Drain and replace motorcycle oil filter

Engine maintenance includes basic oil and filter changes. The oil wears out and loses its quality, the filter retains impurities and becomes saturated over time. Therefore, their regular replacement is necessary. As long as the basic principles are followed, this little work is not a problem.

Difficult level: easily

Equipment

– Oil canisters are required.

– New filter specifically for the motorcycle.

– Good quality oil wrench.

– Special tool to remove your filter.

– A bowl of sufficient capacity.

– chiffon.

- Funnel.

1- Draining

Find a drain plug and a good quality wrench size to unscrew. Install the cuvette correctly and then loosen the lid. When looking at a screw or nut, loosening is counterclockwise. But you are at the top of the engine, the cover is on the other side. When viewed from above, change the action and apply the easing clockwise (photo 1 a opposite). If in doubt, lie on the ground, look at the engine from below and loosen it. After the drain screw comes out, if the engine is hot, watch out for spilled oil (photo 1b below) on your hands so as not to burn yourself at a temperature of about 100 ° C. It is not necessary to drain a hot engine, but cold oil is drained more slowly. Let the motor drain into the bowl. If draining from the side stand without the control box, straighten the motorcycle for a few seconds and put it back down to complete draining.

2- Clean, tighten

Thoroughly clean the drain plug and its gasket from all contamination (photo 2a below). If it is not flawless, insert a new one to avoid the formation of dirty dirt. Given the low cost of this filling, it is better to plan its systematic replacement (photo 2b below). The drain plug is tightened with the necessary effort, without entering the beast. We have seen drain plugs so tight that they were extremely difficult to remove afterwards.

3- Replace filter

There are two types of oil filters: a paper filter, which is less common than an automobile-type leaf filter. Whatever your filter may be, place a bowl under it before opening it. The paper filter element is housed in a small housing. Remove the fastening screws from the small cover. When removing the filter element, pay attention to its position, because these filters often have an asymmetrical orientation, which must be observed when reassembling. Pay attention to the place of the washer and the retaining spring (they are found on some Yamaha or Kawasaki). Place a small cloth on the surface of the crankcase gasket. Check the condition of this gasket, replace it if a new one comes with the filter. Depending on its location on the engine, the sheet metal filter can be operated with one of a variety of universal tools or a small cap size calibrated for your filter (Photo 3a) that is operated with a conventional wrench. In our case, a simple universal tool was enough (photo 3c opposite). When reassembling, lubricate the rubber seal of the new cartridge (photo 3d below) to improve its seal. Tightening the cartridge by hand, without tools, must be very muscular to avoid the risk of leakage. Therefore, do not press down on the lever of the tool. If you are in doubt about the effectiveness of the tightening, try to loosen it.

4- Fill in and complete

The manufacturer indicates the volume of oil with a filter change. This amount should not be strictly adhered to, because the engine oil is never completely drained, there is always some oil left in it. Add the required amount of new oil to the maximum level, which can be checked on the dipstick or sight glass. Close the filler cap and start the engine. Let it run for two to three minutes. Cut open, let the oil stand for a few seconds, then check the level. Finish exactly to the maximum mark.

5- How to choose oil?

Multigrade oil does not have the magical power to change viscosity and be thicker than cold oil, giving it one grade in winter and another in summer. This trick comes from the fact that the first number, followed by the letter W, indicates the viscosity of a cold engine, temperatures from -30 ° C to 0 ° C. The second number indicates the viscosity measured at 100 ° C. There is nothing to do between them. The lower the first number, the less cold oil "sticks" to help the engine start. The higher the second value, the better the oil is resistant to high temperatures and harsh operating conditions (figure B). Please note that 100% synthetic oils are significantly more effective than mineral based oils with synthetic additives.

Not to do

Throw the drain oil anywhere. If 30 million cars and a million motorcycles circulating in France did the same, the Erica oil spill would be a joke by comparison. Drain the used oil container into the empty container (s) of a new one and return it to the store where you bought the oil, where you can collect the used oil according to the regulations. Thus, the oil will be recycled.