We independently replace the rear brake pads on the VAZ 2107

The driver of the VAZ 2107 should be able to stop his car at any time. If there are any problems with this, it is simply impossible to operate such a car, since driving it endangers not only the life of the driver, but also his passengers. Most problems with the brakes on the "sevens" are due to wear on the brake pads. Fortunately, the driver can independently detect the malfunction and fix it. Let's figure out how to do it.

Purpose and types of brake pads

Friction is used to stop the car. In the case of the VAZ 2107, this is the friction force of the pads on the brake disc (or on the brake drum, if the pads are rear). In the general case, the block is a steel plate with mounting holes, to which an overlay is attached with the help of rivets. This is a rectangular plate made of a special material with a very high coefficient of friction. If the coefficient of friction of the lining decreases for some reason, braking becomes less effective. And this immediately affects the quality and safety of driving.

What are the pads

The designers of the VAZ 2107 provided two different braking schemes for the front and rear wheels of the "seven".

Front pads

To brake the front wheels, flat paired rectangular pads are used. The front wheels of the "seven" are equipped with massive steel discs that rotate synchronously with the wheels. When braking, rectangular pads compress the rotating disc on both sides. After that, the friction force, which is provided by the pads, comes into play, and the disks, along with the wheels, stop.

The front pads of the "seven" are ordinary rectangular plates with overlays

The pad plates are installed in a special device called a caliper. This is a massive steel case with several holes, which houses the above brake disc with a pair of pads. The movement of the pads is provided by special pistons in the brake cylinders. Liquid is supplied to the cylinders under high pressure and the pistons are pushed out of them. The rod of each piston is attached to the pad, so the pads also move and squeeze the brake disc, stopping it along with the wheel.

Rear pads

The rear pads on the "seven" have a fundamentally different design. If the front pads press on the disc from the outside, then the rear pads press from the inside, and not on the disc, but on the massive brake drum. For this reason, the rear pads are not flat, but c-shaped.

The rear brake pads of the “seven” are much longer than the front ones and have a C-shape

Each last also has its own rectangular pad made of special material, but the rear pads are much narrower and longer. These pads are also driven by cylinders, but they are double-ended cylinders, meaning the rods from such a cylinder can extend from both sides so that it can move two brake pads at the same time. The pads are returned to their original position not with the help of rods (because they are not attached to the rods of a double-sided cylinder), but with the help of a powerful return spring stretched between the pads. Here we should also mention the inner surface of the brake drums. Very serious requirements are imposed on the quality of this surface. It's simple: pads can be the best, but if the inner surface of the drum is worn, if it is covered with cracks, scratches and chips, then braking will be far from ideal.

About the choice of pads

Today, on the shelves of stores there are a lot of pads from a wide variety of manufacturers, both well-known and not very well-known. In addition, there are a lot of fakes that copy products of famous brands. Recognizing these fakes is often very difficult, so the only criterion for a novice driver here will be the price. It should be understood: a set of four high-quality pads cannot cost 200 rubles. So which pads to choose with the abundance on the market? Today, the owner of the "seven" has three options:

• purchase and install original VAZ pads. These pads have two advantages: they can be found everywhere, plus an affordable price. At the moment, the cost of a set of four rear pads does not exceed 700 rubles;
  

  VAZ pads are distinguished by the most affordable price
• blocks of the German company ATE. This is the second most popular pad manufacturer on the domestic market. ATE pads last longer than standard VAZ pads, but finding them every year is more and more difficult. In addition, they cost more: the price of a set of ATE rear pads starts at 1700 rubles;
  

  Blocks from ATE are of the highest quality and at the same high price.
• pads PILENGA. This manufacturer occupies an intermediate position between the two above. A set of PILENGA rear pads will cost the motorist 950 rubles. Today, finding them is also not easy (although just two years ago, store shelves were littered with them). But in terms of durability, they are still inferior to ATE pads.
  

  PILENGA pads are reliability for moderate money

Here, in essence, are all the major pad manufacturers represented on the domestic spare parts market. Of course, there are many other, not so well-known small brands. But there is not much point in presenting them here, since buying products from a little-known company is almost always a lottery for a car enthusiast. In addition, there is a high probability of buying a fake, as mentioned above.

The conclusion from all of the above is simple: the main factor in choosing pads is the driver's budget. If you want to install pads and not think about them for several years, you will have to fork out for ATE products. If there is less money, but there is time to go shopping, then you can look for PILENGA pads. And if money is scarce and there is no time, then you will have to install VAZ pads. As they say, cheap and cheerful.

Pads wear signs

We list the most common signs that it is time to urgently change the pads:

• a strong rattle or creak that occurs at the time of braking. Moreover, this sound may increase with increasing pressure on the brake pedal. The reason is simple: the pads on the pads are worn out, and you have to slow down not with pads, but with bare steel plates. It is this braking that causes a loud rattle. Often only a small area of ​​the lining wears out, but even this is enough for the braking efficiency to drop several times. And uneven wear of the linings can occur due to the fact that the pads are installed with a slight skew;
• knocking sound that occurs when driving when the brakes are not used. As mentioned above, each block has special overlays. These pads are attached to the pads with rivets. Over time, the rivets wear out and fly out. As a result, the lining begins to hang out and knock. If you do not take action, it breaks. Very often, when removing an old pad, the following picture is observed: a piece of lining hangs from the pad, dangling freely on one surviving rivet.

The procedure for replacing the rear pads on the VAZ 2107

Before starting work, there are a few important points to note. Firstly, the handbrake of the "seven" must be lowered. Secondly, if the driver decides to change the rear pads, then they should be changed on two wheels. Even if the pads are worn out on only one wheel, the whole set changes. If this is not done, the wear will again be uneven and such pads will last for a very short time. Now about the tools. Here's what we need:

• new set of rear pads;
• jack;
• two mounts of medium size;
• pliers;
• set of socket heads;
• set of open-end wrenches;
• screwdriver.

Sequence of operations

To get to the rear pads, you have to remove the brake drums.

1. The selected wheel is jacked up and removed. Under it is a brake drum, on which there are two guide studs with nuts.
   

   To unscrew the nuts on the studs, it is better to use a spanner wrench
2. The nuts are unscrewed with a key of 17. After that, the drum should be pulled towards you along the guide pins. This should be done with extreme caution, since careless removal can easily damage the threads on the studs.
   

   Remove the drum very carefully so as not to damage the threads on the studs.
3. It often happens that the drum sits so firmly on the guides that it is not possible to move it manually. In this case, take two 8mm bolts and screw them into opposite holes on the brake drum. You need to screw in the bolts evenly: two turns on one, then two turns on the other, and so on until they are completely screwed into the drum. This operation will move the “sticky” drum from the guides, after which it can be removed by hand. Under no circumstances should you try to move the drum with a hammer. This is guaranteed to damage the threads on the studs.
4. After removing the drum, access to the rear pads will be open. They are thoroughly cleaned of dirt with a rag and inspected. Sometimes the pads are intact, and braking worsens due to the fact that the surface of the pads is heavily oiled. If the situation is exactly this, and the thickness of the overlays is more than 2 mm, then they do not need to be changed. Instead, carefully clean the pads with a wire brush. This will increase their coefficient of friction, and braking will become effective again.
5. If, after the inspection, it was decided to replace the pads, then first they will have to be brought together, since without this they cannot be removed. A pair of mounting blades is installed so that they rest against the edge of the rear brake drum shield. Then, using the mounts as levers, you should carefully bring the pads together. This may require considerable effort.
   

   To reduce the brake pads will require a pair of mounts and a lot of physical strength
6. At the top, the pads are connected by a return spring. This spring is removed. It's best to pry it off with a screwdriver. Alternatively, pliers can be used.
   

   To remove the upper return spring, you can use a regular screwdriver or pliers
7. There is a small bolt in the middle of each pad that needs to be removed as well. However, you don't have to unscrew it. To remove this long bolt, it is enough to turn ninety degrees clockwise.
   

   To remove the central bolts from the pads, it is enough to turn these bolts 90 degrees
8. Now one of the pads is carefully removed. When removing it, remember that at the bottom there is another return spring connecting the pads. This spring must be removed.
9. After removing the first shoe, manually remove the spacer bar located on the top of the brake flap.
10. Then, after unscrewing the second long bolt, the second block is removed.
    

    When removing the first pad, it is important not to forget to disconnect the lower return spring
11. Removed pads are replaced with new ones. After that, the shoe system is reassembled, the brake drum and rear wheel are installed in place.
12. After installing new pads and removing the car from the jack, be sure to apply the handbrake several times to make sure that it works as it should.

Video: changing the rear pads on the "classic"

Replacing the rear pads on the VAZ 2101-2107 (CLASSICS) (Lada).

important points

There are a couple of important things to keep in mind when changing pads:

• putting one of the long bolts on the brake drum shield back in place can cause serious problems. The fact is that there is not enough space behind the shield, and far from everyone will be able to stick their fingers in there.. Experienced owners of the "sevens" know this and act simply: they tie a bolt to a thread. The second end of the thread is tied to a piece of wire. This wire is inserted into the bolt hole, picked up by pliers on the other side of the shield and pulled out along with the thread and the long bolt;
  

  One of the bolts on the brake shield is extremely difficult to install because there is not enough space behind the shield
• after installing a long bolt, be sure to check the mounting bolts of the shield itself. There are four of these bolts. And the nuts on these bolts are almost always loose. The nuts should be tightened, and the tightening torque should be at least 50 kgf / m;
  

  There are four bolts on the brake shield, which must be tightened.
• special mention should be made of the brake drum. If, when examining the inner wall of the drum, at least one defect in the form of a scratch or dent was found on it, it must be eliminated. Under no circumstances should new shoes be installed in a damaged drum. The only way to eliminate such defects is the so-called boring. The drum is fixed in a lathe and its inner surface is ground to the depth of the defect. Usually it is no more than 2 mm. If the pothole on the drum is much deeper, then no, even the most qualified turner will not help here, and the drum will have to be changed.

Replacement of brake pads

In some situations, the driver may decide not to completely change the brake pads, but only change the pads on them (most often this happens when the car owner wants to save money and not buy an expensive branded set of pads). In this case, he will have to install the overlays himself. Here's what you need for this:

• drill;
• locksmith vice;
• thin beard;
• pencil;
• set of new brake pads;
• a set of new rivets for brake pads;
• chisel and hammer.

Sequence of operations

First you need to remove the brake pads, using the above recommendations.

1. The lining is attached to the block with rivets. With the help of a hammer and a chisel, these rivets are cut down. In this case, it is better to clamp the block in a vise.
   

   Worn brake pads with remnants of rivets, cut with a chisel
2. After cutting off the lining, parts of the rivets remain in the holes on the block. These parts are carefully knocked out with a thin beard.
3. A new lining is installed on the block. Using the block as a template, the location of the holes is applied to the overlay with a pencil (the pencil is pushed from the back of the block into the old holes freed from rivets).
   

   New brake pads do not have holes, so they will need to be marked using the brake pad as a template.
4. Now holes are drilled on the marked overlay with a drill. In this case, it is important to choose the right drill. Example: if the rivet diameter is 4 mm, then the drill diameter should be 4.3 - 4.5 mm. If the rivet is 6 mm, then the drill should be 6.3 - 6.5 mm, respectively.
5. The pad is fixed on the block, the rivets are installed in the drilled holes and flared with a hammer. An important point: the diameter of two pads with new linings should be two to three millimeters larger than the diameter of the brake drum. This is a necessary condition for the normal operation of the brakes: the pads must fit very tightly against the inner wall of the drum in order to provide the most effective braking.
   

   The pads are attached to the pads with rivets, which are flared with a hammer.

Video: installing new brake pads

So, installing new brake pads on a VAZ 2107 is not an extremely difficult task and does not require any special skills and knowledge. So even a novice car owner will cope with this task. All that needs to be done to successfully complete the work is to follow the above instructions exactly.