ICE decarbonization

ICE decarbonization и piston rings - a procedure aimed at removing carbon deposits from parts of the piston group. Namely, cleaning from combustion products of low-quality fuel and oil from pistons, rings and valves. Decarbonizing both with your own hands and at the service station is carried out using special tools - chemical compounds, solvents and solvents. There are 4 ways to remove coke, three of which are carried out without opening the motor, and are exclusively a preventive measure. You can get rid of soot not only with a specially designed liquid, but also with tools prepared on your own. Moreover, both those and others will have good efficiency. The quality of decarbonization depends on the procedure, accuracy of execution and expediency in a particular situation.

Any decarbonization is good as prevention! Like oral hygiene in humans. It is best to produce it periodically, without bringing the state of the internal combustion engine to a critical one, when only a bulkhead can “reanimate”. Very relevant for German engines (VAG and BMW) prone to oil consumption.

in order to cope with such a task, you will have to study the list of popular tools that allow you to perform decarbonization, their characteristics, properties, reviews of real use, as well as the instructions for the procedure.

Why do you need decoking

The first logical question that arises among novice car owners is why decarbonize the internal combustion engine at all? The second - how can you actually clean the CPG and KShM? Coking of rings reduces their mobility, deposits on the piston reduce the volume of the combustion chamber, and carbon deposits on the valves do not allow them to work properly, which leads to oil consumption, scuffing on the cylinder walls, a decrease in ICE power, burnout of valves, and as a result - capital repair. Therefore, the main task of decarbonization is to remove carbon deposits on top of the piston, stir up the rings and clean the oil channels.

Such a regular procedure will eliminate the breakdowns resulting from the appearance of deposits. namely, detonation will disappear and a slight dispersion of compression across the cylinders will level out. But in order to get rid of the bluish, typical oil smoke, you will also have to eliminate the cause of the ingress of fuel and lubricants into the combustion chamber.

One of the chemicals belonging to the so-called “soft” or “hard” groups of raskoskovok will help to cope with the products of the deposit. It is worth noting that each of them has both its pros and cons.

10 best decarbonizers

Taking into account only the results of real application and cost, and not advertising campaign, we will compile a list of 10 products from different price categories, applications and methods of dealing with soot. Note that all of them are suitable for both gasoline and diesel internal combustion engines, since there is no fundamental difference. There may be only a layer of soot, more or less.

So, what kind of decarbonization is better to choose from all those on the market? Tests that showed good results and the number of positive reviews made it possible to build popular tools in this order:

Means	Price	Decarbonization method	Method	Application option	Application area	Additional procedures
Mitsubishi SHUMMA	1500R.	rough	chemical	without opening	piston group	you need to change the oil and filter, and a drop of oil in the cylinders
GZox	500R.	soft	chemical	without opening	piston group	Need an oil and filter change
Kangaroo ICC 300	400R.	soft	chemical	without opening	piston top and rings	Need an oil and filter change
GOD Verylube	800R.	rough	chemical	without opening	piston top and rings	you need to change the oil and filter, and a drop of oil in the cylinders
Greenol REANIMATOR	900R.	tough	chemical	unopened and/or specific details	piston top and rings	need to change the oil and filter, as well as clean the sump
Lavr ML-202	400R.	rough	chemical	unopened and/or specific details	piston top and rings	Need an oil and filter change
Edial	300R.	dynamic	chemical	without opening	piston group	without oil change, but with spark plug change
Acetone and kerosene	160R.	tough	chemical/mechanical	without opening and with opening	piston and rings	better effect if mixed 1:1 + oil. And last 12 hours.
Dimexide	150R.	tough	chemical	without opening	piston top and rings	only works at 50-80℃
Plate cleaner	300R.	tough	chemical/mechanical	with autopsy	piston and rings	keep no more than 5 minutes

* We did not include solvents that are added as an additive to the fuel for cleaning nozzles (the exception is Edial, because this is really decarbonization), since their effect on soot is minimal, the action is mainly aimed at cleaning nozzles, and not parts of the piston group. 204-SURM-NM is also located, it is poured into the fuel and into the cylinders, but there is very little data about it in order to draw objective conclusions.

** we also want to separately note that we did not include in the rating those decarbonizers that are poured in as an additive to oil (BG-109, LIQUI MOLY Oil-Schlamm-Spulung or Ormex), since their action is effective only in combination, and they wash tanned pistons to no avail.

Hydroperit with water, which some experimenters try to use to remove carbon deposits from pistons, is not recommended. Not only will he not fully cope with this task, but there is also a lot of trouble (you need to connect a dropper to the intake manifold). Hydrogen peroxide can be used as a handy throttle body cleaner. This is the situation with professional solvents, you need skills, otherwise you can get a water hammer.

Cleaning the piston

So, as you can see, not all advertised decarbonizers are universal and worth attention. only the first three products that are poured into the cylinders will help to cope with coked rings and improve the situation with oil consumption. Others will not give such a joyful effect, especially when the situation is neglected. And if we talk about economic means, then it’s even better to use them exclusively for cleaning valves, pistons or an internal combustion engine block during overhaul, but not for decoking an internal combustion engine when oil consumption and compression decrease occur. Because they very aggressive and can corrode paint, aluminum pistons, or the engine block.

In order to understand why, and to learn more about each product, check out the characteristics, application features and reviews of car owners who once tested one or another liquid designed to remove carbon deposits from oil deposits.

Characteristics, features and reviews - rating of the best decarbonizers

Best results when soaking valves and pistons. Where the soot has not eaten away, it will become soft and can be easily removed mechanically.

Mitsubishi Shumma Engine Conditioner Japanese means for decarbonizing internal combustion engines No. 1 in the opinion of the majority of both professional car repairmen and experienced drivers. Mitsubishi Noise Decarbonizer is a petroleum-based solvent, 20% ethylene glycol and mono-ethyl ether, smells like ammonia, is representative of a tough decarbonizer. This cleaner is an active foam designed to clean GDI ICE (direct injection) but actually removes carbon deposits in any ICE. It is introduced into the cylinders through a tube. Aged for 30 minutes, but according to the recommendation, it is most effective with an exposure of 3 to 5 hours. It is not aggressive to valve stem seals.

One cylinder is enough only for decoking an internal combustion engine with a volume of 1,5 liters. Decoking agent copes with carbon deposits on pistons, rings, valves and combustion chambers. It can be used not only without disassembling the internal combustion engine, it can also be used to soak parts of the piston group to remove sludge. The price of Shumma is more than huge, on average about 1500 rubles for a standard 220 ml. balloon. In many regions of Russia, it can be quite difficult to buy. But such excitement is quite justified. And if its application has not yielded results, then it is safe to say that only repairs can already help. Order code - MZ100139EX.

Reviews

• There was an impressive oil consumption, but after a 2-hour stay in the piston, the situation improved significantly. By the way, they write that it is not necessary to change the oil, I advise you to change it anyway, since more than half of the liquid as a result of carbonization went into the crankcase
• I learned about Schumm's decarbonization from a video where tests were carried out using the example of removing carbon deposits from a valve. I decided to test it on my car, the rings lay down. And at the same time, I decided to clean the EGR. The tool coped with the task with a bang, the correct one was not so bad there.
• On my Mitsubishi Lancer, I had to add oil once a week. On the recommendation, I decided to use the original engine cleaner. After cleaning for about five minutes, I tried to start the internal combustion engine. There was a lot of smoke and sludge. As a result, the car drove a little more cheerfully, and for 500 km only 2 mm went on the dipstick.
• There was a big detonation, knowledgeable people suggested that the valves were in soot. Acquired Noise, removed the inlet and popshikal on the intake valve, well, in the cylinders. After 30 minutes, upon inspection, I saw that they had really become clean. After the procedure, the engine stopped shaking, it took swimming speed. I want to warn you that a couple of drops got on the headlight and the body now has traces, I think only polishing can do it.

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1

• Pros:
• Fast and high-quality decarbonization of both rings and valves;
• Can clean deposits on pistons, throttles and EGR;
• It is used both without opening the motor, so it is possible to soak disassembled parts.

• Cons:
• Very expensive;
• Although it doesn’t eat the paint in the pan, it leaves a muddy mark when it gets on a plastic headlight or body.

The effect of cleaning is almost similar to everyone's favorite Noise, only 3 times cheaper. So we can say that this is the best folk remedy for decoking ICE.

GZox Injection & carb cleaner a chemical agent developed by the Japanese company Soft99. Already from the name it is clear that it is intended for cleaning nozzles and carburetors, but it has also proven itself well when decarbonizing internal combustion engines. The instructions do not contain data on how to remove carbon deposits on the pistons, but do not be afraid to use it like other cleaning fluids poured into the combustion chamber.

Contains petroleum solvent and ethylene glycol. It creates an oily film on the surface, so despite being similar to the products from the hard decarbonizing section, the action is much softer. It is recommended to use as a preventive measure every 10 thousand km.

A 300 ml bottle is enough for most cars with ICE 1,5 - 1,8 liters, and also enough for a V-shaped 6-cylinder ICE. According to the test results, it showed that Gzoks perfectly cleans the piston from carbon deposits and is able to stir up the rings. But he still could not open the piston holes cemented with coke. Although the composition is almost similar to the leading one, it still loses a little in performance. More available for sale than Shumma. The average cost is in the range of 500-700 rubles. The Gzoks order code is 1110103110.

Reviews

• It was possible to achieve a result in reducing oil consumption from 1 liter per thousand to a reasonable 100-200 ml. But since decoking with Gzoks is not the direct purpose of the product, the main thing is to follow the sequence: apply to any cylinder for 5 seconds; the first hour to move the shaft every 15 pour; after 1 hour, add the leftovers as well; withstand the composition of 4-5 hours.
• In the public domain it was difficult to find, but the effort was worth it. Piston cleaned almost perfectly. Oil consumption was reduced by 4 times. After 15 thousand km, I want to repeat the same.
• There is experience of using Gzoks decarbonization on several types of internal combustion engines (including VAG) = the result is positive in all cases of use (compression equalization, reduction of oil consumption, improvement of traction and consumption parameters).
• Excellent removal of carbonaceous deposits, pitches and other pollution. But keep in mind that in GZoks - ammonia, which "eats" Aluminum. Cast iron / steel - does not corrode.

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2

• Pros:
• It is used for cleaning the carburetor, throttle valve, injectors and decokes the rings;
• Soft effect on the piston;
• Enough to decoke a six-cylinder internal combustion engine.

• Cons:
• Does not decoke oil channels;
• In view of the turnover of popularity and the level of effect, the price in some stores is sometimes exorbitant.

The best available remedy. An analogue of Gzoksu, it costs less, but it also loses slightly in performance.

Kangaroo ICC300 EFI cleaner and carburetor made in Korea. Like the previous sample, GZox is not a tool specifically for decarbonizing, but nevertheless it does an excellent job with this task. But to open the oil channels with this liquid will not work. A great option for something to eliminate coking after a long car parking when the rings lie.

There are opinions that Kangaroo has a similar composition with top products because it also smells like ammonia, but this is not so. ICC300 cleaner is water based and has good emulsification (oil solubility), it contains: lauryl demethylamine oxide, 2-butoxyethanol, 3-methyl-3-methoxybutanol. It is poured exclusively on warmed up to 70 ℃, for the result it takes about 12 hours.

Low volatility and good at softening sludge. As a result of penetration into the oil and short-term operation of the internal combustion engine after decoking, it favorably affects the flushing of the oil system. To combat deposits of petrified varnish on pistons, Gzoks is slightly worse, but the price is lower, on average it can be bought for 400 rubles. Article for ordering 300 ml. cylinder - 355043.

Reviews

• I bought Kangaroo ICC 300 and decided to immediately check it in action. Arranged a small test — sprinkled on soot on the oil filler neck. Foam formed and everything flowed. Now it shines like new, I am very surprised that the action is so fast.
• I sprayed kangaroo icc300 directly into the removed intake. To clean nozzles and valves. I let the liquid sour for about 10 minutes, then I start to slowly turn the KV so that the kangaroo gets into the combustion chamber and also waited 20 minutes. From the traces on the fabric, I saw that a lot of coke was washed out, but I did not see any changes in the operation of the internal combustion engine.
• There was a slight detonation, after I zapped with the Kangaroo cleaner everything stabilized.
• For 200 km of run after decarbonizing with the Kangaroo ICC300, the internal combustion engine began to work noticeably quieter, a little livelier for acceleration and somehow easier to go. But with oil consumption, the situation worsened after 2000 km.

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3

• Pros:
• Cheaper than other good decoking agents;
• One cylinder can clean the throttle and carbon deposits on the pistons;
• It cleans the oil system well with the amount that seeps under the rings.

• Cons:
• weak effect at room temperature.

VeryLube for raskoksovka (XADO) anticoke refers to a chemical method for removing burnt oil deposits. This aerosol is designed to quickly clean cylinders, pistons and combustion chambers from all types of contaminants (carbon deposits, coke, varnishes, tars), as well as restore mobility to the rings of gasoline and diesel engines. But in reality, it barely copes with cleaning the pistons, not to mention the oil channels. Hadovsky anticoke is much worse than the previous ones, but if used on a not very coked engine, then it is quite worthy of attention. In at least 7 out of 10 cases, when there is a slight discrepancy in the compression readings across the cylinders, it helps. The first start after decarbonization will be very difficult.

An interesting feature of VERYLUBE Anticoke is that it can be used to flush the engine oil system. Therefore, the manufacturer assures that after application it does not require an engine oil change. The consequences after such a procedure have not been studied. So given the dilution of the oil, it is still better to change it as in other cases of applying the hard method.

Contains detergent-dispersant components, aliphatic hydrocarbons. Although safe for rubber products, the manufacturer still recommends avoiding contact with the paintwork.

One can of 250 ml. enough for cleaning a 4-cylinder internal combustion engine, the article of such a tool is XB30033, the average price in Moscow will be 300 rubles. As shown by real tests, this novelty does not perform well. But other packages are also on sale, with a better effect, which, by the way, is positioned not as decoking of internal combustion engines, but of piston rings. Liquid anticoke 320 ml. based on 20 cylinders, but in reality a maximum of 8-10. Order code - XB40011 for 600 rubles. and a 10 ml blister. (dosage per cylinder) - XB40151 worth 130 rubles.

Reviews

• The motor “ate” a lot of oil, which indicates the obvious occurrence of the rings. BUT the use of the decarbonizer Very Lub from Xado did not give a positive effect.
• I decarbonized the piston rings with Verylube Anticoke spray according to the instructions. As a result, at the first start, the smoke was all over the yard, with incomprehensible flakes from the exhaust at high speeds. The internal combustion engine began to work more stable (small dips and flooding disappeared).
• He did a decoking for prevention. ICE 3.5L V6, oil consumption was 300-500g per 5000km. I knew about foam products like Shuma or Gzoks, but they cost more and are not so easy to buy, so I used VeryLube Anticox, which, although not the most effective, is working and cheap. The decoking procedure must be repeated several times. I did it 2 times, poured the product for 30 minutes, 1 bottle was enough. I am satisfied with the result, the compression has almost leveled off.

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4

• Pros:
• There is a choice according to the required volume;
• Used to clean pistons when opening the motor;
• You can immediately flush the engine oil system.

• Cons:
• Poorly effective with strong coking;
• The procedure must be repeated several times in a row.

Decarbonizing Greenol Reanimator professional quickly but not safely removes deposits, washes the piston, restores the mobility of the rings and is able to soften deposits in the oil channels. This Russian product for removing carbon deposits and varnish deposits does not meet international environmental safety standards.

Grinol decarbonizer is active but aggressive. The chemistry contains powerful solvents, namely: selective organic, refined petroleum distillates, functional additives. The owner of cars with a pallet painted inside should refrain from using it. also adversely affects the valve stem seals (the rubber bands simply swell 2 times, but fortunately they can recover overnight).

Greenol will be enough to wash most ICEs, including V6, since the volume of its bottle is 450 ml, which is much larger than most decarbonizers on the market. It copes with average coking by 5 minus. in order to achieve the maximum effect, not only do you need to decoke on a warm engine, but also pour 50-80 ml at once (or how much will go in), and top up in the process of evaporation and seepage.

Reviews

• Before flushing, the ICE was troiled and one candle was thrown with oil. I spent an hour and a half on the procedure. Now it works smoothly.
• For a week there was a burning smell in the cabin from chemistry. Apparently burned, but it's a trifle.
• the car stopped smoking. Stopped eating a little less. The compression has risen and leveled off, it works smoother until I found no minuses. I'm thinking of cracking it again.
• After the first 1 km of Greenol decoking, the oil level is still at its maximum. And before that, the consumption was 300 grams.
• Very powerful was the bitter experience of peeling the paint and clogging its oil receiver mesh 🙁 You need to handle it carefully!

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5

• Pros:
• A large volume is enough to decoke a 3,5 liter internal combustion engine;
• Good when using individual parts (valves, cylinders).

• Cons:
• Corrodes paint;
• Aggressive to rubber parts.

Decarbonizer LAVR ML-202 the most hyped domestic liquid for removing carbon deposits from pistons, its grooves and rings without disassembling the internal combustion engine. But as real results show, its action at the level of acetone with kerosene is very mediocre. Although it creates a much more aggressive environment.

The product Lavr ML202 Anti Coks Fast belongs to the hard way of decoking. It is a complex of surface-active as well as directional solvents of different chemical nature. Designed to act on tar-coke and soot deposits. In the course of repeated tests, practice has shown that after Laurus, soot still remains. And the piston can be completely cleaned only mechanically. So, unfortunately, it does not have all the properties declared by the manufacturer.

Decarbonizing with LAVR necessarily requires an oil change, therefore it is recommended to use it before scheduled maintenance. The attached instructions, Lavr provides for pouring into cylinders of 45 ml. and literally for 30-60 minutes, but such a short period is maintained exclusively for express cleaning with regular use. But when the case is neglected, there are significant symptoms of coking of pistons and rings, then at least 12 hours are needed. The maximum stay of liquid in the cylinder is no more than 24 hours. Indiscriminately cleans carbon deposits in the chamber and on the working surfaces of the pistons. Although this is not the main task of the application. The most important thing is to decoke the oil scraper rings. The amount of fluid is calculated for decoking a motor with a volume slightly above 2.0 liters. The article for ordering 185 ml is LN2502.

Reviews

• After advice on the effectiveness of decarbonization, the Lavr ML-202 on the forum decided to test it for myself on a Skoda with a TSI engine. Maslozher was almost a liter per thousand. The internal combustion engine began to run quieter, but the reduction in oil consumption was short-lived.
• the car ran 150 thousand. I poured it into the cylinders and left all this slurry for 10 hours, as a result there was almost no effect. The remnants pumped out with a syringe turned brown slightly, and there was also little sludge on the rag when scrolling. The car really did not want to start up and the compression dropped from 15 to only 14 (at the prescribed 12 kgf / cm2). Of course, I didn’t look at the situation from the inside with an endoscope, but when I looked through it with a flashlight, I saw that the pistons weren’t particularly washed off.
• He decoked with laurel in front of the capital, in principle, an autopsy showed that the remedy was working.
• I tried LAVR on a Honda. Applied according to the instructions, left to sour for the night. After decoking, the first attempts to start the internal combustion engine were unsuccessful. After starting, white smoke came out of the exhaust pipe. Plus a characteristic stench. After changing the oil, I drove for 20 minutes at a speed of 120. As a result, the traction improved, starting the engine became easier.

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6

• Pros:
• No need to look for instructions for use, it comes with a syringe and a straw.

• Cons:
• Exclusively prevention, therefore it is not effective for the occurrence of rings and oil consumption.

Decarbonizing EDIAL is a fuel additive, which is why it is referred to as a “soft” cleaning method. Therefore, you can not change the oil, but it is still recommended to change the candles. The tool is designed to remove carbon deposits from the details of the combustion chamber.

Edial decarbonizer does not contain alkalis, acids or solvents. Unlike liquids poured directly into cylinders, it can not only remove coke from pistons and rings, but also clean valve seats and spark plugs from valve deposits. The drug contains active reagents and surface-active additives (surfactants), which have a huge penetrating power. But unfortunately, this still does not help him clean the rings and oil channels from varnish deposits.

One bottle of 50 ml in the calculation of 40-60 liters of fuel. And it can be both gasoline and diesel. Edial decarbonization is equally effective for these two types of ICE. According to the characteristics declared by the manufacturer, it creates an active protection in the form of a thin film on the surface of the parts of the piston group, which prevents the appearance of carbon deposits. Activation of detergent additives occurs in motion over 60 km/h. You can buy from one of the official representatives of EDIAL products.

Reviews

• Decided to check Edial. I poured half a bottle of 20 liters into the tank and drove off. “Miracles” began to happen after 100-150 km around the city. the car became more dynamic.
• Filled up and went out of town. According to general observations, there was little smoke, but before it smoked like a steam locomotive. Fuel consumption also dropped. Mileage 140 thousand km.
• Lots of hype and buzz about this “perfect” decarboniser. This is a common additive, of which there are many from other companies: STP, LIQWI MOLLY, etc. In reality, it can only remove carbon deposits on the valves, and then if you apply it regularly, and when there is already a layer, it’s too late ...

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7

• Pros:
• No oil change required after application;
• Cleaning happens in motion;
• No special instructions are required.

• Cons:
• Exclusively prevention that does not allow to stir up the rings if they lie down;
• You need at least half a tank of fuel in order to proportionally pour the agent and roll it out.

Decarbonizing with acetone and kerosene this is an old “old-fashioned” working method that worked quite well on VAZ engines with Soviet quality fuel and oil. But progress does not stand still. A mixture of kerosene and acetone is often improved with oil or other chemicals. Like decarbonization, laurel has a “hard” nature of cleaning from coke and varnish formations. To prepare a liquid, it should be assumed that it will take about 150 ml per cylinder. In the combustion chamber, as well as other means of this group, pour into a hot engine, and a small amount of oil will improve the effect, it will not allow it to evaporate quickly. Allows you to reduce oil consumption, improve dynamics, get rid of detonation caused by incomplete combustion of the fuel mixture.

It is imperative to change the oil, since Kerosene and acetone are aggressive to oil, therefore, after the procedure, it is imperative to change the lubricant. At the first start and gassing, for the period until the remains of the mixture and soot are burned, it is better to put in old candles so as not to spoil the new ones.

Decoke kerosene + acetone “cure” the occurrence of piston rings due to soot or after a long downtime of an immobilized car. And also in such a liquid they set the parts of the piston group to sour when cleaning deposits when the engine is disassembled for a major overhaul. Since a lot of cleaning agent is required, and the price of decarbonization is not small. Therefore, preparing a liquid with decoking properties is one of the best options to save the budget.

In order to decarbonize with acetone and kerosene, 250 ml are needed. each solvent, and then add the oil. The mixing ratio is 50:50:25. In total, such a mixture will cost 160 rubles.

Reviews

• I bought a car with a high oil consumption, I wanted to start capitalizing, but I decided to first produce the old-fashioned decarbonization: acetone and kerosene 50/50. I poured 50 grams into any cylinder (for candles) for 2-3 minutes, then another 50 grams and turned the engine by the pulley (you can wheel) in 5th gear, then poured it in for the night. He started it, opened the air vent, it’s not like there was soot as it was before with large drops of oil flying out, there’s even no steam from the breather. If anyone wants to try this method, then let me remind you that you need to change the oil, since kerosene and acetone will partially go into it and it may soon curl up!
• After decoking with acetone and kerosene for the first 5 km, the engine sometimes sneezed and twitched, but after driving onto the track, it gained a “second youth”. It began to work smoothly, it responds cheerfully to the accelerator pedal and noticeably added power. I would like to note that it is worth adding oil to this mixture. It allows you to better keep this "mix" from flowing into the crankcase, and reduces the evaporation of acetone.
• On the Audi A4 2.0 ALT 225 thousand kilometers there was a terrible oil burner - 2 liters per 1 thousand km. After such a cleaning, I have already traveled 350 km and not a single gram of oil has gone, everything is level. The machine does not smoke, and the burning smell is gone. While satisfied.
• I did it in the old grandfather way - kerosene with acetone and oil in equal proportions. As a result, the compression became an order of magnitude better, as well as the oil consumption immediately decreased.
• With a mileage of over 300 km. The result exceeded expectations - oil consumption fell to 000 grams per 100 km. Lil 1000% oil, 50% kerosene, 25% acetone.

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8

• Pros:
• Budget improvised mix, which is in every garage;
• It can be used for mechanical cleaning without worrying about consumption.

• Cons:
• Limited properties.

Decarbonizing with dimexide should be made with extreme caution as it is a volatile synthetic drug. Dimethyl sulfoxide (Dimexidum) SO (CH3) 2 - is a sulfur-containing organic compound. Very hygroscopic liquid with a slight specific odor. It turns into ice when the temperature outside drops below 10 degrees Celsius.

This drug only works when it is warm or hot. Therefore, if they are cleaned by soaking individual parts, the container is placed in a warm place, but if this acid is poured into the cylinders, then only in a hot internal combustion engine, and when it cools down, it is pumped out. But not all engines can be decarbonized with dimexide. This drug is able to corrode the paint, painted from the inside, the oil pan, but it is inert to aluminum. After the procedure, it is mandatory to not only change the oil but also flush the internal combustion engine flushing lubricant.

With a risk, dimethyl sulfoxide can be poured into the oil as a BG additive. Exclusively for hot and oil not lower than the viscosity of 5w40 in the proportion of 5-10% of the total volume of the oil system. And then let the internal combustion engine run for half an hour at idle or no more than 2000 rpm. It does not mix with motor oil, unlike ethanol, acetone or castor oil. So there is a danger of liquefaction and oil starvation.

Due to the fact that decarbonization with dimexide is quite dangerous, both for internal combustion engines and causes irritation of human skin, they try to work with rubber gloves, using it to soak an already removed piston. To combat soot and deposits, about 5 100 ml will be required. bottles of dimethyl sulfoxide. You can buy at any pharmacy, the cost of one is about 50 rubles.

Reviews

• A small oil burner was observed. Filled the chambers completely almost up to the neck. After half an hour decoking on a hot engine (with a mixture of dimexide, nefras and acetone), everything went smoothly. The engine stopped eating oil.
• Filling the dismantled piston with dimexide at room temperature is to no avail. But if you fill it in and put it near the heater, wrapping it up so that it doesn’t evaporate, it will be more efficient, but not so much as to give up special chemicals, because to achieve what you want, you will have to dismantle the pistons, although many pour it directly into the cylinders. But I didn't because he is very aggressive!
• I found out about Dimexide and its ability to dissolve coke by chance on some site. I decided to check what kind of animal, because. I was immediately disappointed in the washing abilities of all kinds of washings, but when I warmed it up, all the coke corroded.
• Dimexide from the exhaust will stink for a long time, I already have more than 500 km after decoking the smell of dead cats, but the working engine has stopped eating oil.

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9

• Pros:
• Issue price 70 rubles per 100 ml;
• Corrodes absolutely all the coke on the pistons;
• Can also be used to flush the oil system.

• Cons:
• Begins to crystallize (freeze) at positive temperatures;
• After application, it is in the combustion chamber that the exhaust gases will have a terrible smell for a long time;
• The drug is aggressive to the paint.

Decarbonizing with plate cleaner, as many car owners have discovered, it also copes very well not only with household soot, but also with deposits on the parts of the piston group and cylinder head. But when using it, there are a lot of nuances.

First - it will not be so much decoking, as much as cleaning, since it is not poured into the cylinders, but it is the pistons themselves or other surfaces of the internal combustion engine that have a strong carbon deposit that are processed. Second - all cleaners for stoves and ovens contain alkali (caustic soda or sodium hydroxide), which can damage the protective oxide film. In this case, aluminum will become vulnerable to oxidation when interacting with water. On the pistons, this influence is displayed by the fact that they darken. Therefore, it is categorically not recommended to withstand such a composition for longer than 5 minutes! The third - aggressive not only to aluminum and coke on the piston, but also to human skin, so be sure to handle it with rubber gloves.

Test tests of decarbonizers showed that the most effective and best means for such a procedure are: American Amway Oven Cleaner and Israeli Shumanit. These products contain: surfactants, solvents, sodium hydroxide.

The cost of removing carbon deposits from each piston is very small, and often the product is rubbed with a stiff brush. Unfortunately, it is very difficult to get into the grooves, so a small amount of coke can still remain under the rings. Such products are in the kitchen of every housewife, so the price of decarbonizing with a stove cleaner will be a penny. Well, if not, you can buy it at any hardware store. Bagi Shumanit stove cleaner 270 ml, order code BG-K-395170-0, will cost an average of 280 rubles, and Amway Oven Cleaner oven gel 500 ml. art. 0014, will be more expensive - 500 rubles.

Reviews

• I washed off the carbon deposits on the pistons (removed from the engine) with a “shumanit” plate cleaner. The result is amazing ... Washed everything to a shine. True, you need to be careful not to leave the solution on aluminum for more than 10 seconds, and it should not get on your hands - a very vigorous mixture. I didn’t use any brushes ... I just sprinkled the product, let it soak in for 5-6 seconds and then wiped it with a cloth. it took 15-20 minutes for any piston.
• I decoked the rings first with “Titan” with zero effect, and then I took the “Flat” cooker, oven and microwave cleaner in the kitchen - and went nuts. The liquid immediately darkened. Small pieces of soot began to float in it. He took a toothpick and chatted a little ring. Almost everything on it fell off. He pulled it out, wiped off the remnants of Flat-a and soot with a rag - the ring is clean and shiny. It all took about 3 minutes.
• I cleaned the pistons with this thing for stoves ... “Sana” is called, Nagar was completely removed, but the pistons quickly darkened and became, as it were, a little rough.
• The people were faced with the problem of soot on the piston, in general, the tool for cleaning soot from barbecue grills helps very well, it costs about 100 r. enough for 4 pistons.
• I found some kind of crap from gas stove soot ... poured it on the piston and poured hot water ... Went into the room to get dressed, get ready for work ... returned, went to pour tea and stared at something at the jar with the piston ... The liquid inside became TERRIBLY BLACK ... Pulled out the piston and O GOD He's PURE... I was just in shock. It just went badly in some places: in the grooves of the piston rings and oil grooves ...

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10

• Pros:
• It costs less than any means for decarbonization;
• It can be used not only to clean the pistons but also the head of the block.

• Cons:
• Exclusively on a disassembled internal combustion engine;
• All cleaners for stoves, ovens and barbecues are aggressive to aluminum;
• Poorly cleans in the grooves of the piston rings and oil grooves.

All those means for decarbonizing, whether it be a gasoline or diesel internal combustion engine, about which the manufacturer claims that they do not affect the oil and after their use it is not necessary to change it, is only a marketing slogan.

After such a procedure, it is recommended to always change both the oil and the candles, even more so, it is better to flush the internal combustion engine with diesel fuel, and then flushing oil.

It is worth noting that for all those products that are designed to be poured specifically into the combustion chamber, the principle of decarbonization is the same. And it can differ only in endurance inside. Some manufacturers of decarbonizers recommend keeping the product for no more than 2-3 hours, since it works exclusively on hot. And also periodically make a small movement of the crankshaft (± 15 °), this will contribute to better penetration of the liquid under the piston rings and their rebound. Otherwise, all the compounds are poured into a warm, but not very hot engine, and after some time the residues are pumped out, the cylinders are purged or the HF is scrolled (with five-second starter starts).

For the best effect, professionals recommend decoking the car's internal combustion engine in two stages: first, use the BG 109 oil system flush (let it run for 20 minutes at operating speed and 40 at idle) - it sets the rings well and cleans the oil channels, and then it is the tool itself for removing. It is not worth using a decoking fluid only for an oil system or a fuel system without use, the one that flows into the combustion chamber. In those cases where a large oil consumption was observed, in addition to these two stages, it is also worthwhile to carry out the third one - to eliminate the cause of the “oil burner” (often replace the caps).

In summarizing…

Carry out decarbonization every 20 thousand km. The main indicator is the spread of compression across the cylinders. That is, so that the stuck rings do not become the reason for a grandiose repair, you need to carry out preventive maintenance and monitor the internal cavity of the internal combustion engine, just as you monitor the health of your teeth. Because if you pour chemistry into the cylinders, when everything is already bad there, then you can only do harm. There is a chance that after decoking the car will not start at all. This often happens when rings that are heavily worn and with a lot of soot are stuck.