Hyundai G4FD engine

At the beginning of the 21st century, Hyundai, having become the owner of a significant share of the Kia concern, began to actively promote its subsidiary. Designed models and accessories for them. The engine market was particularly active. Let us consider in detail one of the joint productions with Kia - the Hyundai G4FD engine.

A bit of history

Hyundai G4FD engine

The management of the joint venture decides to significantly modify the entire line of engines. In particular, structurally obsolete units from the Alpha series should be replaced with fundamentally new internal combustion engines. The latter were entirely intended for segments A and B. However, some models of these engines were also installed on large crossovers. Thus, first in the domestic market of Korea, then in the USA and throughout Asia, the G4FC and G4FA motors debuted. And for Europe, Hyundai / Kia power plants have been modified in a special way to meet more advanced standards.

First of all, for the G4FD and G4FJ motors, the construction scheme was changed:

• GRS mechanism;
• fuel system with direct injection.

The rest of the specifications differed little from the standard 1,6-liter engines. It's just that the G4FD and G4FJ turned out to be less voracious in terms of fuel, not so whimsical in operation and more reliable.

G4FD Review

This 1,6-liter engine appeared in 2008, the first of its counterparts to receive direct injection. This is a 16-valve straight-four with 132 or 138 hp. With. (turbo version). The torque is 161-167 Nm.

The power plant includes the following elements:

• BC and cylinder head, assembled from 80-90 percent of aluminum;
• GDI type direct injection injector;
• 2 camshafts arranged according to the DOHC scheme;
• the manifold of the intake system, made in the form of two halves - the length of the assembly varies depending on the operating conditions;
• timing chain drive with damper and tensioners;
• CVVT phase regulators.

G4FD engine cylinder head

Experts call the G4FD a good engine, reliable. On the other hand, the valves need to be monitored all the time, periodically adjusted. However, the motor cannot be called difficult to maintain, it does not require expensive repair kits, it is considered economical in its class of medium-power units. Among the shortcomings, one can single out increased noise (timing chain), vibrations and demands on fuel quality.

G4FD (atmospheric)	G4FD (turbocharged)
Manufacturer	KIA-Hyundai	KIA-Hyundai
Years of production	2008-NV.	2008-NV.
Cylinder head	Aluminum	Aluminum
Food	Direct injection	Direct injection
Construction scheme (the order of the cylinders)	Inline (1-3-4-2)	Inline (1-3-4-2)
No. of cylinders (valves per cylinder)	4 (4)	4 (4)
The piston stroke, mm	85,4-97	85.4
Cylinder diameter, mm	77-81	77
Compression ratio, bar	10,5-11	9.5
Engine displacement, cubic meters cm	1591	1591
Power, hp / rpm	124-150 / 6 300	204 / 6 000
Torque, Nm / rpm	152-192 / 4 850	265 / 4 500
Fuel	Gasoline, AI-92 and AI-95	Gasoline, AI-95
Environmental standards	EURO 4	EURO 4
Fuel consumption per 100 km: city/highway/mixed, l	8,2/6,9/7,5	8,6/7/7,7
Oil consumption, grams per 1000 km	600	600
Lubrication standard	0W-30, 0W-40, 5W-30 and 5W-40	0W-30, 0W-40, 5W-30 and 5W-40
Volume of oil channels, l	3.3	3.3
Oil change frequency, km	8000	8000
Engine resource, km	400000	400000
Modernization options	available, potential - 210 hp	available, potential - 270 hp
Equipped models	Hyundai Avante, Hyundai I40, Hyundai Tuscon, KIA Carens (4th generation), KIA CEE'D, KIA Soul, KIA Sportage	Hyundai Avante, Hyundai I40, KIA CEE'D, KIA Soul, KIA Sportage

G4FD Service Rules

This motor receives a solid "four" in terms of maintenance. For its trouble-free operation, it is enough to follow these principles.

1. Fill with high-quality oil, gasoline and other technical fluids.
2. Do not operate the motor under load for a long time.
3. Adhere to the maintenance standards prescribed in the manual.

The last aspect requires much more detailed consideration. You need to know how and what to serve on the G4FD.

1. An oil change should be carried out every 7-8 thousand kilometers of the car. Pour compositions that correspond to the parameters 0W-30, 0W-40, 5W-30, 5W-40. The volume of fluid to be filled should be 3 or 3,1 liters, although the entire crankcase with the system can hold at least 3,5 liters of lubricant.
2. Every 10-15 thousand kilometers, replace the air and oil filters.
3. Every 25-30 thousand kilometers, check and replace consumables such as a pump, oil seals.
4. Replace spark plugs every 40-45 thousand km. You can install any models on the G4FD, both branded and Russian. However, it is important to remember that the spark-producing elements must be of high quality and correspond to the glow number specified by the manufacturer.
5. Every 20-25 thousand km, adjust the valves.
6. Measure engine compression every 15 thousand kilometers for prevention purposes.
7. Check intake / exhaust manifolds, crankshaft and camshaft, ignition system, pistons and other basic elements. This must be done every 50-60 thousand kilometers of the car.
8. Every 90 thousand kilometers, adjust the thermal clearances by selecting pushers. The clearances should be as follows: at the inlet - 0,20 mm, at the outlet - 0,25 mm.
9. Every 130-150 thousand kilometers, check and replace the timing chain along with the damper and tensioners. The chain drive resource is not limited by the manufacturer, but this is not so.

Compliance with RO rules is a fundamental factor for long and trouble-free operation of the motor.

Malfunctions and repair of G4FD

Under the hood of Hyundai

Knocking and other noises coming from under the hood are a characteristic "sore" of this engine. A similar malfunction occurs more often on a cold one, then, as it warms up, it disappears. If the symptom is similar, the cause should be sought in poorly adjusted valves or a weak timing chain.

As for other common faults:

• oil leakage, easily eliminated by replacing seals and carefully monitoring the oil supply system;
• failures in XX mode, which is corrected by the correct setting of the injection system or timing;
• increased vibrations eliminated by timing adjustment.

G4FD performs well with proper maintenance, and in the absence of high loads, it consumes its entire resource without any difficulties. To get the most out of the Gamma series motors, it is recommended that you remember to periodically overhaul. The overhaul period under normal conditions is 150 thousand km.

Tuning G4FD

An engine of this type is an excellent model for modernization. You can unlock its potential to the maximum if you invest the proper amount of financial resources and competently approach the increase in power. Standard improvements will increase power to 210 hp. With. And in the turbocharged version, this figure can be increased to 270 hp. With.

So, the classic ways to upgrade the atmospheric G4FD are:

• replacement of camshafts with sports sample options;
• forcing with the replacement of the entire piston group;
• chipovka;
• replacement of attachments with components with improved characteristics;
• exhaust and injector upgrades.

To obtain the optimal effect, the described measures are recommended to be carried out in a complex manner. If you do them separately, you can increase the maximum power by only 10-20 hp. With. The implementation of better tuning will require at least half the amount of the car, which makes such an upgrade pointless. It is better in this case to purchase a stronger engine.

What cars is installed G4FD

The engine was placed exclusively on cars manufactured by Kia / Hyundai.

1. Hyundai Avante.
2. Hyundai Ay40.
3. Hyundai Tuscon.
4. Kia carens 4 generations.
5. Kia Sid.
6. Kia Soul.
7. Kia Sportage.

As for the turbocharged version of the G4FD, all models were equipped with it, except for the Tuscon and Carens. Today, the G4FD engine is often bought as a contract. It costs about 100 thousand rubles maximum, and if you try, you can find 40 thousand rubles each.

Abu Adafi	Greetings, comrades. Closer to May I'm going to change cars. More and more inclined to purchase an auction car from South Korea. I choose from Avante (Elantra), K5 (Optima) and recently K3 (new Cerato 2013) The vast majority of instances have GDI engines. They are not officially supplied to us, on all DOHC. The most important question that makes you think is the reliability and behavior of these same engines. There are already a bunch of the same Avants riding in the city, I would like to ask the owners of these purebred Korean cars about the operation of these engines and cars in general, is it worth bothering with the loin or looking at their analogues in our market? Thank you in advance
Conti	Brother bought a sporteydzh with a GDI engine in January. (Driven from Korea under its own power). Some incredible number of horses are fed with the most common Lukoil 92 gasoline at a consumption of about 9 liters in mixed mode. If I'm not mistaken, then for 250 horses there.
Znayka	They have such, TGDI, turbo, about 270 horses if I'm not mistaken
padzherik898	Koreans have GDI engines a copy of Mitsubishi engines of the same series! So these engines are, in principle, reliable and hardy, only they need appropriate care! But they are not delivered to Russia because they are very picky about our fuel! I don’t know how they really behave if you drive Sibneft gasoline jidrive! But I know for sure that engines do not like any additives and the like, for example, on a Mitsubishi jidai, if you drive on bad gasoline, carbon deposits form in the combustion chamber, etc. and then welcome to cleaning the combustion chambers! There is such a Mitsubishi Vince liquid called an expensive little thing, but it cleans perfectly, and immediately replacing the iridium spark plugs cleaning the nozzles changing the oil, since the oil in the engine must be changed immediately after cleaning, etc.! And also the oil itself the factory recommends changing on jidai engines after 5-7.5 thousand km as well as diesel engines! So you will ask questions!
Antikylller	I have an Avante MD 2011, 1.6l 140hp GDI, I fed her 92-95-98 Lukoil for testing, stopped at 95th. Zero problems, including in the cold, it started up perfectly without autorun, although there the battery costs a native 35ach like. Dynamics is also satisfied, coupled with 6AKPP. The only frustrating ground clearance, especially in front of a low, sometimes catchy. I ordered 2cm spacers in front, 1.5cm in back. I'm going to put it on the exit. Mafon Russified, now full-time NAVI, music, movies, everything works.
Andro	Yes, the same turbo Mitsubishi engines, only Mitsuba put them on their cars back in 1996, and they officially stopped supplying ours to the market because of the jidai injection system, and jidai with a turbo is even more harm than without a turbo! And so far, everything is working fine, a really excellent engine and pulls like a diesel and the consumption is small, just not for our fucking gasoline! And the high-pressure pumps on the latest cars have been modified and if you pour good gasoline, they are designed almost for the entire life of the car!
Serik	In any modern engine, you need to pour good gasoline, oil in a timely manner to service and care for it. This is not a carburetor basin to which the nth is filled in, what kind of candles and oil it has. Of course, on GDI it will not be possible to save on gasoline (if you are used to doing this and pouring in any kind of ram) not on oil, not on candles.
Goiter	The first, main and most important thing that owners of such cars should understand for themselves is the quality of the fuel that you will fill in the fuel tank. It has to be “the best”: high-octane and clean (really high-octane and really clean). Naturally, the use of LEADED gasoline is absolutely not allowed. Also, do not abuse various kinds of “additives and cleaners”, “octane boosters”, and so on and so forth. And the reason for this ban is the very principles of “building” high-pressure fuel pumps, that is, the principles of “compressing and pumping fuel”. For example, on the 6G-74 GDI engine, a diaphragm-type valve is involved in this, and on the 4G-94 GDI engine, as many as SEVEN small plungers located in a special “cage” similar to a revolver and working according to a complex mechanical principle.
Sergei Sorokin	Chain. 0W-30, 0W-40, 5W-30 and 5W-40. The optimal lubricant change interval is 8 kilometers. Gross capacity 000. When replacing, it enters somewhere 3,5-3,0.
Tonic74	Need advice on choosing oil. Having studied the information on the topic of interest, I came to the conclusion: low-ash oil is better, the interval is no more than 7 thousand. Based on these parameters, there are many options, I ask knowledgeable people to recommend certain oils (maybe someone based on experience of use). The “oil” path of the engine is as follows: the car was purchased with a mileage of 40 thousand. It was filled with Gazprom oil 5w30 (no more data), out of ignorance and negligent advice, Mobile 5w50 was filled in, after replacing it I immediately realized that the choice was extremely wrong (the engine started “ diesel”), drove it no more than 200 km, filled it with Shell 5w30. It had 2 replacements at intervals of 10 thousand. Afterwards, the realization came that it would be a good idea to understand what is more useful. I came to HYUNDAI TURBO SYN 5W-30 oil. There were no complaints about the work, the interval kept 7 thousand. Once I filled in HYUNDAI PREMIUM LF GASOLINE 5W-20 for a test, the engine noise increased, the oil burned out in about 3 thousand (taking into account the added residue from the canister). I returned to HYUNDAI TURBO SYN 5W-30, the oil does not go away, the noise does not increase. I recently found out about this resource, read it and realized that this oil is full ash and is not recommended for my engine. Data: -Kia Forte, 2011, straight steering wheel; Engine Gdi G4FD, gasoline; -4 liter canister of oil is enough; 80% city, 20% highway; -from 5 to 7 thousand.
Sportage72	Yes, you need API SN ILSAC GF-5 class oils, not summer 5W-30, you can use 0W-30 for winter, because you still have minuses. Good products with these tolerances: Mobil 1 X1 5W-30; Petro-Canada Supreme Synthetic 5W-30 (also in 0W-30 viscosity); United Eco-Elite 5W-30 (also in 0W-30 viscosity); Kixx G1 Dexos 1 5W-30; you can also pour domestic Lukoil GENESIS GLIDETECH 5W-30 - also a good oil
Genius88	5W-30 Ravenol FO (pluses: high alkaline, relatively low price, cons: mediocre low-temperature, relatively high ash content, package without molybdenum and boron); 5W-30 Mobil1 x1 (pros: high alkaline coupled with low ash content, good package with molybdenum and boron, good low-temperature, wide availability, cons: price in some places)
Robbie	Most importantly, keep the change intervals, these motors “kill” oil (especially in winter). If there is a track, then focus on 200 hours for ILSAC oils and 300 hours for ACEA A1 / A5 ... Engine hours - divide the mileage by cf. speed, which can be measured on the board computer by “resetting” the counter “M” after filling the oil. A little about the choice of viscosity: if the operation is only in the city, then it is quite possible to pour 0W-20 year-round. If mostly on the highway, then 5W-20/30 year-round. If in winter only the city, and in the summer mostly the highway, then 0W-20 / 5W-20 (30) (winter / summer) or 0W-30 all year round. If there are very high speeds on the highway, then 5W-30 A5. If in the summer there are very heavy loads in the form of a serious off-road or a heavy trailer, then it is better to pour high-quality 10W-30 synthetics (Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, Mobil1 EP, Castrol Edge EP, Amsoil SS).
Seasoned75	For those who have a mileage of more than 200 thousand km, I recommend pouring oils for “used” engines - they contain special additives for the careful treatment (and even restoration) of oil seals and other rubber goods: 5W-30 Valvoline Maxlife; 5W-30/10W-30 Pennzoil High Mileage (winter/summer); 5W-30/10W-30 Mobil1 High Mileage (winter/summer); At the same time, “jumping” to a higher viscosity of 5W-40/50 does not make sense, IMHO

Video: G4FD engine

Engine G4FD ELANTRA MD/ AVANTE MD /ix35/ Solari