Is it possible to wash the car air filter

As you know, automotive internal combustion engines run on gasoline or diesel fuel. For ignition and normal combustion of fuel, air is also needed, or rather, the oxygen contained in it. Moreover, a lot of air is required, the ideal ratio is 14,7 parts of air for one part of the fuel. An air-fuel mixture with an increased fuel content (ratio less than 14,7) is called rich, with a reduced one (ratio more than 14,7) - poor. Both components of the mixture, before being in the cylinders of the internal combustion engine, are cleaned. The air filter is responsible for cleaning the air.

Is it possible without a filter at all? Such a naive question can only arise from an absolute beginner who does not have the slightest idea about the functioning of the internal combustion engine. For those who have ever changed the air filter and seen what gets in there, this would never even occur to them. Leaves, poplar fluff, insects, sand - without a filter, all this would end up in the cylinders and in a short time would bring the internal combustion engine to . But it’s not just about large debris, soot and fine dust visible to the eye. The air filter can also trap moisture in the air and thereby protect cylinder walls, pistons, valves and other parts from corrosion. Thus, it is absolutely clear that the air filter is an extremely important thing, without which the correct operation of a car’s internal combustion engine is impossible. Gradually, the air filter becomes clogged, and at some point the contamination begins to affect its throughput. Less air enters the cylinders, which means the combustible mixture becomes richer. Moderate enrichment initially causes a slight increase in the power of the internal combustion engine, but at the same time fuel consumption also increases. A further decrease in the air content in the air-fuel mixture leads to incomplete combustion of the fuel, which is noticeable by the black exhaust. The internal combustion engine begins to function unstably, and the dynamics deteriorate. Finally, there is not enough air to ignite the fuel, and...

The air filter is a consumable element and, according to the regulations, is subject to periodic replacement. Most automakers indicate a shift interval of 10 ... 20 thousand kilometers. Increased air dusting, smog, sand, building dust reduce this interval by about one and a half times.

So, everything seems to be clear - the time has come, we buy a new filter and change it. However, this does not suit everyone, I want to save money, especially since for some car models the prices for air filters bite. So people have an idea to clean, wash the filter element and give it a second life.

Is it possible? To begin with, let's figure out what an air filter is and what we are going to wash.

Most automotive air filters are in the form of a flat panel or cylinder. In some cases, the design may include a pre-screen, which traps relatively large debris and extends the life of the main filter element. This solution is useful for use in off-road conditions and high dust content in the air. And special equipment operating in special conditions is often equipped with an additional cyclone filter, which pre-cleans the air.

But these design features are not directly related to the issue of flushing. We are directly interested in the filter element, which in most cases is made of special grades of paper or synthetic materials and is arranged in an accordion shape for greater compactness.

The filter paper is capable of capturing particles of 1 µm or larger. The thicker the paper, the higher the degree of cleaning, but the greater the resistance to air flow. For each ICE model, the value of the resistance to the air flow of the filter must be quite specific in order to ensure the optimal operation of the unit. This parameter must be taken into account when selecting analogues.

Synthetic filter material usually has a set of layers with different pore sizes. The outer layer holds large particles, while the inner ones produce finer cleaning.

Thanks to special impregnations, the filter element is able to retain moisture, vapors of gasoline, antifreeze and other substances that may be present in the air and which are very unlikely to enter the internal combustion engine cylinders. The impregnation also prevents the filter from swelling due to high humidity.

A special case is the so-called zero-resistance filters, which are not used on ordinary cars due to their high cost. In addition, they require frequent - every 5000 kilometers - and very thorough maintenance, which includes cleaning, rinsing with a special shampoo and impregnation with a special oil. This is the only kind of reusable air filter that can and should be cleaned and washed. But we are not talking about saving money here at all.

The details of the cylinder-piston group have a precise fit, so even the smallest particles of dust and soot, getting inside the cylinder and accumulating there, will accelerate the wear of the internal combustion engine. Therefore, high demands are placed on the quality of filtration of the air entering the cylinders. This is especially true of internal combustion engines with a turbine, which consume much more air. Relatively speaking, a gauze cloth as a filter is absolutely unsuitable.

Now imagine what the paper filter element will turn into after washing. It is in a gauze rag. The filter is deformed, microcracks and breaks will appear, the porous structure will be broken.

If the washed filter element is reused, the cleaning quality will drop sharply. Large dirt will linger, and small particles of dust and soot will penetrate into the cylinders and settle on its walls, piston, valves. As a result, you will get a time bomb. The negative effects will not be immediately noticeable. At first, the result of washing may please you, but sooner or later the internal combustion engine will “thank” you for such an attitude.

How the impact of detergents will affect the impregnations, one can only guess. They can dissolve or, as a result of a chemical reaction, turn into some kind of substance that completely clogs the pores. And then the air simply will not be able to pass through the filter element.

Dry cleaning is also ineffective. You can shake off relatively large debris, but no blowing, knocking out, shaking out will get rid of the smallest dust stuck in the pores of the deep layers. The filter element will clog even faster, the air pressure will increase, and this is fraught with paper rupture and all accumulated debris entering the internal combustion engine. And then you will spend the money saved on the air filter on the overhaul of the internal combustion engine.

Dry cleaning is justified only in one case - the filter was not replaced on time, the car died out and you need to at least temporarily revive the internal combustion engine in order to get to the garage or car service.

If the presented arguments convince you, then you don’t need to read further. Buy a new one and install it instead of the used element. And those who think differently can continue reading.

The recommendations below are a product of folk art. Application is at your own risk. There are no official instructions and there cannot be.

And no matter how hard you try, the restored element will be significantly worse than the new one in the following indicators:

- degree of purification;

- resistance to air flow;

— pore sizes;

- throughput.

With any cleaning method, the filter material must be handled very carefully so as not to damage it. Do not rub, do not crush. No boiling water, no brushes and the like. Washing machine is not good either.

Dry cleaning

The filter element is carefully removed from the housing. Make sure that debris does not get into the air duct.

Large lumps of debris are removed by hand or with a brush. then the corrugated paper needs to be functioned with a vacuum cleaner or a compressor. Blowing with a compressor is preferable. The vacuum cleaner may draw in the filter element and damage it.

Spray cleaning

After dry cleaning, spray the cleaning spray over the entire surface of the filter element. Leave for a while to allow the product to function. Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Dry without the use of heating devices.

Wet cleaning with cleaning solutions

Place the filter element in an aqueous solution of washing gel, dishwashing detergent or other household cleaner. Leave for a set of hours. Rinse with warm but not hot water. Air dry.

In car dealerships, you can purchase special products for cleaning and impregnating foam rubber air filters. How suitable they are for paper components, those who have tried it know.

And by the way, pay attention to the prices of special equipment. Maybe it's cheaper to buy a new filter and not fool yourself with dubious events?