How to lift a door with a pry bar?

	When installing or repairing a door, it will be necessary to lift the door to install the hinges. If the door were installed with its bottom in contact with the ground, it would not open smoothly, as the bottom would scratch the floor every time it was opened or closed. This will make it difficult to open the door and eventually damage the door and floor.
	There are some tools designed specifically for lifting doors, but without access to these tools it is possible to use the pry bar as a makeshift door lifter.
	While it may seem easier and cheaper to lift the door yourself without the aid of a lifting tool, doing so exposes you to pinched fingers and limits your freedom of movement. Relying on a colleague to lift the door for you frees up your hands, but as they inevitably get tired, the position of the door becomes less stable.
	This guide shows you how to use a pry bar as a lifting aid when replacing a door hinge.
Which design is better?
	Due to the importance of keeping the door level and stable during hinge repair, a stud with a thick or rounded ridge, such as a standard pry bar or adjustable pry bar, will not work.
	Of the other mounts available, all are suitable for this task, but the thinnest and flattest arms are available on the construction mount and on the precision mount models with wide arms.
	The choice between a construction pry bar and a precision pry bar with wide teeth depends on which you are more comfortable with. A construction pry bar is longer and heavier than a precision pry bar and can be a bit tricky to work with if you're inexperienced, but it will give you more leverage due to its length.
What else do you need?
	Wooden shingles (or other thin wood)
Walkthrough of Wonka
	Step 1 – Protect your gender (optional) If you want to protect the floor under the door you'll be lifting, Wonka recommends inserting a piece of shingle between the bottom of the door and the floor. This means that when pressure is applied to the heel of the mount, the shingle absorbs the force, eliminating the risk of damaging the floor materials.
	Step 2 - Insert the rod Insert a plank between the bottom rail (bottom of the door) and the floor. If the door is still partially hung, you may need shingles to get the bar high enough to touch the bottom rung. If so, keep adding shingles until the tab of the rod makes contact with the door.
	Step 3 - Apply Pressure to the Opposite End of the Rod Push down on the opposite end of the rod until the door begins to rise.
	Step 4 - Insert the shingles under the edge of the door Insert another tile under the outer end of the bottom rail as shown.
	Step 5 - Relieve pressure on the mount Gently release pressure from the claw of the pry bar, carefully allowing the door to stop on the shingle inserted in step 4. This will hold the door in place while you check the hinge height.
	Step 6 - Check the Loop Position Check the position of the hinge. You should strive to ensure that the hinge is evenly attached to the hanging bar (the edge of the door to which the hinges are attached).
	Step 7 - Adjust the Height If you find that your door is not high enough, push down on the end of the pry bar to raise the door higher. Then take another tile and insert it between the tile inserted in step 4 and the bottom joist.
	Repeat steps 5-7 until you are happy with the position of the hinge, continuing to add shingles to adjust the height.
	When you are satisfied with the position of the hinge, you can secure it in place.
	Wonkee Donkee Top Tip If you need to make small adjustments while working with the loop, lightly press down on the end of the pry bar with your foot, as if you were using a pedal. This will allow you to raise and lower the door for short distances, leaving your hands free.