Look inside the drum

The rear axle brakes wear out more slowly than the front axle because they are less stressed, but this does not mean that we should be less interested in them.

Most popular cars have rear mounted drum brakes. The drum must be pressed against the hub only by force wheel bolts or are additionally attached to them with a single bolt, as a rule. In the first case, the removal of the drum should not cause difficulties, unless as a result of the wear process a threshold has formed on the working surface, which will cling to the abrasive lining of the brake pads. In the second, the mentioned drum fastening screw can become an additional problem, especially if no one has tried to unscrew it for a long time, and corrosion has already partially destroyed it. Clumsy attempts to unscrew such a screw usually end in its breakage, and then you should try to unscrew the piece of the screw, and if it doesn’t work out, then drill it and cut the thread in the hole formed (usually you have to do this for a larger size) or, finally, replace the entire hub.

After removing the drum, first remove all dirt from its inside and from the brake elements of the caliper. Then we check the condition of the linings on the brake pads. If they are already worn out, check that their thickness still meets the manufacturer's specifications. In addition, the linings must be evenly worn and free from material loss or contamination from hydraulic fluid or grease. The hydraulic distributor, commonly referred to as the cylinder, must not show the slightest trace of hydraulic fluid leakage. Brake pad springs should not be weakened, let alone cracked.

The working surface of the brake drum, as well as the corresponding surface of the brake disc, must not show signs of damage. An important parameter is the inner diameter of the drum, the permissible value of which is indicated by the manufacturer. Pulsation of the brake pedal when braking without ABS control may indicate a so-called. ovalization of the brake drum.