine fluid gets on the intake manifold or muffler, there is an unpleasant smell in the cabin, it gives off blue smoke from under the hood.

An insufficient oil level is also a sign of a fluid leak from the internal combustion engine. Before each operation, it is recommended to check the level, look at the indicator on the instrument panel.

Why oil leaks

Oil leakage can also occur for other reasons:

• USVK breakdowns (intake system control);
• wear of ICE seals, their leakage;
• loss of tightness of the motor fluid sensor;
• loss of tightness of the oil filter;
• using the wrong oil;
• overflow and increase in working pressure.

However, the most common cause is a blown cylinder head gasket. It is damaged in any place, which immediately leaks. The liquid goes not only outside, it can flow into the cooling system, mixing with the refrigerant.

Severe vibrations are the result of loosening of one or more engine mounts.

Repair and service

First, let's look at the repair reviews.

Romik	I bought a car with a G4EE engine with a mileage of 168 thousand km. from the first owner (I suspect that the mileage is native, given the condition of the cabin, plus a lot of checks for post-warranty service from the official dealer indicating the mileage). I’ll make a reservation right away, the engine was in good order and did not make any extraneous sounds, the knock of the hydraulic lifters was insignificant and only on a cold engine. Everything was done to eliminate any problems during further operation. Piston rings, valve stem seals and connecting rod bearings have been replaced. Also installed new belts and rollers. On disassembly, no significant design flaws were noted. The book on the repair of the publishing house “Third Rome” downloaded on the forum helped, but to a greater extent everything was done intuitively. I did it in the following sequence: draining antifreeze, draining engine oil, dismantling the timing mechanism, unfastening various wiring chips (I advise you to take a picture as it was before, it will simplify assembly), removing the exhaust manifold, removing the intake manifold, dismantling the valve cover, disassembling the cylinder head, dismantling the head, removal of the oil pan, dismantling of the pistons.
Andrei	When turning the drain plug, at the bottom of the radiator, the edges licked. He scored a knife and barbarously twisted it. I advise you to order this cork in advance, it costs a penny. When dismantling the timing mechanism, I could not manually unscrew the pulley bolt on the crankshaft and resorted to using a pneumatic wrench. He also helped to spin the gear from the camshaft, without this it would not be possible to change the camshaft oil seal. The wiring chips are removed, everything is fine, the only thing is not to rush, the plastic is fragile. Dismantling the exhaust manifold did not cause problems. I pre-filled the nuts with a VD-shkoy, everything turned around. With the intake manifold, everything is more complicated. It is more problematic to unscrew the nuts that are not visible, you have to do it by touch. You will also have to unscrew the two retaining brackets, which are attached to the inlet on one side and to the bottom of the block on the other, and access to everything is not very good. I did not pull out the intake completely, I just threw it off the cylinder head studs.
Expert	I cleaned the grooves in the pistons with a piece of a compression ring. The plaque is such that no decarbonization will corrode. Then I “soaked” them in hot water and oven cleaner. Cleaned up, I must say. In order not to confuse the pistons, I put screeds on them / they are also plastic clamps, in the amount corresponding to the cylinder number
Simon	About the “tanned” pistons, this is certainly cool, I really didn’t think that there would be such soot at 160 tyks. AAAAAAAA I already have 134!!! damn scary. so I don’t want to go there, especially since many other things will come up by this time ..
A morgue	During maintenance, the hydraulics were not washed. I know that there is such a procedure. I specially fill in Lukoil synthetics, it has good washing properties. There is another car in the family - and there it perfectly washed the soot after the castrol. You can argue about oil for an endlessly long time, I don’t impose my opinion on anyone.
Lullabies	And so everything seems to be on the case, but the hydraulics were still worth dismantling, the oil doesn’t circulate there much, so there is garbage, albeit a little. I think I suffered with caps for a long time?
Barbarian	I found in the garage a piece of plastic tube that is worn on the valve in size, on top I put on a VAZ lapping tool with a collet clamp (VAZ valves are thicker, therefore such a collective farm). The lapping paste sold in the store was given by “VMP-auto”, I have not dealt with others before, so I can’t say anything for or against, it seemed to get used well. Later, the assembled head was spilled with gasoline, nothing was leaking anywhere. In general, the cylinder head takes a lot of time. He cracked it all up pretty quickly. At night, left to sour / wash the valve. About 1,5 hours killed for grinding. Pressing on the caps also proceeds quickly. But the drying took me about 2 hours. I think if you have the appropriate skills, everything will go faster.

And now for the oil, its characteristics and volume.

Dimon	I want to start pouring ZIC oil into the engine (I liked the work in the box). Which one to choose from the XQ 5W-30 line. Car Kia Rio 2010 Engine 1,4 G4EE. Prior to this lil went to the dealer. I'm out of warranty now. Habitat - Moscow. Long trips in summer. I changed it at the dealer every 15 times. I myself plan to change after 10k. Which one should I choose? TOP, LS? FE, or just XQ? According to the service book, I recommend ACEA A3, API SL, SM, ILSAC GF-3. ZIC XQ LS apparently does not suit me. It has an SN/CF specification. As I see it, ZIC XQ 5W-30 has ACEA A3 approval. I have a recommendation in my book. mikong, but what kind of pour? ZIC XQ 5W-30 or ZIC XQ FE 5W-30 ? Driving style - active. By the way, in the operating book there is already info about the GF-4, and in the service GF-3. But as I understand it, it is the same energy-saving as the GF-3.
Technician	Kia Rio sedan II 2008, dorestyle. Modification 1.4 16V. Engine G4EE(Alpha II). Power, hp 97. The previous owner filled in 109000 G-Energy 5w30 on the run. Now I'm a little tight on the budget, so the choice is from: Lukoil Lux API SL / CF 5W-30 synthetics; Hyundai-Kia API SM, ILSAC GF-4, ACEA A5 5W-30; Hyundai Kia Premium LF Gasoline 5W-20. The manufacturer's book says to pour oil API SJ / SL or higher, ILSAC GF-3 or higher. Recommended 5w20, in the absence of 5w30. Moreover, in newer manuals for Rio, they already advise API SM or higher, ILSAC GF-4 or higher, although the engine for the restyled Rio seems to be the same.
a guest	I wouldn’t pour “twenty” into “alpha”, after all, these motors are designed for ACEA A3, and not for low-viscosity oils. LLS 5w-30, I think, is quite suitable. ZIC XQ 5w-30 is also a good option.
Xiapa	Lil somehow ZIC XQ 5-30. Leaked after 500 kilometers. Tsokalo, bryakalo all that is possible and not possible. It might be different on a different engine though. For the winter I want to try lls 5-30.
Liqu	Let me disagree with you. Used ACEA A3 oils from different manufacturers on this engine. The result - eats, does not go and rumbles like a diesel engine. On low-viscosity (A5, ilsac) the engine is transformed - it eats little, shoots and runs quietly. PS In the English-language repair manual for G4EE and G4ED, only API and ILSAC ... And not a word about 5w-30.
Technician	Eh, I still flooded the ZIC XQ 5w30 over the weekend. Service workers and sellers unanimously dissuaded from Lukoil, such as burning. The previous G-energy 5w30 oil was API SM, ACEA A3, the same parameters as ZICa. The behavior of the car does not seem to have changed, although it has not traveled much yet. Taking into account the fact that the car is the first and there is not much experience, then there is nothing to compare with. Initially, after reading the manual and starting to read specialized forums, I wanted to fill in Hyundai / Kia Premium LF Gasoline 5W-20 05100-00451 API SM / GF-4, but I came across opinions that it’s not worth pouring 100000w5 on a car with a mileage of 20 km. What other than, for example, more noisy engine operation, can the use of ACEA A3 oils threaten?
Donets	It will blunt a little and warm up a little more.
Cosmonaut83	One of these days I will fill myself with GT Oil Ultra Energy 5w-20. For a test. After 2-3 thousand km. I will replace. If you like the operation of the engine on a 20-ke, then for the next fill I will take something more solid (in mind Mobil 1 5w-20). And if you don’t like it, I’ll return to low-viscosity 30s.
IvanovPetrovSidorov	Changed the spring in the oil pump. Silence. Like a new motor. Maybe not so much depends on the oil? If there is no dripping from the pan, I will replace it with GToil in a week.
Prominent	I have already driven a thousand on GT oil energy sn 5w-30, after Castrol AR it goes easier and more fun. Castrol AR was softer. The hydraulics do not knock, which is good, but when the engine is cold, a very slight rattling is heard in the region of 1500-1800 rpm, which was not on the Castrol. 2-3 minutes of warming up or driving right away - and everything is quiet. Darkened for a thousand quite a bit. Another month and before the new year I will fill in Lukoil 5-30. Let's see him.
Esther	I noticed that after a week of standing, the car starts up with unusual sounds (non-critical tapping), I use a crack, can oils with esters solve most of the knocks, as in my case, and help someone who has the knock of hydraulics clearly seen on this engine? someone poured something with esters - are there any such reviews?
Vadik	I lil gulf gmx, the dutch site has msds, esters are listed there. Really better.
Anderthal	Dear forum users! Please tell me! Is it possible to use 4w-0 in G20EE in summer in Moscow traffic jams? And if so, how often should you change it? The point is that in the "reserves" there is Mobil 1 0w-20 AFE. Now GT OIL Ultra Energy 5w-20 is splashing in the crankcase. In winter, I don’t drive often, so pouring Mobil, IMHO, is greasy. But for the summer it would be just right.