How to check and repair the VAZ 2105 starter yourself

The successful start of an automobile engine depends on many factors, but the main one is the performance of the starter. It is he who, by rotating the crankshaft, makes all systems and mechanisms work while the power plant is still “sleeping”.

Starter VAZ 2105

A starter is an electromechanical device used to start a car engine by turning its crankshaft. Structurally, it is a conventional electric motor powered by a battery. From the factory, the "five" were equipped with a starting device of the type 5722.3708. Other representatives of the "classic" VAZs were equipped with the same starters.

The starter is an electromechanical device designed to start the engine.

Table: main characteristics of the starting device 5722.3708

Operating voltage, V	12
Developed power, kW	1,55 – 1,6 Feet
Starting current, A	700
No-load current, A	80
Rotor rotation	from left to right
Recommended operating time in start-up mode, no more than, s	10
Weight, kg	3,9

Starter design

As we have already said, the starting device of the car is an electric motor. However, the design of a starter differs from a conventional electric motor in that it has a mechanism by which its shaft enters into short-term engagement with the flywheel.

The starter consists of the following nodes:

• a stator that acts as a housing;
• two covers covering the stator from both sides;
• anchor (rotor) with overrunning clutch and flywheel drive gear;
• retractor relay.

The stator of the device consists of four electromagnetic windings. The body and two covers are combined into one unit by means of two studs that tighten them. The rotor is located in the housing and mounted on two ceramic-metal bushings that play the role of bearings. One of them is installed in the front cover, and the other, respectively, in the back. The design of the rotor includes a shaft with a gear, an electromagnetic winding and a brush collector.

The starter is made up of four main components: stator, rotor, front and rear covers, solenoid relay

In the front cover there is a mechanism for engaging the armature with the flywheel. It consists of a movable gear, freewheel and drive arm. The function of this mechanism is to transfer torque from the rotor to the flywheel during starter operation, and after starting the engine, disconnect these components.

A pull-type relay is also installed in the front cover. Its design consists of a housing, an electromagnetic winding, contact bolts and a movable core with a return spring.

Principle of operation

The device starts at the moment when the ignition key becomes in the second position. The current from the battery is supplied to one of the outputs of the traction type relay. A magnetic field is formed in its winding. It retracts the core, due to which the drive lever moves the gear, thus introducing it into engagement with the flywheel. At the same time, voltage is applied to the armature and stator windings. The magnetic fields of the windings interact and provoke the rotation of the rotor, which, in turn, spins the flywheel.

After starting the power unit, the number of revolutions of the overrunning clutch increases. When it starts to rotate faster than the shaft itself, it is triggered, as a result of which the gear disengages from the flywheel crown.

Video: how the starter works

What starters can be installed on the VAZ 2105

In addition to the standard launcher, you can put one of the analogues on the "five" that are on sale today quite a lot.

Starter Manufacturers

Among all domestic and imported parts presented on websites, in car dealerships and on the market, one can single out those that most fully meet the characteristics of the VAZ 2105 engine:

• KZATE (Russia, Samara) - is distinguished by reliability, but has a relatively small power (1,35 kW);
• Oberkraft (Germany) - in terms of power it is comparable to the regular one, but significantly exceeds the service life (according to the manufacturer, the device is able to work for more than six years without repair);
• Eldix (Bulgaria) - a reliable analogue with a capacity of 1,4 kW;
• BATE (Belarus) - a good alternative with a capacity of 1,4 kW;
• ATEK (Belarus) is the most popular and powerful analogue (1,55 kW).

Is it possible to put a starter from a foreign car or another VAZ model on the "five"

As for the installation on the VAZ 2105 of a starting device from an imported car, it is unlikely that it will be possible to do this without appropriate modifications. And is it worth it? It is much easier to install a starter from the Niva. This is the only VAZ model, the starter from which fits any "classic" without any alterations.

The starter from the Niva will easily go to the "five"

Reduction starter

For those drivers who want their car's engine to start at half a turn in any weather and regardless of the battery charge, there is a great solution. This is a gear starter. It differs from the usual one by the presence in the design of the gearbox - a mechanism that allows you to significantly increase the number of revolutions of the rotor and, accordingly, the torque of the crankshaft.

If, to start the VAZ 2105 carburetor engine, the crankshaft must be spun up to 40–60 rpm, then the gear starter can ensure its rotation at a frequency of up to 150 rpm even with a “dead” battery. With such a device, the engine starts without problems even in the most severe frosts.

Among the geared starting devices for the "classic" Belarusian ATEK starters (catalog number 2101-000/5722.3708) have proven themselves well. Even when the battery is discharged to 6 V, such a device can start the power plant without any problems. Such a starter costs 500 rubles more than usual.

Gear starter allows you to start the engine even with a strong battery discharge

Common starter malfunctions 5722.3708 and their symptoms

No matter how reliable and durable the starter of the “five” is, sooner or later it will fail. Most often, its breakdowns occur due to problems in the electrical part, but mechanical problems are not excluded.

Signs of a failing starter

Symptoms of a failed starter may include:

• the absence of any reaction to turning the key to position "II" (the device does not turn or click);
• clicks (single or multiple) when starting the starter without turning on its electric motor;
• crackling during operation;
• slow scrolling of the shaft of the device, accompanied by an intermittent "howl";
• hum uncharacteristic for starter operation.

Breakdown

Let's consider each of the above signs in the context of possible malfunctions.

Starter does not start at all

Lack of response to attempts to start the engine may indicate such breakdowns:

• strong battery discharge;
• broken contact between the pole terminals of the battery and the clamps of the power wires or in the connection of the positive wire and the output on the solenoid relay;
• break in the control circuit of the device;
• breakdown of the ignition switch contact group.

To more accurately establish why the starter refuses to start, a regular car tester will help us. Diagnostics of the circuit and electrical connections of the device is performed in the following order:

1. We turn on the tester in voltmeter mode and measure the voltage supplied by the battery by connecting the probes of the device to its terminals. If the device shows below 11 V, the problem is most likely in the level of its charge.
   

   If the battery is low, the starter may not be able to do its job.
2. If everything is in order with the voltage, we check the reliability and condition of the electrical connections. First of all, we unscrew the clamps of the tips of the power wires that are attached to the battery terminals. We clean them with fine sandpaper, treat them with WD-40 liquid and connect them back. We do the same procedure with the other end of the power wire, which comes from the positive battery terminal to the starter. Check to see if the starter is running. If not, we continue the diagnosis.
   

   When the battery terminals are oxidized, current leakage occurs, as a result of which the starter does not receive the necessary voltage
3. To determine if the ignition switch is working and if the control circuit is intact, it is necessary to apply current to the starter directly from the battery. To do this, turn off the gear, be sure to put the car on the "handbrake", turn on the ignition and, using a large screwdriver (key, knife), close the conclusions on the solenoid relay. If the starter is turned on, it is necessary to check the integrity of the wire connecting the device and the ignition switch contact group. If it is intact, we change the ignition switch contact group.
   

   The arrows indicate the conclusions that need to be closed during the test.

Clicks

The start of the starter is always accompanied by a single click. He tells us that the traction relay has worked and the contact bolts have closed. Following the click, the rotor of the device should begin to rotate. If there is a click, but the starter does not work, then the incoming voltage is not enough to start it. Such symptoms appear when the battery is strongly discharged, as well as when the current is lost due to unreliable connections in the battery power circuit. To troubleshoot, as in the previous case, a car tester is used, which is turned on in voltmeter mode.

In some cases, a starter failure is accompanied by frequent clicks. They are typical for a malfunction of the traction relay itself, namely for an open or short circuit in its winding.

Crack

Cracking in the starter can occur for two reasons: due to breakage of the overrunning clutch and wear of the drive gear. In any of these cases, it is better not to continue the movement, in order to avoid destruction of the flywheel crown.

Slow shaft rotation

It also happens that the starter starts, turns, but very slowly. Its revolutions are not enough to start the power plant. Often, such a malfunction is accompanied by a characteristic "howl". Similar symptoms may indicate:

• battery discharge;
• violation of contacts in the starter circuit;
• burning (wear) of the collector or brushes;
• short circuit or open circuit in the electromagnetic windings of the device.

Hoot

Usually the hum is the result of wear of the support bushings. With their significant development, the shaft of the device warps, as a result of which a small vibration appears. In the most advanced cases, the shaft can "short" to the housing, causing a loss of current.

Checking and repairing the starter VAZ 2105

You can repair the starting device yourself. This process includes the dismantling of the assembly, its disassembly, troubleshooting and replacement of defective parts.

Removing the starter from the VAZ 2105 engine

To remove the starter from the car, we need:

• crosshead screwdriver;
• keys to "10" and "13";
• a head with the extended holder on "10".

Dismantling works are carried out in the following order:

1. Using a screwdriver, loosen the screw of the clamp that secures the air intake pipe. Disconnect the pipe.
   

   The pipe is attached with a clamp
2. We unscrew the nuts fixing the air intake with the key to "13". We remove the node, remove it to the side.
   

   The air intake is attached with two nuts
3. We unscrew the two nuts that fix the thermal insulation shield with the key to “10”.
   

   The shield is also held on by two nuts at the top and one at the bottom.
4. From the side of the bottom of the car with a head on “10” with an elongated holder, we unscrew the lower nut for fixing the shield.
   

   When the lower nut is unscrewed, the shield can be easily removed.
5. We remove the thermal insulation shield, remove it to the side.
6. From the bottom of the car, we unscrew one bolt fixing the starter, using the key to "13".
   

   The bolt is unscrewed with a key to "13"
7. Using the same tool, unscrew the two bolts securing the device under the hood.
   

   The upper bolts are also unscrewed with a key to "13"
8. We move the starter a little forward so that we get free access to the terminals of the solenoid relay. Disconnect the control wire.
   

   The arrow indicates the control wire connector
9. Using the key on "13", unscrew the nut that secures the end of the power wire to the relay. Disconnect this wire.
   

   The tip of the power wire is attached to the terminal with a nut
10. Raise the starter and remove it.

Dismantling, troubleshooting and repair

At this stage of repair work, we will need the following tools and tools:

• keys to "8", "10" and "13";
• mandrels for pressing bushings;
• Phillips and slotted screwdrivers;
• a hammer;
• auto tester;
• pliers;
• ruler or vernier caliper;
• dry clean cloth.

We perform work in accordance with the following algorithm:

1. Using a rag, remove dirt, dust and moisture from the starter.
2. We unscrew the nut that secures the wire to the lower contact of the relay with the key to "13".
3. We remove the clamping washers, turn off the wire.
   

   To disconnect the wire, you need to unscrew the nut
4. Unscrew the screws securing the relay to the starter with a flat screwdriver.
   

   The relay is fixed with three screws
5. We dismantle the relay. Disconnect the anchor and drive lever.
   

   Before dismantling the relay, it is necessary to disengage the core from the drive lever
6. We take out the spring.
   

   The spring is inside the core
7. Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the screws securing the casing. We disconnect it.
   

   Cover fixed with screws
8. Remove the ring holding the rotor shaft using a screwdriver.
   

   The ring is removed with a screwdriver
9. Using the key to "10", unscrew the screed bolts.
   

   To disconnect the body elements, unscrew the two bolts with a “10” wrench.
10. Remove the front cover.
    

    The front cover is removed along with the anchor
11. Unscrew the screws fixing the windings to the stator housing with a flat screwdriver.
    

    The windings are attached to the body with screws.
12. We take out the insulation tubes of the coupling bolts.
    

    The tube acts as an insulator for the tie bolt
13. Take off the back cover. Remove the jumper from the brush holder.
    

    Jumper can be easily removed by hand
14. We dismantle the brushes with springs.
    

    The brushes are easily removed by prying them with a screwdriver.
15. We examine the support sleeve of the rear cover. If it has signs of wear or deformation, knock it out using a mandrel and install a new one.
    

    It is possible to remove and install the sleeve in the cover only with a special mandrel
16. We remove the cotter pin for fixing the drive lever with the help of pliers.
    

    The pin is removed with pliers
17. We remove the axle.
    

    The axis can be pushed out with a thin screwdriver or an awl
18. We remove the plug and disconnect the lever stops.
    

    You can use a flathead screwdriver to loosen the stops.
19. We dismantle the rotor assembly with the overrunning clutch.
20. Take the lever out of the cover.
    

    Without an axle, the lever is easily removed from the cover
21. We shift the washer to the side and open the retaining ring on the shaft.
    

    The ring fixes the position of the clutch
22. We remove the ring, dismantle the clutch.
    

    After removing the retaining ring, you can remove the clutch
23. Visually assess the condition of the front cover support sleeve. In case of detection of traces of its wear or deformation, we will replace it.
    

    If the bushing shows signs of wear, we will replace it.
24. We check the condition of the brushes by measuring their height with a caliper or ruler. If the height is less than 12 mm, we replace the brushes.
    

    If the brush height is less than 12mm, it must be replaced
25. We inspect all the stator windings and check them for a short or open. To do this, turn on the autotester in ohmmeter mode and measure the resistance value of each of them. Between the positive terminal of each of the coils and the housing, the resistance should be approximately 10-12 kOhm. If it does not correspond to this indicator, we replace the entire stator.
    

    The resistance of each of the windings should be in the range of 10-12 kOhm
26. Visually check the integrity of the anchor collector by wiping it with a dry, clean cloth. Every single lamella must be intact and not burnt. In case of damage to the device, we replace the entire anchor.
27. We check the armature winding for a short circuit or open circuit. To do this, we measure the resistance between one of the collector lamellas and the rotor core. It should also be 10-12 kOhm.
    

    The armature winding must have a resistance in the range of 10-12 kOhm
28. After checking and replacing the defective elements, we assemble the starting device and install it on the car in the reverse order.

Video: starter repair

Repair of the traction relay

Of the entire starter design, it is the traction relay that fails most often. The most common faults include:

• open or unreliable contact in the circuit;
• burning or oxidation of contact bolts;
• breakage (short circuit) in the winding.

A sign that characterizes a relay malfunction is the absence of the same click that occurs when voltage is applied to its winding and the armature is pulled in.

If such a symptom is detected, the first thing to do is to check the wiring and the reliability of the contact in the electrical circuit. If this does not help, the relay must be dismantled. By the way, for this you do not need to remove the entire starter. It is enough to remove the air intake and the heat-insulating shield. We talked about how this is done earlier. Next, we perform the following work:

1. We disconnect the power wires from the relay, having previously unscrewed the nuts that fasten their tips to the contact terminals with a key to "13".
   

   Before removing the relay, disconnect all wires from it.
2. Disconnect the control wire.
3. We unscrew the three screws securing the device to the starter with a flat screwdriver.
   

   A slotted screwdriver is used to unscrew the screws.
4. We remove the relay and carefully inspect it. If it has mechanical damage, we will replace it.
5. If the device looks to be working, we check it by connecting it directly to the battery terminals, observing the polarity. This will require two pieces of insulated wire. During connection, a working relay should work. You will see how its core is retracted, and you will hear a click, indicating that the contact bolts are closed. If the relay does not respond to the voltage supply, change it to a new one.

Video: checking the traction relay by directly connecting to the battery

MOV03871.MPG

Do-it-yourself repair of a VAZ 2105 starter is not particularly difficult even for a beginner. The main thing is to have at hand the necessary tools and the desire to figure it all out yourself. As for spare parts, any of them can be purchased at a car dealership or on the market. In extreme cases, you can replace the entire starter.