Knock when turning the steering wheel
Machine operation

Knock when turning the steering wheel

Knock when turning the steering wheel indicates a problem with the vehicle's steering system. The reasons for knocking can be breakdowns at the constant velocity joint (CV joint), ball joint, wear of the steering tip and / or thrust bearing, stabilizer struts and other breakdowns. Be that as it may, when a knock is heard when turning the steering wheel, it is necessary to diagnose as soon as possible, since breakdowns in the steering system not only worsen over time, but can also lead to emergency situations when the car is moving, up to an accident.

Causes of knocking when turning the steering wheel

There are a number of reasons why a knock is heard when turning the steering wheel. In order to more accurately determine the breakdown, you need to decide on three circumstances:

  • Sound type. It can be single or repetitive, dull or voiced (usually metallic), loud or quiet.
  • The place from which the sound comes. For example, in a wheel, in a suspension, in a steering wheel.
  • Circumstances of occurrence. namely, when driving, when turning the steering wheel in place, with the steering wheel turned all the way out, when turning left or right.

Based on such data, you can focus on the source of the knocking sound.

Knock placeReasons for knocking
Knock on the wheelPartial failure of the angular velocity hinge (torn boot, problems with the bearing), noise from steering tips / steering rods, steering rack when driving on rough roads, shock absorber struts (spring knocks), stabilizer struts
Reiki knockDamage to the rack shaft, increased play of the bushing and / or shaft bearings, on machines with EUR mechanical damage to the internal combustion engine shaft and / or worm drive, wear in the steering shaft cardan shaft
Knock on the steering wheelPartial failure of the steering rack, rusting of the drive shaft of the rack, in the EUR, the wear of the worm drive and / or mechanical problems with the electric engine.
Steering positionReasons for knocking
When turning the steering wheel all the way (left / right)When replacing the front arm, it is possible that the arm will hit the subframe when turning. Sometimes the craftsmen simply do not fully tighten the fasteners, which creak when turning.
When turning the steering wheel while the vehicle is stationaryDefective steering rack, drive shaft cross, loose fasteners, tie rods / tips
When turning the steering wheel while drivingThe same reasons as when the car is parked, but problems with the stabilizer struts and shock absorber struts are added here.

further is a list of reasons why a knock appears when turning in the area of ​​\uXNUMXb\uXNUMXbthe wheel, suspension and steering wheel according to their prevalence.

Constant-velocity joint

With the wheels completely turned in one direction, the CV joint will most often creak (it may even give blows to the steering wheel). When turning the car to the left, the right outer CV joint will crunch / knock, and when turning to the right, respectively, the left. Internal CV joints usually squeak when driving at high speed on rough roads, so they have nothing to do with knocking when turning. So if a knock is heard when turning or sharp acceleration of the car, the external hinge most likely needs to be replaced. However, for starters, you can remove and inspect - if there is no wear or it is small, then SHRUS grease will help.

Steering ends and tie rods

Tips and traction due to natural wear over time can give play and creak and make knocks when turning the car. To diagnose the steering tips, you need to jack up the car from the side where the annoying sound comes from and first remove the wheel. then you need to shake the rods and tips, check for backlash in them. It often happens that its anther is torn on the tip, respectively, dirt and moisture get inside. This causes a corresponding knock.

There are cases when, for example, when performing a wheel alignment operation, a motorist or a master forgets to tighten the fixing nut between the steering rod and the steering tip. Accordingly, when turning the steering wheel, both in motion and in place, a loud metallic knock will be heard. You can determine more precisely if you shake the front wheel left and right with your hands, it will hang out and make similar sounds.

Steering rack

steering rack failures are one of the most common reasons why there is a knock when turning the wheels. And this can be both in motion and when turning the steering wheel in place. There are several reasons why the steering rack of a car may knock:

  • Loosely tightened steering gear fasteners.
  • The plastic support sleeve has failed (significantly worn out, play has appeared).
  • The occurrence of play in the bearings of the rack shaft.
  • Increased gap between the teeth of the steering rack (this leads to both play and a thud when turning the steering wheel in place).
  • An anti-friction gasket is being developed, which causes the clamping “cracker” to vibrate, knocking precisely on the rack body.

It is not easy to understand that the steering rack is knocking, and not another element of the steering mechanism. To do this, you need to turn off the engine, put the car on the handbrake, and ask your partner to drive. And most climb under the car at the location of the steering rack. When the steering wheel is rotated with a faulty rack, creaking (crunching) sounds will come from it.

Steering universal joint

If turning the steering wheel you hear a knock from the steering column, then the steering wheel shaft cardan is most likely to blame. Very often, UAZ owners face such a problem. A breakdown occurs due to an increase in the gap in the spline connection. On VAZs, a knock from the steering column appears due to a broken cardan cross. It can be heard both during driving while driving, and when turning the steering wheel back and forth in place.

You can check it with your hand - one needs to be held by the cardan, the second is to turn the steering wheel, if there is backlash, then repair is needed.

Many owners of domestic front-wheel drive VAZs - "Kalina", "Priors", "Grants" are faced with the fact that over time the cross begins to creak in the carriage shaft. Its diagnostics is carried out according to the procedure described above. If backlash and creaking are detected, a car enthusiast can do one of two options. The first is to buy a new cardan, the second is to try to repair the installed one.

Moreover, they are repairing not because of the high price, but a large number of marriages of new cardan shafts. The point is, namely, that the cardan can “bite”. This is due to the fact that its half with splines is seizing, jerks are already felt at the new part. Accordingly, when buying a new cross, you need to make sure that it moves freely in all directions. It often happens that in a fork with splines, the bearings are initially warped due to misalignment of the holes. Therefore, it is up to the car owner to decide whether to buy a new cardan or not.

Another way out of the situation is to replace the existing needle bearings in the cardan shaft with caprolactane bushings. This option is supported by the fact that many VAZ taxi drivers, due to the fact that they have to turn the steering wheel a lot, do just that.

This option implies the complexity of the repair work. As for dismantling, they usually use 13 keys for this, as well as a flat screwdriver.

Please note that in order to knock out the bearings, you need to hit the base of the fork under the bearing. You need to beat gently with a small hammer.

On the Internet, you can find a lot of conflicting reviews about various cardan shafts and bushings. For VAZ “Kalina”, “Priora”, “Grant” cars, crosspieces of the trade marks “CC20” and “TAYA” are often installed, or a more expensive option - Japanese spare parts Toyo and GMB.

Shock absorber struts and / or thrust bearings

If the reason for the knock lies in shock absorbers or support bearings, then there will be knocks not only when the steering wheel is turned to the right / left, but also when driving in a straight line. However, during sharp turns, especially at high speeds, this knocking will be more pronounced, since additional loads will act on the shock absorbers and bearings.

In the latter case, a broken shock absorber spring may be the cause of the knock. This usually happens at its edges (top or bottom). Accordingly, when driving on a rough road, as well as when the car rolls in corners, the driver may hear a metallic clanging sound. When turning to the left - the right spring, when turning to the right - the left spring.

You can check the shock absorbers and bearings by examining them for backlash. To do this, you need to dismantle the wheel and stagger / twist the shock absorbers and bearings. In rare cases, the knock may be caused by a loose nut.

Front stabilizer

With a partial failure of the stabilizer strut, a thud is heard when the wheels are turned in motion. Moreover, the wheels begin to knock if they are turned in one direction or the other at approximately 50 ... 60%. However, it is a faulty rack that can creak not only when turning, but also when the car is moving on a rough road. Often, the car also “fidgets” along the road, that is, you need to constantly control (twist) the steering wheel. Additional signs - the car body rolls too much when entering a turn and sways when braking.

Subframe (atypical situations)

Sometimes atypical situations lead to knocking when turning, which are quite difficult to diagnose. For example, a case is known when, while a car was moving, a small stone fell on the subframe and got stuck there. When the steering wheel is turned in one direction or the other, the elements of the steering gear naturally move, while they seem to run into this stone. When restoring the original position, the elements jumped off the stone, making a characteristic sound. The problem was solved by removing the stone.

When repairing suspension components, for example, when replacing the front arm, the latter may touch the subframe when turning the wheel. Naturally, this is accompanied by a blow and a rattle. in order to get rid of it, it was enough to raise the subframe with a mount.

If you frequently drive on poorly paved roads, it is helpful to periodically inspect the suspension and steering components. This will allow you to diagnose the breakdown at an early stage, and therefore save on subsequent repairs.

Also, one atypical situation of knocking in the suspension when cornering is that the subframe bolt is unclenched, and the subframe itself can knock when driving, and even more so when cornering. It is eliminated by clamping the corresponding bolt.

Hack and predictor Aviator

It is not safe to drive a car that makes a noise when the steering wheel is turned. Any breakdown that leads to this will only get worse over time, eventually leading to complex costly repairs as well as driving hazards. Therefore, if a knock is detected when turning the wheel, it is necessary to diagnose as soon as possible and take appropriate measures to eliminate the cause that caused it.

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