Hyundai G4KA engine

The Hyundai G4KA engine has been in production since 2004. It is installed on the best models of the concern, such as Sonata and Magentis. However, after a few years, the 2-liter engine began to be squeezed out of the assembly line by more modern units of the Theta series, equipped with two phase regulators.

Description of the G4KA engine

Hyundai G4KA engine

Like any new-generation engine, the G4KA is equipped with lightweight cylinder heads and cylinder heads. They are more than half made of aluminum. The engine timing drive uses not one, but two chains at once. There is a phase shifter on the CVVt intake. The motor unit complies with the environmental class Euro 3 and 4.

This Korean motor is reliable only if you fill in high-quality oil and other technical fluids. He does not tolerate even gasoline with a low octane number - AI-92 and below.

Engine displacement, cc	1998
Maximum power, hp	145 – 156
Maximum torque, N * m (kg * m) at rpm.	189(19)/4250; 194(20)/4300; 197(20)/4600; 198 (20) / 4600
Fuel used	Gasoline AI-95
Fuel consumption, l / 100 km	7.8 – 8.4
engine's type	4-cylinder in-line, 16 valves
Number of valves per cylinder	4
Maximum power, h.p. (kW) at rpm	145(107)/6000; 150(110)/6200; 156(115)/6200
What cars did you install it on?	Kia Carens minivan 3rd generation UN; Kia Forte sedan 1st generation TD; Kia Magentis sedan 2nd generation restyled version of MG
Cylinder block	aluminum R4
Block head	aluminum 16v
Bore	86 mm
Piston stroke	86 mm
Timing drive	two chains
Phase regulator	inlet CVVT
What kind of oil to pour	4.6 liters 5W-30
Environmental class	EURO 3/4
Approximate resource	250 000 km

G4KA engine malfunctions

Often drivers complain about the following points:

• strong noise and vibration;
• rapid clogging of the throttle assembly;
• early damage to the compressor conda, as evidenced by the crunch of the bearing;
• scuffing on cylinders from ceramic dust created by the catalyst.

This ICE does not have hydraulic lifters. Therefore, when extraneous noise appears, it is necessary to adjust the thermal gaps manually. Selecting the size of the pushers is the main task of this procedure.

Almost the same noise, reminiscent of a clatter, is possible due to the formation of scoring on the cylinders.

Bullying Danger

First, let's define what a bully is. If the distance between the piston and the can is reduced so that the parts are in contact butt, the lubricant layer disappears. There is contact between the rubbing elements, which leads to overheating of the piston. In turn, this causes an increase in the diameter of the part and a wedge.

Seizure on the cylinder

How do burrs form. First of all, this happens during the running-in process, i.e., in the early phase of the ICE operation. Just during this period of time, the working parts of the cylinder, piston and rings get their shape, run in. Therefore, careful handling of the engine at this time is the main task of the owner. The motor should not experience a strong heat load until the parts of the CPG are mutually run in. There are special guidelines setting turnover quotas at this time.

There are also other causes of scuffing:

• wrong driving style - on a cold engine, you cannot sharply gain momentum, as this causes the piston to expand;
• low oil or refrigerant pressure - the oil is thick on a cold internal combustion engine, therefore the pressure is insufficient (as for antifreeze, this is either an insufficient level or a malfunction in the coolant system);
• bay of low-grade oil;
• overheating or insufficient cooling of the BC - dirty radiators can become the reason for this.

Thus, seizures in the cylinders threaten an early overhaul. Although you can still ride with such an engine for some time, you will soon have to order a new engine, since in many cases the cost of a thorough overhaul exceeds the price of a contract ICE.

Diagnosis of the presence of seizures is carried out with an endoscope. Check the walls of the cylinder using a microcamera. It allows you to see even the smallest badass. There is another way - the AGC method, which allows you to assess the state of the entire CPG.

endoscope camera

You can protect yourself from scuffing in a timely manner if you treat the cylinders with a special compound HT-10. A strong cermet layer is formed, which effectively covers scuff marks.

Block of balancing shafts

On this motor, the manufacturer has provided a block of balancers. The goal is clear - to stabilize the engine vibrations, which occur quite often on this internal combustion engine due to design features. Only now, after 50-60 thousand kilometers, and even earlier, the balancers begin to do a disservice. They break, the remnants of parts get inside the mechanisms, a dangerous situation of engine breakdown arises. To avoid all this, it is recommended to remove this block.

Another reason for dismantling - after the wear of the balancer, a sharp decrease in lubrication pressure is possible - and this is already oil starvation of all internal combustion engine elements. The balancer is a complex part, which is a metal rod with grooves. It rotates in bearings, but during the operation of the engine, heavy loads act on it. More often than others, distant bearings and elements are loaded. After a short period of time, they wear out, break.

Repair of balancers is also possible, but this is an expensive pleasure. It is easier to completely remove the block, thereby protecting yourself from further problems with this node. Moreover, the engine power increases after that, because with the balancers, the engine power decreases by almost 15 hp. With.

The block is removed according to the following instruction.

1. First you need to dismantle the engine cover.
2. Then remove the protection and mounting support on the right side.
3. Remove the attachment belt, tensioner and other rollers.
4. It will also be necessary to remove the pump, the crankshaft pulley.
5. Pull out the bracket that secures the air conditioning compressor.
6. Drain the oil, remove the pan by unscrewing the bolts.
7. Remove the engine front cover.

Now we have to work with more caution.

1. Lock the timing chain tensioner.
2. Remove it along with the bar, and then remove the chain.
3. Remove the balance shaft module chain.
4. Get the block.

Block of balancing shafts

The block weighs a lot - about 8 kg. After that, you need to fix the oil pump, which is pulled out along with the module. However, there is a small problem: the block is held on the crankcase with 4 bolts, and the pump is only 3rd. In addition, the oil pump is half as short and smaller. Therefore, it is necessary to remake its bolts or buy new ones.

Then you need to install back all the removed parts:

• the crankshaft gear with the mark forward, be sure to set the piston of the 1st cylinder to TDC;
• fix the chain tensioner bar and the hydraulic tensioner with a thin screwdriver;
• put the chain on the crankshaft gear, fix the chain guide;
• tighten the pump bolts with a force of 25,5 Nm in the order 1-2-3;
• crankshaft oil seal - it is recommended to replace, put a new one;
• front cover with sealant;
• new oil pan.

Tonic	My motor is G4KA. After the engine rattled there were a lot of emotions. The car passed 1100 on the engine after kapitalki. What can I say, the engine is running, but the car has become faster despite the smooth acceleration, more than 2500 rpm. I'm trying not to turn. Naturally without slippers on the floor. The old chain has passed 186 t.km. and if it weren't for the marks, you could leave it. The motor whispers. New pan, new oil pump, new dipstick. Oil changed at 1000 km. Filled on the recommendation of GM Dexos II 5w30.
Magentis 123	And what caused the death of the motor?
Tonic	The balance shaft gear has worn out. it is an oil pump, respectively - oil starvation
Elkin Palych	Crankshaft scoring, as the practice of the minder who repaired the motor of my car shows, is a disease of these motors, even in motors without balancer shafts, the HF lifts.
Light up	Unfortunately, at the beginning of February 2016, on a run of 186600 km. engine knocked. The first impulses to sell the car, put it up for sale, set the price taking into account the repair of the engine, outbid came and offered 200 tr. refused, there were reasons for that. I took the car off the market, started looking for contract engines, the prices are just going through the roof, okay, they would give a normal guarantee, otherwise two weeks = money down the drain. I turned to workshops that specialize in repairing motors, the price is 140 thousand without a guarantee that it is final, to put it mildly, upset.
Madge	The chain was pulled in any case. All the same, 180 thousand. It would be possible not to talk about replacement until 100 thousand. And here there are no options. I wanted to ask about camshafts. after a bulkhead, and many factors are excluded. Have you changed the cups? Have the gaps been adjusted
Alex	Our dvigun knocks like a diesel, everyone knows this for a long time. There's nothing wrong with that, it's just the way it sounds.
Tamirlan	it’s just that pistons in cylinders begin to tap with mileage, fingers in pistons, camshafts begin to go up / down, which in turn excludes the possibility of proper adjustment of valve clearances. all of which combine to give the engine a diesel-like sound. I know this from my own experience. I disassembled this engine twice and removed the head a third time. as a result, the engine whispers again as in its youth,)
Loew	Nothing good can be said about the oil. Nobody knows which is better. I pour Shell 5x30 or 5x40, whichever comes across
Bormann	I pour dexos II oil, before there was oil mobil 5w40 and shell 5w30 / 40 - I experimented). Dexos isn't better, it's cheaper.
Maxim Sivov	Interested in the number on the crankshaft and the numbers on the main and connecting rod bearings. Engine trouble. I want to change the crankshaft and liners and I can’t figure out which ones to buy.
Mortred	Connecting rod bearings – R098H 025 (repair 0.25) – Nissan Bluebird Main bearings – M657A025 (repair 0.25) – Suzuki Cultus. the person who sold me the piston and connecting rod told me in great detail about the engine and what causes the liners to scroll. The fault is the balancer shaft (oil pump) - it must be replaced with a regular oil pump. From Magic 2009: 1. 21310 25001 – Oil pump 2. 21510 25001 – Pan (you can leave the old one, but you will have to fill in 2 liters more oil all the time) 3. 24322 25000 – Pump chain (different sprockets) 4. 23121 25000 – Double gear on the crankshaft 5. 24460 25001 – Oil pump tension chain shoe 6. 24471 25001 – Second chain shoe Check the crankshaft first, maybe it’s not crooked. If everything is good, you will select the inserts. And start your car.
Lonik	Guys, maybe I'm wrong, but are there really no liners from other engines where the size is suitable for magentis. The necks are in majs at 56 in my opinion. I came across an article where the same dimensions are on Mitsubishi.
Count of the Barons	Happened to me too. Picked up my car from a repair the other day. the crankshaft was ground, liners 0,25 from the sonata NF. works quietly. campaign replaced rings, one connecting rod, two rollers, cylinder head gaskets and KK, oil deflectors, two seals.