How to properly tighten engine mounts

After the capital of the engine, the right pillow was leaking, or when the engine was installed in place, the screws of the right support were poorly screwed in, but in general very unpleasant sounds were heard at reverse and forward speeds. 1 - 1,5 and 2,5 - 3+ when starting the car .

I changed the pillow, though now I think maybe in vain. I advise everyone to start normally to put the engine in the old one when sounds appear. In general, I changed it, the symptoms remained, only in the forward gear the sound decreased. In the service I say, let's at least sit on a running engine, not to mention the fact that the untwisted bolts would need to be loaded. No, no, the guys say, it makes no sense, all the other pillows need to be changed (in fact, “We want to go home, it's too late”). Well scored on them, left. Drove to the garage, took it and began to regulate himself.

In general, how I did it: I unscrewed the screws and let it work first at XX, then I kept the gas at 2k rpm, then again at XX. Damped, tight - feels like 0.

Second attempt: the same, only tightened. The same - 0 sense.

Third attempt: I relaxed and went for a drive around the village back and forth. Twisted in a tip-off, but not point-blank. Almost miraculously, the sounds from behind disappeared, but from the front it only got worse. I tried again, just loosened the screws more, still the same effect. In short, after three such attempts, he scored. But when tightening the bolts, I noticed that the bolts were not tightened to the end; there was no sound at all from behind, and even less from the front. It’s worth pulling it up harder - the sound appears in both gears, apparently the motor literally switches from mm with curved bolts at point-blank range and that’s all - it vibrates.

Hence my question: maybe then not to postpone? press until the sound disappears? There are also three pillows, and I literally do not turn them over so that the nail sticks out between the bolt and the pillow.

Second observation: I noticed that if you unscrew the one closest to the front and the bolts in the middle, then the far (third) usually comes out with difficulty; this means that the motor is turning and pressing the third bolt. If, on the contrary, tighten the first and middle, then the third bolt is much lighter, which is logical. That's exactly the reason for the appearance of sound in D, it seems to me, lies in the third screw, in the way he puts the motor. Because if you tighten the first two screws (as a result, the third one turns easier), then in D the sound almost completely disappears, and in R it appears again.

Hence the second question: How to tighten the bolts so that they stand up straight?

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Lift and unscrew all 3 and screw back? Or can you completely unscrew the middle one, unscrew the middle and problematic distant ones even with the engine running, and after loading already screw on the middle, far, and then completely unscrew the near one?

 

The car engine vibrates during operation. If this phenomenon is not eliminated, it will create tangible discomfort to the driver and passengers. But most importantly, it negatively affects the machine itself. Vibration is damped by special cushions. They can wear out and fail. Therefore, it is worth knowing when and how to replace engine mounts.

 

Excursion to the materiel

Measures to reduce engine vibration were first taken in 1932 on Plymouth cars manufactured by Chrysler Corporation. At the suggestion of chief engineer Frederik Zeder, rubber gaskets were installed between the engine and the frame. Owners of old Soviet-made cars, such as the Moskvich model, can still see something like this.”

Engine mounts (they are also called engine mounts) today come in several types:

Rubber-metal. They consist of two metal plates and a rubber cushion placed between them. Some manufacturers use polyurethane instead of rubber, which is more durable. In addition, the design can be reinforced with springs to improve shock absorption. These stands are collapsible and non-collapsible. It is widely used due to the simplicity and low cost of production. The service life of rubber and metal bearings is 100 kilometers.

Of course, those motorists who prefer to do everything with their own hands, for one reason or another, often deal with rubber and metal pillows. This is especially true for owners of domestic vehicles. The number of fasteners depends on the type of engine. For example, in the eight-valve engine of a VAZ 2110 car, two side and one rear are used. And in the sixteen-valve version of the mounts there will already be five. Anyone who is going to replace the engine mount on a VAZ with their own hands must take this fact into account.

When to change engine mounts

As already mentioned, the shelf life of the supports is quite long. Especially if the motorist takes good care of his car. However, nothing lasts forever. Therefore, these car parts sooner or later get damaged: from small cracks to breakage. At the same time, extraneous noises appear in the cabin, similar to a roar, for example, and vibrations are also felt under the hood at the moment when the engine is running under load.

To check the pillows and determine the cause of the symptoms that have appeared, there is a very simple way. It is true that it is desirable to have a partner. Therefore, you need to get behind the wheel and start the engine. The hood is open. Then, putting the car on the handbrake, you need to try to drive a couple of centimeters back and forth. During these actions, the partner will see engine vibrations. It is considered a deviation from the norm that the motor can tilt strongly and return to its original position rather slowly. In addition, characteristic shocks may occur in the gearbox. If such moments are present, then it is worth making a visual inspection of the pillows by driving the car into an inspection hole. After that, it will be quite clear: replace the engine mounts or the old ones will still work. Typical external signs can be considered the following:

• cracks or other damage to rubber parts;
• separating the rubber parts from the metal base;
• fluid leakage from hydraulic bearings.

 

These problems arise due to the development of a resource, loss of elasticity of rubber under the influence of temperature changes, as a result of mechanical damage, exposure to chemically active liquids, etc. Now let's talk about what to do if the pillows are defective and your goal is the lowest cost, that is, how to do this repair yourself.

Do-it-yourself engine mount replacement

In this procedure, in principle, there is nothing complicated. And it doesn't matter if you are going to, for example, replace the rear engine mount or all at once. The difference will be in which side you have to act (the rear pillow is removed from the bottom of the car, and the rest from above). Of the tools your cat will need, you may also need a block of wood or a thick board for her to use as a spacer.

It is also necessary to have open-end and socket wrenches for 13, 15, 17, 19 and others, depending on the design features of a particular ICE fitting. It is not necessary to drive the car into a pit or overpass, although if engine protection is installed, it will be more convenient to remove it in a pit.

1. To begin with, the car must be installed evenly, eliminating slopes and distortions. Be sure to put bumpers under the rear wheels. Also, as already mentioned, the engine protection (if any) is removed, as well as the alternator belt. To remove the belt, the tensioner bolt is first unscrewed. To do this, you most likely need a key for 13.
2. Now the cat comes into play. It is installed under the engine and with the help of a spacer the engine is raised. This takes the load off the front cushions. Now they can be unscrewed, then you can proceed directly to replacing them. If you need to work with the rear cushion, then the jack is installed in the area of ​​\uXNUMXb\uXNUMXbthe gearbox. When not one, but several pillows are to be replaced, this is done in turn. As already mentioned, there are more mounts on the sixteen-valve engine. But the essence of the process of replacing them will not change from this.

To summarize

So, damage to the engine mounts has rather terrible signs. However, the procedure for replacing them does not require special knowledge in the device of the car and experience in a car service. The set of necessary tools is minimal. Such a set, as a rule, is available in the trunk of every car owner.

See also: car noise

It is also worth noting that the life of the pillows can be extended if you follow a few simple rules for operating and driving a car:

• avoid abrupt starts from one place;
• when driving through pits, this should be done with extreme caution;

Finally, we add that hitting bumps at high speed or active driving over rough terrain causes active rocking of the power unit in the engine compartment. It should also be remembered that the cost of new pillows can unpleasantly surprise even owners of budget domestic cars. In the case of foreign cars, repairs can require significant financial costs.

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The other day in a conversation between myself and a good person, the question arose of how to adjust the engine mounts. But not only with the help of mounting bolts, but also with the help of balancing weights, which are located directly on the bracket. While the current one is a photo, but they, there are weights in everyone. And on the gel holder, which is on the left, a scale is attached to the latch.

So if you cut them off, you can eliminate the vibration after replacing the pillows. Who has ideas on this topic?

I have to say, a year ago I changed the front and rear airbags, the original ones. The vibration is almost gone. (not to mention any cleanings, candles, cables, distributors, gasoline, pumps, filters). He was in a hurry, put down the pillows, laid them down as they were, and went to look for his wife. I was surprised: there were practically no vibrations on xx and d. Well, I think I'll come and get in the mood. It didn't work. I already tried several times, nothing changes. By chance, while in the hospital, I spoke to a man.