Boiling antifreeze

Why does antifreeze boil? This situation can arise for a variety of reasons, for example, the cap of the expansion tank of the cooling system has been depressurized, the thermostat has broken, the coolant level has decreased, bad antifreeze has been filled in, the cooling fan or temperature sensor has failed. The main thing that the driver of a car whose antifreeze boils should remember is further movement is impossible! Failure to comply with this rule can lead to a complete failure of the internal combustion engine, which is fraught with costly and complex repairs. However, eliminating the causes of antifreeze boiling is actually not so difficult, and sometimes even a novice car owner can do it.

Causes of boiling and their solution

To begin with, we will analyze in detail all the reasons due to which antifreeze boils.

1. Faulty thermostat. the basic task of this device is to not supply coolant to the radiator until the internal combustion engine reaches a certain operating temperature (usually + 85 ° C), that is, to transfer it to the so-called "big circle". However, if the unit does not turn on in time and does not circulate the coolant through the system, then it will quickly heat up in the “small circle” along with the ICE and simply boil, because it will not have time to cool.

   Dirty thermostat

2. Defective radiator. The function of this unit is to cool the antifreeze and keep the cooling system in working order. However, it can get mechanical damage or simply clog from the inside or outside.
3. Pump failure (centrifugal pump). Since the task of this mechanism is to pump the coolant, when it fails, its circulation stops, and the volume of liquid that is in close proximity to the internal combustion engine begins to heat up and, as a result, boils.
4. Low level of antifreeze. A cooling system that is not filled to the right level does not cope with its task, so the temperature exceeds the critical one and the liquid boils.
5. Cooling fan failure. Its function is to forcefully cool the elements of the system of the same name and the liquid. It is clear that if the fan does not turn on, then the temperature will not drop and this may result in the antifreeze liquid boiling. This situation is especially critical for the warm season.
6. Airlock. the basic reason for its appearance is the depressurization of the cooling system. As a result, several harmful factors appear at once. namely, the pressure drops, which means that the boiling point of antifreeze decreases. further, with a long stay of air in the system, the inhibitors that make up the antifreeze deteriorate and do not fulfill their protective function. And finally, the coolant level drops. This has already been mentioned before.
7. Temperature sensor failure. Everything is simple here. This node has not sent the appropriate commands to the thermostat and/or fan. They did not turn on and the cooling system and radiator boiled.

   Antifreeze corroded pump

8. Poor quality antifreeze. If a low-quality antifreeze is poured into the car, that is, a liquid that does not meet the necessary requirements, which means that the radiator is likely to boil. namely, we are talking about the fact that fake coolant often boils at temperatures below +100 ° C.
9. Foaming antifreeze. This can happen for various reasons. For example, low quality coolant, mixing incompatible antifreezes, using antifreeze that is not suitable for the car, damage to the cylinder block gasket, which causes air to enter the cooling system, and as a result, its chemical reaction with the coolant with the formation of foam.
10. Depressurization of the tank lid. The problem can be both in the failure of the safety release valve, and the depressurization of the cover gasket. Moreover, this applies to both the expansion tank cap and the radiator cap. Because of this, the pressure in the cooling system is compared with atmospheric pressure, and therefore, the boiling point of antifreeze decreases.

in order to restore the efficiency of the cooling system, and continue to prevent a situation where antifreeze or antifreeze quickly boils, it is necessary to revise the nodes listed above. Let's list the sequence in which you need to check the specified nodes in accordance with the probability and frequency with which they fail.

Foaming antifreeze

1. Expansion tank and cap. This is especially true for cases where antifreeze boils in the expansion tank, and steam comes out from under it. It is better to replace the entire valve cover.
2. Thermostat. This unit must be checked if, when the internal combustion engine is on, the radiator is cold and the antifreeze is boiling. Also, the thermostat should be checked after replacing the coolant, if it immediately boils.
3. Cooling Fan. It rarely fails, but it's worth checking. usually, problems appear in the dropped contacts or breakdown of the insulation of the stator and / or rotor windings.
4. temperature sensor. The device is quite reliable, but sometimes it fails on older machines. Actually, he then controls the operation of the fan on the radiator
5. Centrifugal pump (pump). Here it is similar to the previous point.
6. Cooling radiator. you need to carefully inspect it for damage and possible leaks of coolant. If it flows (this will be accompanied by a situation when antifreeze leaves), then you need to dismantle it and solder it. Worst case, replace with a new one. You can also just clean it if it is very clogged. For external cleaning, it is better to remove it. And internal cleaning takes place together with the entire cooling system (without dismantling).
7. Check the level of antifreeze in the system. It can leak out of a damaged system, and the remaining volume cannot withstand the heat load and boil. If a low-quality liquid with a low boiling point is used, then it must be replaced completely. Otherwise, you can just add antifreeze.
8. Check if the filled antifreeze is suitable for the current car. If there was a mixing of two brands of coolant, then make sure that they are compatible with each other.
9. Check the operation of the safety valve. You can check the operation of the valve on the cover using polyethylene.
10. Check the quality of the filled antifreeze. This can be done in several ways, using both professional equipment and improvised tools available in the garage or at home.

Bad antifreeze - death to the motor

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usually, only one of the listed items needs to be produced. However, in difficult situations, several of the listed nodes may fail.

Remember that all repair and maintenance work with the cooling system must be performed only when the internal combustion engine has cooled down. Never open the expansion tank cap when the engine is hot! So you risk getting a severe burn!

Often, boiling occurs when the car is moving in a low gear when the internal combustion engine is running at high speeds, for example, when driving for a long time in the mountains or in city traffic jams in the summer heat. The situation is exacerbated if the air conditioner is turned on, since it puts an additional load on the cooling system, namely, on the base radiator. Therefore, before traveling to the mountains, be sure to check the condition of the internal combustion engine cooling system, including the level of antifreeze in it. Top up or replace if necessary.

Antifreeze containing more than 60% by volume ethylene glycol and less than 40% by volume water is not recommended.

Often the cause of boiling antifreeze can be the formation of an air lock in the cooling system. Symptoms of its formation are problems in the operation of the thermostat, leakage of antifreeze, problems with the pump and the interior stove. Therefore, if at least one of the listed problems is on your car, then it is recommended to correct the situation, since ignoring it can also provoke the engine to boil.

Some drivers are interested in the question of why does antifreeze boil after stopping? Several options are possible here. The first is when the car is standing with the engine running. So, this is just a coincidence, and you are lucky that you discovered the occurrence of a situation when antifreeze boiled not on the move, but on the road or in the garage. In this case, immediately turn off the engine and set the machine to the handbrake. We will talk about further actions a little later.

Low level of antifreeze

Another option is that smoke (steam) continues to come out from under the hood after you have detected boiling and stopped at the curb. you need to understand that most liquids, and antifreeze is no exception, have a high thermal conductivity. And this means that it heats up and cools down for a long time. Therefore, there is a situation when you observe a boiling coolant, which, some time after the engine stops, will stop evaporating.

There are exotic options when it boils in the expansion tank after the internal combustion engine is turned off. For example, the situation described below is relevant for the Chrysler Stratus. It consists in the fact that after the engine is turned off, the radiator safety valve releases pressure into the expansion tank. And there is an effect that everything boils there. Many drivers accept such a process as breaking through the cylinder head gasket and are in a hurry to change it. However, there is no need to rush, but instead it is worth carefully studying the cooling system diagram of a particular car.

What are the consequences when antifreeze boils

The consequences of boiling antifreeze depend on how overheated the internal combustion engine is. And this, in turn, depends on the brand of the car (the power of the internal combustion engine and the mass of the body), the design of the motor, as well as the time between exactly how the internal combustion engine boiled and stopped (the moment when it turned off and began to cool down). We conditionally divide the possible consequences into three degrees - mild, moderate and severe.

Thus, when slight overheating of the internal combustion engine (up to 10 minutes), slight melting of the internal combustion engine pistons is possible. However, they can slightly change their geometry. In most cases, this situation is not critical, unless there were problems with the geometry before. If you notice the boiling of antifreeze in time and take the appropriate measures, which will be discussed later, then it is enough to eliminate the cause of the breakdown and everything will be in order.

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The average case of overheating occurs approximately 20 minutes after the antifreeze or antifreeze has boiled. So, the following types of breakdowns are possible:

• curvature of the cylinder head housing (relevant when the internal combustion engine temperature reaches +120 degrees and above);
• cracks may appear on the cylinder head (both microcracks and cracks visible to the human eye);
• melting or burning of the cylinder block gasket;
• failure (usually complete destruction) of the inter-annular partitions standing on the ICE pistons;
• oil seals will begin to leak oil, and it can either flow out or mix with boiled antifreeze.

The breakdowns already listed are enough to imagine the scale of the tragedy that can happen to a car if antifreeze boils. All this is fraught with an overhaul of the engine.

Expansion tank with lid

However, if the driver for some reason ignored the boiling and continues to drive on, then the so-called critical “wave of destruction” occurs. In very rare cases, the motor can simply explode, that is, completely burst and fail, but this does not happen often. usually, destruction occurs in the following sequence:

1. Reflow and combustion of ICE pistons.
2. In the process of said melting, the molten metal gets on the walls of the cylinders, thereby making it difficult for the pistons to move. Ultimately, the piston also collapses.
3. Often, after the failure of the pistons, the machine simply stalls and stops. However, if this does not happen, then problems with engine oil begin.
4. Due to the fact that the oil is also gaining a critical temperature, it loses its performance properties, due to which all the rubbing parts of the internal combustion engine are put under attack.
5. Usually, small parts melt and in liquid form they stick to the crankshaft, which naturally makes it difficult to rotate.
6. After that, the valve seats begin to fly out. This leads to the fact that under the influence of at least one piston, the crankshaft simply breaks, or, in extreme cases, bends.
7. A broken shaft can easily break through one of the walls of the cylinder block, and this is already tantamount to a complete failure of the internal combustion engine, and most interestingly, such a motor is hardly subject to restoration.

Obviously, the consequences of boiling antifreeze in the cooling system can be very sad for both the car and its owner. Accordingly, it is necessary to maintain the cooling system in order, regularly monitor the level of antifreeze, and, if necessary, top it up to a normal level. And in the case when boiling did occur, then you need to react as quickly as possible and take action to fix the problem.

What to do if antifreeze boils

What to do if the internal combustion engine boils

However, the most interesting and interesting question for drivers is the following - what to do if antifreeze / antifreeze boils on the road or in the parking lot. The first thing to remember is - Do not panic, that is, keep the situation under control! It is advisable to pay attention as soon as possible to the fact that the cooling system is partially out of order. This can be done both with the help of instruments on the panel, and visually by the steam coming out from under the hood. The sooner you take action, the more likely you are to get an inexpensive repair.

There is a simple algorithm that any motorist should know, even one that has never encountered a similar situation. It consists of the following steps:

1. Go to Neutral and reset the engine speed to idle.
2. Continue drivingand don't slow down abruptly. Oncoming air will blow the internal combustion engine as much as possible to cool it.
3. also on the go turn on the oven, to the highest possible temperature. Moreover, this must be done regardless of the time of the year, that is, if necessary, even in the summer heat. This procedure is done in order to remove heat from the radiator as much as possible and it also cools down as much as possible at speed without load.
4. You need to roll as long as possible, until it comes to a complete stop (if it happens in the summer, then it is desirable find a stopping place somewhere in the shadewithout exposure to direct sunlight). After the internal combustion engine, you need to muffle it. In this case, the ignition must be left on in order to let the oven run for 5-10 minutes. After that, turn off the ignition.
5. Open the hood in order to give maximum access of natural air to the engine compartment. Without touching any parts of the internal combustion engine with your hands (now they have an extremely high temperature) wait a certain time. In summer it is about 40 ... 50 minutes, in winter - about 20. It depends on weather conditions and the time while the car was "boiling".
6. Call a tow truck or car, which will tow the car to a service station or to a good master with the appropriate diagnostic equipment.

   Dirty radiator

7. If there are no cars nearby, then after the mentioned time, making sure that there is no more boiling and the liquid has “calmed down”, carefully unscrew the cap of the expansion tank of the cooling system and add clean water. If you go nearby, then you can use any non-carbonated drinks. Fill to the mark.
8. Start the car, turn on the stove to maximum and continue at low speeds. As soon as the temperature of the coolant becomes + 90 ° C, you need to stop and again wait 40 minutes. If you're close, then you're in luck. Otherwise, you need to look for an option with a tow truck or tug.
9. Upon arrival at the service station, tell the masters about the problem, usually they will easily find a breakdown (among those described above) and fix it.
10. also be sure to ask them change antifreeze, since the liquid that is currently in the system has already lost its operational properties.
11. make a diagnosis breakdowns in order to find the cause of boiling and eliminate it, so that the situation does not repeat itself in the future.

The algorithm of actions is simple, and even an inexperienced driver can handle it. The main thing is to notice the process of boiling antifreeze in time. And it is advisable to always have a small supply of coolant in the trunk (similar or compatible with that used at the moment), as well as engine oil. The canister does not take up much space, but can come in handy at a critical moment.

What can not be done when the internal combustion engine is boiling

There are a number of strict rules that limit the driver's actions during a situation where antifreeze boils in a radiator, expansion tank or other element of the cooling system. These rules are designed to protect human health from causing serious injuries to him, and from that, in order to minimize material losses that may occur in the described situation.

1. Do not load the internal combustion engine (do not gas, but instead, you need to reduce the speed as much as possible to the idle value, usually around 1000 rpm).
2. Do not stop abruptly and turn off the engine, thinking that the internal combustion engine will stop boiling, on the contrary, everything will only get worse.
3. Do not touch the hot parts of the engine compartment!
4. While steam is coming out from under the cover of the expansion tank or another node and while antifreeze is seething in the system categorically it is impossible to open the cover of the expansion tank! this can only be done after the time specified above.
5. You can not pour cold water on the internal combustion engine! You need to wait for the engine to cool down on its own.
6. After cooling the internal combustion engine and adding new antifreeze, you must not drive after reaching a temperature of more than +90 degrees.

Compliance with these simple rules will ensure the safety of the driver, as well as minimize the degree of breakdown and, consequently, possible material costs.