Repair, replacement and adjustment of the Passat B3 steering rack: signs of malfunction, causes, consequences
Content
Even the most reliable car in the world needs repairs sooner or later. The Volkswagen Passat B3 is no exception, the steering rack of which, after a certain run on our heavy roads, fails and requires adjustment.
Steering device on Passat B3
As a rule, the presence of problems with the steering is judged by smudges on the rail, as well as by the tight operation of the entire assembly. Obviously, to begin with, the part will have to be removed in order to replace the repair kit and cuffs. A steering rack malfunction is a dangerous signal for the driver, because the situation threatens to lose control and cause an accident. For this reason, every car driver is obliged to study the device diagram and the functions of this part, as well as be aware of the actual replacement time. The rack is responsible for the rotation of the steering and for the movement of the wheels, which makes this unit the most important in the car. If for some reason the mechanism jams, the hubs will remain in one position, and this is already a high risk of an accident.
Determining the location of the rail is easy. From the steering wheel comes a shaft, which is a component of the system. The main part of the node is located in the engine compartment. Passat B3 is equipped with both mechanical and hydraulic steering. Since 1992, the hydraulic booster version has been approved by the management and began to be mass-produced.
The main components of the steering rack
The steering gear of the Volkswagen Passat B3 is made in the form of a rack and pinion with a fixed gear ratio and has the following characteristics.
- The drive consists of rods with external and internal cones. It is also equipped with a belt, which has different sizes in diesel and gasoline versions of the car.
- GUR (hydraulic booster) includes a pump, a distributor and a power cylinder. These three mechanisms are combined into a common node. The high pressure pump is driven by a crankshaft through a V-belt and is equipped with vanes. In idle mode, the motor is capable of delivering pressure from 75 to 82 kg / cm2.
The power steering pump is powered by the crankshaft through a V-belt - The power steering also has a capacity that can hold up to 0,9 liters of Dexron automatic transmission oil.
- The power steering fluid cooler is provided on diesel vehicles. It is made in the form of a tube laid under the front of the machine.
For experienced owners who understand the intricacies of adjustment, digital values \uXNUMXb\uXNUMXbcharacterizing the operation of the steering system will be useful.
- The steering gear ratio is: 22,8 for mechanics and 17,5 for modification with power steering.
- Minimum turning circle: 10,7 m at the outermost point of the body and 10 m at the wheels.
- Wheel angle: 42o for internal and 36o for outdoor.
- The number of wheel revolutions: 4,43 for a mechanical rack and 3,33 for the version with power steering.
- Bolt tightening torque: steering wheel nuts - 4 kgf m, thrust nuts - 3,5 kgf m, steering lock to body subframe - 3,0 kgf m, pump bolts - 2,0 kgf m, belt lock nut - 2,0 kgf m.
The power steering fluid, according to the manufacturer, does not require replacement during the entire life of the car, but it is recommended to check its condition every 30 thousand kilometers.
All steering racks from the Passat B3 until 1992 are equipped with a small spline with 36 teeth, models after 1992 with a large spline and 22 teeth.
What problems usually arise with the rail
Smudges on the subframe are the first thing that an experienced Passat B3 driver focuses on. This means that the assembly is leaking, the power steering fluid is leaving. At the same time, when driving on rough roads, a knock is heard on the right, and the steering wheel becomes heavier after a long drive. On mechanical rails, signs of failure are difficulty in turning the steering wheel, jamming and jerky movement of the machine. If the last symptom is severe and frequent, the rail may be broken altogether.
Experts see the reasons for the appearance of problems with this node ahead of time in bad roads. Unfortunately, our paved roads are inferior in quality to European ones, so a car designed for milder operating conditions often breaks down. However, if the owner moves carefully and does not drive, repairs will be required only after natural wear and tear - the rail of a German car will last a very long time.
To accurately diagnose a steering malfunction, you will need a special stand, which is available to professional service stations. Many experienced motorists are able to determine wear and tear by ear. The following main symptoms of the failure of this node are distinguished.
- Knocking in the center or on the right when the car is moving over bumps, aggravated when cornering and during maneuvers.
- Increased vibrations transmitted to the steering wheel when driving over bumps or gravel.
- An increase in backlash that causes the machine to "yaw" at medium to high speeds. The driver is obliged to constantly control the trajectory of movement, otherwise the car will skid.
- Heavy steering. He hardly returns to his original position, although this should happen automatically.
- Buzz or other extraneous sounds.
It is recommended to pay special attention to rubber protective anthers - accordions.. They can be viewed under the front wheel arches, partly under the hood. However, the best option is to raise the car on a flyover to determine traces of oil and cracks in the elements. Torn anthers indicate that moisture and dirt got inside, accelerating the wear of all mechanisms several times. This is an urgent need for repairs.
Cuffs are installed on some components of the steering rack. They prevent air from entering, do not allow power steering fluid to flow out. If they are damaged, the annular wear of the power cylinder and housing will begin, which will lead to costly repairs. Therefore, it is important to keep the engine compartment of your car clean so that oil stains can be easily noticed. In addition, the level of power steering fluid during leaks decreases a priori, which cannot be overlooked.
In general, the rail elements with power steering should be examined more carefully, because there are several separate nodes here. The pump, drive, work tubes - all this requires careful and periodic inspection.
Steering rack repair or replacement
In most cases, the restoration of the Passat B3 rail is trusted by the masters in the service station. Even banal dismantling is not an easy procedure. On the other hand, most Russian car owners have gotten the hang of making adjustments and fixing minor problems on their own.
- Replace worn duster. This casing is easily changed in the inspection hole. Before installing a new protection, you must not forget to clean all the elements from dirt.
- Eliminate power steering fluid leaks on hoses. The procedure is reduced to emptying the system and replacing the tubes.
- Adjust belt tension. In extreme cases, if the setting does not help, the element can be replaced. Belt slippage impairs the operation of the amplifier, making it difficult to move the steering wheel.
- Check the hydraulic pump pulley, its operation.The hydraulic pump pulley must be checked for mechanical wear and free rotation.
- Inspect and, if necessary, replace the shaft cross.
- Install fresh tie rod ends. The wear of these parts will constantly unnerve the driver, as it leads to play and knocks.
The design of the original rail on the Passat B3 involves adjusting the gaps in the transmission unit. In the first stages of gear wear, play is eliminated by tightening the screws. If you approach this work through the sleeves, you can inadvertently leave no gaps. In this case, the gear train will wear out several times faster.
The most common types of steering rack problems on a Passat B3 are:
- free running of bearings, their development;
- grinding teeth on a rail or shaft;
- passing of cuffs, glands;
- deformation of the shaft or the rail itself, which often happens after the car's wheel gets into a pit or as a result of an impact;
- wear of cylinders and bushings.
Some of the listed faults are eliminated by installing a repair kit. But, for example, it is advisable to replace the entire rack with worn teeth, repairs will not help here.
Ways to restore the steering rack are usually classified according to the degree of complexity and cost of work.
- Preventive or minor repairs, which are carried out in the event of a malfunction of the unit or due to contamination and slight corrosion. In this case, the rail is simply disassembled, cleaned, and the fluid is replaced.
- Comprehensive repair, implying the presence of any faulty parts. The latter must be repaired or replaced. These elements, as a rule, include oil seals, bushings, and various gaskets.
- A complete or major overhaul is actually a replacement. It is carried out in the most extreme case, when it is simply impossible or impractical to restore individual elements of the rail due to various reasons.
Typically, preventive maintenance does not take more than an hour and a half, if the pros got down to business. Dismantling and installation takes longer - about 4-5 hours. If a major replacement of the assembly is being made, then it is recommended to choose models from manufacturers ZR or TRW. As for the boots and tie rods, Lemforder makes them well. The cost of a high-quality new rail varies between 9-11 thousand rubles, while repairs in a service station cost 6 thousand rubles.
Step-by-step repair instructions
In most cases, the success of the repair is associated with the correct selection of the repair kit. Professionals advise taking elements in a kit from Bossca under catalog number 01215. It consists of the following parts.
- The right gland of the rail in the holder.
- Left rail seal without clip.
- Steering shaft seals (upper and lower).
- Tube caps.
- Rubber ring for piston.
- A cap that fixes the steering shaft bearing.
- Shaft nut.
Work with anther
It was said above that the steering rack boot is checked and replaced if necessary in the first place. If this is not done in time, the entire assembly will have to be repaired.
There is no difficulty in replacing the anther. The operation is within the power of any "trade winder" with experience. It will be necessary to prepare for work only a few tools and consumables.
- A set of wrenches for removing steering rods.
- A screwdriver, which will make it easier to unscrew the screws that tighten the clamps.
- New anthers.
- Metal clamps.
- A little salt.
On some Passat B3 models, a plastic puff is used instead of a metal clamp. In this case, you just need to cut it with a sharp knife.
Anther rupture on the Passat B3 most often occurs due to mechanical damage. Since it is made of rubber, it becomes obsolete over time, loses strength and breaks at the slightest impact on it.
- The car must be lifted onto the overpass, then the engine protection (if provided) should be dismantled.
- Install a jack under the front end, remove the wheel.
- Disconnect the elements that prevent free access to the rack anthers.
- Loosen the tie rods.
- Remove clamps.
- Pull out the boot using pliers. You can rotate the cover from side to side to make the task easier.The easiest way to pull out the boot is with pliers
- Carefully inspect the rail, trying to find damage.
- Apply a layer of grease, put a new boot.
Video: replacing steering gear anthers
https://youtube.com/watch?v=sRuaxu7NYkk
Mechanical rack lubrication
"Solidol" is not the only lubricant that is used to service the steering rack. Such compositions as "Litol-24", "Ciatim", "Fiol" have proven themselves well. If the car is operated in the northern regions of the country, then it is recommended to take Severol with additives that retain conservative properties even in very severe frosts.
Lubricant is applied thoroughly to reduce the effort required to turn the steering. Without dismantling the rail, there can be no talk of any full-fledged lubrication. It is necessary to wipe the gear pair with a special composition of AOF.
Dismantling the rail
Do-it-yourself step-by-step actions for dismantling the rail with your own hands look like this.
- Three bolts of the rear right engine support are unscrewed.Three bolts of the rear suspension are unscrewed with a head with a knob
- The upper end of the support strut is dismantled.
- Remove the engine bracket to the rear left support.
- The left wheel is removed.For convenience, you need to remove the left wheel
- Shields are placed under the engine compartment, and wooden blocks are placed under the gearbox and pallet.Under the power units of the car you need to put wooden shields
- The jack is lowered just enough so that the car is slightly hung out, but does not put pressure on the subframe. This is done for ease of detachment of the steering tips.Steering tips are unscrewed with a special key
- The latches securing the rail to the subframe are unscrewed.
- The plastic protection hiding the steering shaft cardan is removed. The bolt connecting both cardans is unscrewed.After removing the plastic protection, the bolt connecting both cardan shafts is turned out.
- All hoses and tubes going to the tank are disconnected.
- The steering rack is removed.After carrying out all the described operations, the steering rack is removed from the car.
Video: VW Passat B3 steering rack repair, removal and installation
Steering wheel adjustment
Steering rack adjustment is carried out when play is detected. According to the factory settings, the amount of free play should not exceed 10 °. If this is not the case, you will have to adjust using a special screw.
- Lifting should be done slowly and smoothly.
- The wheels of the machine must be set exactly at an angle of 90 °.
- It is better to carry out the adjustment together with a partner. One person adjusts the adjusting bolt, the other rotates the steering wheel so that it does not jam.
- Be sure to carry out a road test after each adjustment.
- If the steering wheel is hard to turn, you may need to loosen the adjusting screw.The adjusting bolt in the presence of play is tightened
As a rule, difficulties in the process of adjusting the rail do not arise. However, you may encounter problems with the angle of rotation. So, the more the screw is tightened, the less degree the car's wheels will turn. And this will negatively affect its maneuverability. For this reason, the screw setting should be carried out strictly according to the manufacturer's parameters - you should not try to divert the risk too much from the level planned by the factory.
A properly adjusted steering wheel should automatically return to its original position after a turn.
Video: how to properly tighten the steering rack without ruining it
Repair of the steering rack of a Passat B3 car is best left to specialists, while you can do the adjustment yourself.
