How to use block plane?

	Wood planers may be lighter, blade pitch may vary, iron adjusters may vary, and there may or may not be mouth adjustment, but using a block planer is essentially the same no matter which one you use.
	Here's Wonka's guide to two jobs you can do with a block planer: end grain planing and chamfering.
End grain planing
	Make sure your block plane is set correctly - see below. How to set up a planer from metal blocks or How to set up a wooden block planer. You need a very shallow iron depth and a narrow neck for face planing.
	You will need a square, a pencil, a piece of wood, a clamp, a workpiece, a carpenter's vice and, of course, a planer.
	Step 1 - Mark the workpiece Using a square and a pencil, mark a line on the workpiece indicating the level to which you want to plan. Continue the line along the edges and on the other side.
	Step 2 - Place the Workpiece in the Vise Place the board in the vise of the workbench with the end of the fiber pointing up with the pencil.
	Step 3 - Attach the scrap wood to the workpiece. Using a rod clamp, secure the spare piece of wood to the end of the workpiece where your planer push will end. This will prevent the far edge from coming off.
	Step 4 - Position the Plane Position the toe of the sole flat at the end of the workpiece where the forward stroke or push is to begin. Make sure that the cutting edge of the iron is in front of the starting edge of the workpiece, and not partially along the edge to be planed.
	Step 5 - First strike forward Take the first stroke forward. You can use the plane with one hand (as shown here). Press the palm of your hand on the rounded part of the lever cover and place your index finger in the recess of the front handle, your thumb in one recess, and the rest in the other.
	Or you can hold the plane with both hands by placing the palm of your dominant hand on the cover of the lever cover, with your thumb and fingers in the dimples, and the thumb of your other hand in the recess of the handle. Whether you use one or two hands will depend on how comfortable your grip is and how hard the workpiece is. Harder wood requires more pressure, and you can push harder with both hands.
	Step 6 - Adjust if necessary Trim straight up to and beyond the far end of the edge you're trimming, and make sure you get an even shave. If this is not the case, or if the planer movement was jerky or difficult, you may need to decrease the iron depth and correct the side adjustment.
	Step 7 - Keep planning Keep making more strokes, regularly checking your progress towards the pencil line. If the scrap to be planed is deeper at one end, make a few shorter strokes at that end to line up with the other end.
	Step 8 - Finish When you have cut to the line and the edge is square with adjoining sides and smooth, the job is done.
	There are other ways to avoid scoring at the far end when planing end grains. One of them is to cut the bevel at the far corner - until you cut the bevel completely, it should protect against breakout when you cut to the line.
	Another way is to plan halfway in each direction. However, it can be more difficult to get a perfectly even edge this way.
	You can also level the end grain with a shooting planer in combination with a hook or shooting board. Although it is based on a different, dedicated plane, see below. What is a gunnery aircraft? for details on how it works.
Chamfer (sharpness of chamfers)
	For this simple bevel, you will need a pencil, a long ruler, and of course a plane and a piece of wood to make the bevel. This will be a simple "through" bevel - one that runs along the entire length of the workpiece. The "stopped" bevel only goes part of the length and requires more specialized tools.
	Before you start, check your block plane setup. You can start by setting the iron depth to about 1.5 mm (1/16 inch) with a medium shed opening (if your planer has a shed adjustment), as you will be planing a very narrow width along the grain with little resistance at the start of the operation.
	Step 1 - Mark the workpiece If you're not sure you can cut a bevel perfectly without a guide line, mark the workpiece with the depth you want to plan to on each side of the corner. Measure and mark carefully to ensure accuracy.
	Step 2 - Fix the workpiece Clamp the workpiece in the vise of the workbench. If it is very long, support may be required at both ends.
	Step 3 - Position the Plane Position the planer at a 45 degree angle to the nearest end of the edge to be chamfered, with the iron cutting edge in front of the wood edge.
	Step 4 - First strike forward You can use the planer with one or two hands. If you are using only one hand, place your palm on the rounded area of ​​the lever cover, place your index finger in the recess in the front handle, your thumb in the recess, and the rest of your fingers in the other recess.
	If you are using the planer with two hands, place the palm of your dominant hand on the lever cover, with your thumb and other fingers in the recesses, and the thumb of your other hand in the recess of the handle.
	Step 5 - Lift and Return At the end of the stroke, lift the plane slightly and return to the starting point.
	Step 6 - Reconfigure Make sure you get consistent shaves. If not, or if the first stroke was not smooth and efficient, check the iron and planer mouth settings and adjust if necessary.
	Step 7 - Keep planning Continue slicing as you work your way up to the pencil lines on each side. Check the angle of the plane - keep it at 45 degrees for a normal bevel - and decrease the ironing depth to about 1mm (1/32″) or less, and close your mouth slightly as the bevel widens.
	Step 8 - Done When you have filed the lines to and the bevel is smooth and at a 45 degree angle along the entire length, the job is done.
	If you are chamfering all the way around (that is, all four edges), remember that two bevels will be on the end fiber, so beware of tearing. You can avoid this by cutting halfway in each direction rather than the entire length of the edge.
	Where bevels meet at corners, aim for perfect beveled edges. If they don't meet at a 45 degree angle, make adjustments.
	If you find planing a perfect bevel difficult (and some carpenters do!), there are some planers that can be equipped with a bevel guide. The adjustable planer neck is removable and replaceable with a guide, making it easy to achieve an accurate 45-degree angle.