Assembling the Beringer brake

As the benchmark in braking, Beringer has long combined performance with build quality. Following the takeover of the company by the automotive group Saint Jean Industries, Beringer has developed a new line of more affordable products called Cobapress, which nevertheless uses the technologies of the famous Aerotec. Released in 2011, the line is currently undergoing factory testing. Motorcycle overview... But before moving on to a dynamic report, the first step is to do some editing.

The handicraft is entrusted to Raspo, the renowned trainer, now the Beringer Technical Center on the le-de-France. The link that gives us all the advice on how to brake hard on his bike.

Step 1: unload the front of the motorcycle

Most garages are equipped with a boom and lift for lifting the front of the motorcycle. But it is not always easy to have such equipment at home. In this case, a car jack and a piece of wood must be selected to raise the front of the motorcycle to the level of the engine. The operation is facilitated by the presence of a central post.

Step 2: disassemble the caliper and front wheel

We then start by removing the brake caliper that needs to be replaced. After deposition, platelets are removed without labeling in case they are to be used again. Remember to clean the caliper with a brake cleaner, especially a dry product. When it comes to removing the front wheel, it is very important to note the position of the spacers on the wheel axle. This will prevent the wheel from moving off center during assembly and, as a result, malfunction of the brake system.

Step 3. Unmounting the disk

From a technical point of view, the brake disc is secured with hex socket head screws, commonly referred to as BTR. The brake disc is often clogged, often you have to push it slightly with a measured hammer blow. The same is true when inserting the key onto the screws. When the wheel housing is laid flat, the wrench is pressed all the way in with a slight hammer blow. Precautions to protect you from any risk of tightening the screw with a wrench.

Step 4: take the box

No, not for this stage to put in a heap! But a good handyman always uses boxes to put screws, washers and other small parts when disassembling. This avoids losing ends along the way. In addition, if at the end of the exercise you have a screw left in the box, it means that you forgot something ...

Step 5: check the wheel

After removing the disc, we take the opportunity to check the serviceability of the wheel bearings. He does not eat bread and can prevent future troubles. On motorcycles of a certain age, we also check that the speedometer simulator is well lubricated.

Step 6: Install a new drive

Before reassembling a new disc, a small blow with a wire brush on all mating surfaces will not hurt. Removes impurities and electrolysis. The new disc is then positioned checking its direction of rotation. We then reassemble the screws, previously covered with a small thread lock. For tightening, the screws must be approached one after the other before proceeding with the star tightening. And contrary to popular belief, a brake disc should be perfectly flat. The disc screws should be tightened at least 3,9 kg if you have a torque wrench. And if not, then a courageous delay, but not a grumbling!

Step 7: Disassemble the master cylinder.

Before touching the original master cylinder, it is imperative to protect your motorcycle from the harmful effects of DOT 4 brake fluid because this product is very acidic and tastes like both the body and the seals. Therefore, feel free to protect the steering wheel, tank and mudguard with a wide, thick cloth. If unsuccessful, rinse thoroughly with water. We then open the master cylinder by lightly hitting the screws again with a hammer and a screwdriver with a plastic handle.

Step 8: Bleed air from the brake system.

All garages pump the brakes by sucking in fluid with a compressor. But at home you often have to use the good old pipe and bottle recipe. After opening the bleed screw on the brake caliper, all fluid is drained from the system by swinging the lever. When there is no more fluid, the brake lever is disassembled by removing the brake switch, which is either mechanical and actuated by lever action or hydraulic and then actuated by fluid displacement.

Step 9: Assemble the master cylinder and front wheel.

It's time to reassemble the front wheel after the axle has been well lubricated to avoid electrolysis caused by winter salting and brine. Then we fix the new master cylinder without tightening it, install the brake hose and fix the caliper. For the hose, always use new banjo pads. In fact, these are expandable seals that are designed to be tightened once and once to ensure complete tightness. Don't forget to tasteful and harmoniously position the brake hose as well. Thus, you can use paper and multi-purpose pliers to manipulate the corrugated portion of the hose to create a harmonious bend.

Step 10: fill the master cylinder

Once it's tightened, set the master cylinder aside, open the refill container and pour DOT 4 gently so it doesn't get all over the place. When the liquid is in the vessel, place the wrench on the bleed screw, the tube on the bleed hole is connected to the bottle that already contains the bottom of the DOT 4, so the end of the tube will not be vented. The lever is then pumped with the bleed screw closed to remove the air contained in the brake system.

Step 11: pumping

This step is critical for the correct functioning of the braking system. Once the air has been removed from the circuit, the bleed screw opens by keeping the brake lever depressed. We then immediately close the bleed screw and start pumping again. Then the operation must be repeated until air bubbles cease to rise in the filler neck of the master cylinder and the brake lever becomes stiff.

Step 12: close the jar

Before closing the cover of the master cylinder, it is necessary to lubricate the screws so that they do not jam. Then we squeeze the jar normally. No need to tighten up like crazy, the seal does its job of ensuring the overall tightness.

Step 13: completion

After making sure that the screw box is empty, you can move on to some minor finishing work. You must first connect the brake sensor, test its operation by turning on the motorcycle and taking care of the tightness and working condition of this brake sensor. The brake lever is then positioned at the same height as the clutch lever. Finally, we adjust the free play of the brake lever. After that, all you have to do is ride without forgetting the break-in phase or Raspo's advice (see below).

Raspo's word: www.raspo-concept.com, tel.: [phone].

“I build an average of 3 or 4 Beringer systems a month, and I also do maintenance and online sales. I would say that the assembly of the Beringer system and the overall operation of the brakes represent a difficulty level of 7 to 1 points. You must be methodical and meticulous. And, above all, clean, because DOT 10 is an aggressive product that spreads everywhere and attacks the bike as well as the tools.

After completing the assembly, you must also take care of a good run-in. Because you need to break both the disc and the pads. I must say that the system is new for at least 50 km. And to avoid icing, do not slow down 500 meters at all intersections. It is best to attack the lever by grabbing it openly, without fear, but without blocking the front end!

The best part of the highway without traffic. Moving at a speed of 130 km / h, you frankly brake to slow down to about 80 km / h and repeat the operation several times. It also allows you to adapt to the specifics of the Beringer system, which always seems weak when stationary, since it provides full braking power without having to press the lever like a trap. ”

We will provide you with a report on the operation of the braking system shortly. Boehringerwhen we have accumulated enough kilometers to test it thoroughly.

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