Fiat Palio - replacement of the cardan shaft in the 1,2 75hp engine.
The manual below is for the replacement of complete driveshafts. It is helpful when replacing a joint, replacing a cracked joint cover, or disassembling the entire axle shaft. This is extremely easy to do and requires nothing other than a standard socket wrench set. No channel or raid is necessary for such an exchange.
We start by unlocking the nut that is on the hub, it is usually hammered / locked and you have to pry it a little. Then use a socket wrench 32 and a long arm to unscrew. It is worth doing it when the wheel is on the hub and the car is standing firmly on the ground.
Summarizing this stage:
-secure the car with a lever;
- unscrew / remove the cap (if it is);
- unlock the nut on the drive shaft (it is worth spraying with penetrant);
- with the cap 32 and the long arm / lever, unscrew this nut, the thread is normal, i.e. the standard direction;
-we take off the wheel;
Sometimes you have to stand on the key when the nut is seized. In Photo 1 you can see the switch with the nut already unscrewed.
Photo 1 - Knuckle and unscrewed hub nut.
In order to remove the driveshaft in the shaft (engine 1,2), it is not necessary to unfasten the steering knuckle and the rocker arm, let me say more, you do not even need to unfasten the rod, just unscrew the shock absorber. So it's not a huge job, just a few screws easily accessible. We have the wheel removed, so we start to unscrew the shock absorber. It is worth using a rattle here (or pneumatics, if you have one) so as not to bother with changing the key. Unscrew the two nuts (key 19, cap and additional 19 for blocking), with which the shock absorber is attached to the steering knuckle. The rocker arm will not fall down because it is held by a stabilizer, which must also be unscrewed later. Unfortunately, unscrewing the shock absorber may result in spoiling the wheel geometry setting. Before removing the bolts, it is worth making marks that allow the shock absorber to be returned to its original position. I would like to thank my colleagues from the forum for comments on this matter, there is in fact some play that could change the wheel alignment.
Photo 2 - Attaching the shock absorber to the steering knuckle.
Summarizing this stage:
- unscrew the shock absorber, cap 19 and a flat key (possibly another, e.g. a ring or a cap) for blocking;
-support the rocker arm with a lever, preferably with the original one because it is the most convenient here;
-unscrew the stabilizer cover;
Now we have a loose steering knuckle, we can maneuver it to pull out the driveshaft. In order to remove the driveshaft from the steering knuckle, we need to set it up properly (Photo 3). You just have to be careful with the brake hose and the bolt, too strong jerks may damage these elements.
Photo 3 - Moment of pulling out the driveshaft.
Until then, the information is useful for anyone planning, for example, to replace a wrist or cuff. Such repairs can now be made freely. The joint is replaced by disconnecting it from the axle shaft. To do this, remove the cuff (break off the bands) and remove the cotter pin. The new joint should be stuffed with graphite grease and tightly tighten the bands (I will write about the bands later).
However, disassembly of the entire driveshaft requires unfastening the inner joint. I am writing about the unfastening and in fact nothing is fastened there, we just tear off the bands and take the joint out of the socket which is stuck in the differential mechanism. The inner joint is made of needle bearings, so it must be handled gently, it must not be allowed to sand on the part.
In the case of the right driveshaft, it is necessary to protect the braid against spilling grease, it is worth placing a piece of foil. The photo shows a cloth, because it's already the moment of folding.
At the moment, with the axle on the table, we can replace the inner mast, of course, if necessary, or replace the inner joint. Before putting it all together, it's a good idea to clean the goblets. It is imperative that they are half filled with graphite grease (or other grease for joints). Then we push the inner joint in to squeeze out the grease. We also pack the grease in the mast, the excess will flow out when the sleeve is put on the cup.
Photo 4 - Rights of the mast during folding.
Clamp the seals with bands, preferably metal ones. It should be noted that in the case of the right-hand drive shaft, these are the areas close to the exhaust, so the band should be metal. Why not wrist ties for the wrist? because these are so strong that it is difficult to squeeze them well, it's just a torment. It is worth buying typically articulated bands, they enter slightly and lock perfectly.
Remember that the driveshafts rotate and you must not insert anything that will affect their balance.
The seals should be bought good, that is made of the right material. You can recognize them by a fairly rigid structure, the cost is about PLN 20-30. Connecting to a soft rubber for a few zlotys will cost you in the future to replace the joint, because such a rubber falls apart very quickly. It is not worth saving here.
Putting it all together is the reverse order. It is worth installing a new nut on the hub (PLN 4 / pcs). The old one can be used as long as it is not too shabby. This nut is tightened on the wheel, you can block the brake disc with a screwdriver, but it's about asking for its damage. It is easier and safer to do it on the lowered wheel.
(Man Kabz)
