BMW e46 DSC sensor
Content
Dsc III bmw e46 system repair
Hello. Today we will talk about how I myself discovered and fixed the dsc3 system. The problems started a year ago. In wet weather, the dimensions and brake lights began to turn on. Muffles, you start all the guts. It turned more and more often, as a result it constantly burned out. Made a diagnosis, sentenced the right rear abs sensor. I bought a Bosch for $40 I'm not helping. I went to the disassembly and grabbed an apparently good sensor to throw it away. Didn't work, still throws an error. I touched the wires from the abs unit to the sensor, everything is fine. I went to an electrician. And here are some other errors.
DSC sensor and yaw sensor. I was told that there are a lot of questions, but few answers, maybe anything from a cable to a dsts unit. At disassembly, the electrician is sold without a return, so I didn’t want to experiment, and everything costs money, so to speak. I decided to post the dsc circuit on the net and found a similar but different dsc system.
I decided to find a rotation sensor. It is located under the driver's seat under the carpet. It has 4 wires going to it. I measured the voltage and rang the mass. I don’t remember the colors, but I remember the voltage from 1 to 12 volts, from 2 to 2,5 volts and from 3 to 2,5 volts. That is, the food arrives and the mass is done. So it's the sensor.
I bought a yaw sensor in disassembly for $ 15. I started switching, reset the errors, but again the error hangs, only the other one and the dsts icon and the rest are on.
. Started the car, turned it off and voila, everything went fine.
Now the plinth without a garland))). If you ask me, I will help you.
Steering angle sensor
It all started with the fact that one fine day DSC + BRAKE + ABS (“garland”) turned on on the tidy ...
Diagnostics showed that the problem is in the sliding contact of the steering angle sensor (LWS) ...
Whomever is not in the tank, this same LWS sensor is located below and is placed on the axis of the steering column ...
Initially I wanted to buy a new LWS sensor, but after learning its price, to be honest, just f**k. In addition, it will still have to be systematized and adapted. Nothing terrible, of course, but once again I didn’t want to mess with it. Though I made adjustments later...
What's more interesting, my LWS sensor number (first photo) fits Z8 E52 (ALPINA V8) and MINI JCW Challenge (C-Cup W11) according to ETK on 01.2017. I have not found any information on the applicability of this LWS sensor number to the E46...
And here are the numbers of the LWS sensors, which, according to the same ETK, were installed on the E46 ...
Therefore, at that moment I had a question, why the hell should I produce such a number of numbers in the ETK and constantly change their articles?
Having studied ETK a little, I realized that the difference is only in the hardware (HW) and (or) software (SW) versions. Therefore, the newer the product, the fresher the HW and/or SW version and the possibility of using this LWS sensor on newer vehicles. I think inside all the sensors are the same and haven't changed (but I can't be 100% sure). For example, images of different article numbers of LWS sensors.
A little off topic. After studying the experience of people on the forum (many thanks to everyone), it was decided to restore the performance of my faulty LWS sensor by replacing those same sliding contacts. The forum also has information on where these contacts can be obtained. I didn’t reinvent the wheel and bought two ERA 550485 throttle position sensors from VAZ 2112, they cost a penny (I took one in reserve).
I heated the cap on top with a building hair dryer (the composition holds), twisted it with tweezers and safely removed the contacts I needed. It would be possible, of course, with a hammer or a knife, but I was afraid to overdo it)))
There are two ways to remove this same LWS sensor from the steering column shaft:
- Without removing the steering column (only the LWS sensor and some interfering parts are removed)
- With the removal of the steering column (the entire steering column assembly with all adjacent parts is removed)
I chose the second option for myself. It is easier for me to work when everything is visible and accessible. Although I still had to tweak the doggy/lying position a bit, not at all. Guided by TIS, everything is accessible and understandable. Along the way, everything that was unscrewed was tightened at the right time with a torque wrench.
Unfortunately, it is not possible to fit all the information that I would like to share into one part, so the topic will be divided into two parts. For those interested, here is Part 2.
Brake Force Display BMW Е46
About a year ago, I first learned about this system and that all this can be implemented on the E46. Then I spent about a week, in the end it didn’t work out. Finished the experiments and went quietly. Exactly until the moment when I saw several recent records of the successful activation of this system on other E46s.
A couple more days of office work, a few trips with a laptop in the car, and I won!
During the process, many points and special cases were revealed. The composition, names of encoding parameters and their values change depending on the age of the machine and the version of the blocks, so the same set of parameters can work successfully on one machine and not work on another, that's what I found. This is exactly what I want to talk about.
I think many have seen how in some modern cars, when braking hard, the emergency flasher automatically turns on. So in our E46 they also came up with a similar function!
Brake Force Display (BFD for short) is a brake force display system. It warns rear drivers when abnormal braking occurs, more abrupt than normal.
During hard braking, in addition to the normal brake lights, additional sections in the taillights light up, which makes braking more noticeable. This is called Stage 2 BFD. When braking, the ABS is about to work, and when the ABS is already working, the third brake light under the roof and regular brake lights begin to flash, attracting the attention of those coming from behind and reporting an emergency situation. This is called Stage 3 BFD.
How it works
The dashboard has data on the negative acceleration with which the car is decelerating. It transmits this data to the lighting unit, which turns on the corresponding lamps. Cleaning uses the concept of a threshold value: a certain value at which an event occurs. These values are also called encoders in the encoding parameters. Therefore, as soon as the negative acceleration reaches a certain threshold value (the sensor is triggered), an event occurs on the light block: a certain stage is turned on.
There are 3 threshold values on the instrument panel, we are interested in 2 of them, called "Schwelle 1" and "Schwelle 2". When Schwelle 1 is activated, Stage 2 is activated, and when Schwelle 2 is activated, Stage 3 is activated. The ABS sensor is also highlighted. When ABS is activated, Stage 2+3 lights up.
Stage 2, as I said, includes additional taillight sections in addition to the stock brake lights. Which ones are configurable. In restyling, taillight bulbs can burn with different power. Therefore, the side lights can be brighter than in position mode. For example, I prepped for stage 2 to have the side cutouts go full blast and the rear fog lights.
Pure Stage 3, in turn, is the flashing of the third brake light. For added visibility, you can also choose to flash your regular brake lights.
Here I will describe what parameters need to be changed. I want to note that I have a dashboard unit version 07 (AKMB_C07) and a lighting unit version 34 (ALSZ_C34). All parameters are given for this block version. I don't know how to trust one of the forums, but I read that BFD supports AKMB_C07, C08 and ALSZ_C32.34 and newer blocks. The set of parameters for C32 is also different: some names and values are different. Owners of such blocks, see the link to the Czech forum above.
Always make a backup of a track before editing it so you can recover if something happens. If this is not done, you can leave the FSW_PSW.MAN file empty and encode the block. It is coded by default according to ZCS/FA.
board block
- GRENZWERT_GRUND_SCHWELLE: The aktiv parameter has a data field with a value of 01.9f. This is the threshold of sensitivity. However, I don't know what exactly this threshold affects.
active - GRENZWERT_VERZ_SCHWELLE_1: 01.5f data. This is our first "sensor".
active - GRENZWERT_VERZ_SCHWELLE_2 is our second "sensor". The data value is 00, ff.
active - FZG_VERZOEGERUNG - As far as I understand, this is just a parameter that includes the function to signal the light block in the order.
active
I want to make an optional comment: Schwelle 2 is configured by default in such a way that it is very difficult to call Stage 3 without ABS. With winter or narrow tires, the car will turn on the ABS earlier. Of course, Stage 2 and Stage 3 turn on when ABS is activated, but I don't think it's correct that Stage 3 is set up in such a way that it can't be activated without ABS. It is necessary to make the sensor more sensitive, less sharp.
We see that the lower the value of the Data parameter, the thicker the sensor. Therefore, it is necessary to change the data in the aktiv parameter of the GRENZWERT_VERZ_SCHWELLE_2 option to a larger number. I spied on what value to put in the Z4 track, where the same block of light is. There the factory value of this parameter is 01.1F. So Stage 3 fires before the ABS, right on its edge.
The following parameters implement the basic logic of BFD operation.
- BFD_SW1_STUFE2 - sensor 1 activates stage 2.
active - BFD_SW2_STUFE2 - sensor 2 activates stage 2.
nothing_active - BFD_SW2_STUFE3 - sensor 2 activates stage 3.
active - BFD_ABS_STUFE2 - Activating ABS activates the 2nd stage.
active - BFD_ABS_STUFE3 - Activating ABS activates stage 3.
active - ST3_SCHWEL - I don't know what it is.
nothing_active - BLST1_BLST3 - Make sure the normal stops flash along with the third stop in step 3.
active - BFD_MINDEST_GESCHW - The minimum speed at which BFD is turned on, the default value of the parameter is 0. That is, it works immediately at any speed.
value_02 - BFD_STUFE_2_VERZOEG - stage 2 delay. Default 0, do not touch.
value_02 - BFD_STUFE_2_MAX_EIN: I have no idea.
value_02 - BFD_BLINK_EINZEIT - soft fade time of the lamps, I left the default value.
value_02 - BFD_BLINK_AUSZEIT - Lights turn on on time, also by default.
value_02
Here is the most interesting. Which sections of the rear lights to illuminate in Stage 2.
- PIN29_30_BFD
active - PIN49_37_BFD
active - PIN38_20_BFD
active - PIN5_10_BFD
nothing_active - BEI_NSL_KEIN_BFD - Do not activate BFD when the rear fog lights are on.
active
Please set the following 3 parameters exactly as shown below. By changing the parameters, every time you hit the brake, even almost at a standstill, Stage 2 + 3 will be activated.
This is how it looks on my car. Don't complain about the quality of the video, it's a bit dark =) I didn't insert the dimensions on purpose so that Stage 2 would look better.
Front Body Position Sensor
Regular xenon is a cool thing, of course, but it adds some electronic component, for example, automatic headlight beam adjustment. The system monitors how your body is tilted relative to the road and tries to keep the headlights in the same position. At some point, I noticed that the system was not very willing to turn on the headlights, only during the test. I rarely drive loaded, and no matter how uncomfortable I feel, especially since my headlights are initially a little lower, so our bumpy roads are better visible.
While the car stopped, I went upstairs to see what was wrong with the sensor. So far, only got to the front end, but he has been asking me for a replacement for so long.
Once, when replacing the lever, I broke it. I just forgot he was there. He put the "tire" on the lever. And that was exactly 3 years. When replacing the front shock absorbers, I noticed that the bar was hanging on the hinges. I bought the rod along with other parts, and when I saw it, I was afraid that it might not work. But everything is great! It fits very well!
Replacement is quite simple, it is better to do it from the hole. He pulled out the plug, unscrewed the rods and fasteners, put a new sensor. I needed keys for 10, 13 and a 4mm hex key. Maybe someone already has other keys
After removing the sensor to replace the thrust, it became clear that it was already stuck, and the lever just turned ...
