Starter VAZ 2107: device, fault diagnosis, repair and replacement

The starter of any car, including the VAZ 2107, is designed to start the engine. It is usually a four-brush, four-pole DC motor. Like any other unit, the starter needs periodic maintenance, repair and replacement.

Starter VAZ 2107

To start the VAZ 2107 engine, it is enough to crank the crankshaft several times. The design of a modern car allows this to be done effortlessly by means of a starter, which in turn is activated by an ignition key.

Starter assignment

The starter motor is a DC motor and provides the vehicle's powertrain with the energy it needs to start. It receives power from the battery. The starter motor power for most passenger cars is 3 kW.

Types of starters

There are two main types of starters: reduction and simple (classic). The first option is the most common. The reduction starter is more efficient and small in size and requires less energy to start.

Reduction starter

The manufacturer installs a reduction starter on the VAZ 2107. It differs from the classical version by the presence of a gearbox, and permanent magnets in the motor winding significantly increase the reliability and efficiency of the device. Such a starter costs about 10% more than a classic one, but at the same time has a longer service life.

The reduction starter differs from the classic one by the presence of a reduction gear

The weak point of such a starter is the gearbox itself. If it is made of poor quality, then the starting device will fail earlier than usual. Much attention should be paid to the material from which the gearboxes are made.

Choosing a starter for VAZ 2107

The starter is essential for the car. Therefore, his choice should be taken as responsibly as possible. On the VAZ 2107, you can install starters from other cars, including foreign cars, with suitable fasteners and technical characteristics. The best option are models with a powerful gearbox - starters from Chevrolet Niva or an injector seven.

When choosing a starter, consider the following points.

1. Domestic-made ST-221 starters with a power of 1,3 W, which were installed on the first classic VAZ models, had a cylindrical manifold. The drive gears were driven by electromagnets. The device of such a starter includes a roller overrunning clutch, remote control and a solenoid relay with one winding.
2. Starter 35.3708 differs from ST-221 only in the rear part and winding device, which consists of one shunt and three service coils (ST-221 has two coils of each type).

These starters are more suitable for carburetor VAZ 2107. On sevens with an injection engine, it is proposed to install one of the following options:

1. KZATE (Russia) with a rated power of 1.34 kW. Suitable for carburetor and injection VAZ 2107.
2. Dynamo (Bulgaria). The starter design has been optimized in accordance with customer requirements.
3. LTD Electrical (China) with a power of 1.35 kW and a shorter service life.
4. BATE or 425.3708 (Belarus).
5. FENOX (Belarus). The design assumes the use of permanent magnets. It starts up well in cold weather.
6. Eldix (Bulgaria) 1.4 kW.
7. Oberkraft (Germany). With small dimensions, it creates a large torque.

All manufacturers of starters can be roughly divided into original and secondary ones:

1. Original: Bosch, Cav, Denso, Ford, Magneton, Prestolite.
2. Secondary: Protech, WPS, Cargo, UNIPOINT.

There are many low-quality and cheap Chinese devices among starters from aftermarket manufacturers.

The average cost of a good starter for a VAZ 2107 varies between 3-5 thousand rubles. The price depends not only on the manufacturer, but also on the configuration, delivery conditions of the goods, the marketing policy of firms, etc.

Video: KZATE starter features

starter KZATE VAZ 2107 vs Belarus

Diagnostics of malfunctions of the VAZ 2107 starter

The VAZ 2107 starter may fail for various reasons.

Starter hums but engine won't start

The reasons for the situation when the starter is buzzing, but the engine does not start, may be the following points.

1. The teeth of the starter gear eventually cease to engage (or poorly engage) with the flywheel. This usually happens when the wrong lubricant is used for the engine. If thick oil is poured into the engine in winter, the starter will hardly turn the crankshaft.
2. The gear that meshes with the flywheel may be warped. As a result, the teeth engage with the flywheel crown with only one edge. This is usually due to the failure of the Bendix damper system. Outwardly, this manifests itself in the form of a characteristic hum or rattle and results in broken flywheel or drive teeth.
3. There have been violations in the power supply system to the starter (brushes worn out, terminals oxidized, etc.). Insufficient voltage does not allow the starting device to accelerate the flywheel to the desired speed. At the same time, the starter rotates unstably, a hum and buzz appears.
4. The pushing fork that brings the starter teeth to the flywheel ring and removes them after starting the engine has failed. If this yoke is deformed, the relay may operate but the pinion gear will not engage. As a result, the starter hums, but the engine does not start.

Starter clicks but won't turn over

Sometimes the VAZ 2107 starter clicks, but does not spin. This may happen for the following reasons.

1. There were problems with the power supply (the battery was discharged, the battery terminals were loose or the ground was disconnected). It is necessary to recharge the battery, tighten the terminals, carry out a backlash, etc.
2. Loose fastening of the retractor relay to the starter housing. This usually happens when driving on bad roads or as a result of over-tightening the mounting bolts, which simply break in the process of driving.
3. A short circuit occurred in the traction relay, and the contacts burned out.
4. The positive cable to the starter burned out. It is also possible to loosen the fasteners of this cable. In the latter case, it is enough to tighten the fastening nut.
5. As a result of wear of the bushings, the starter armature has jammed. In such a situation, it is necessary to replace the bushings (removal and disassembly of the starter will be required). A short circuit or open circuit in the armature windings can also lead to a similar result.
6. Bendix deformed. Most often, its teeth are damaged.
   

   Bendix starter VAZ 2107 fails quite often

Video: starter VAZ 2107 clicks, but does not turn

click starter

Cracking when starting starter

Sometimes when you turn the ignition key from the starter side, a crackling and rattle is heard. This may occur as a result of the following malfunctions.

1. Loose nuts securing the starter to the body. Starter rotation causes strong vibration.
2. The starter gears are worn out. When starting, the overrunning clutch (bendix) starts to make a crack.
3. Due to lack or lack of lubrication, the bendix began to move along the shaft with difficulty. Lubricate the assembly with any engine oil.
4. Flywheel teeth damaged as a result of wear no longer engage with the starter gear.
5. Timing pulley loosened. In this case, the crack is heard when the engine is started and disappears after warming up.

Starter does not start

If the starter does not respond at all to turning the ignition key, the following situations are possible:

1. Starter faulty.
2. The starter relay has failed.
3. Faulty starter power supply circuit.
4. Starter fuse blown.
5. The ignition switch is defective.

It happened once to start the engine in winter, when the starter flatly refused to rotate through the ignition switch. I stopped the car on the lake where I went to fish. When going back, the launcher was inactive. Nobody around. I did this: I found the control relay, threw off the wire connecting the system to the ignition switch. Next, I took a long 40 cm screwdriver (I found one in my bag) and closed two starter bolts and one retractor. The starter worked - it turned out that sometimes this happens to these devices from cold and dirt. It is necessary to apply current directly in order for the electric motor to work.

Checking the starter VAZ 2107

If the engine on the VAZ 2107 does not start, the starter is usually checked first. This is done in the following way.

1. The starter is removed from the body and cleaned of dirt.
2. The output of the traction relay is connected by a separate wire to the plus of the battery, and the starter housing is connected to the minus. If the work starter has not started to rotate, the test continues.
3. The back cover of the device is removed. Brushes are checked. Embers should not be more than a third worn away.
4. The multimeter measures the resistance of the stator and armature windings. The device should show 10 kOhm, otherwise there is a short circuit in the circuit. If the multimeter readings tend to infinity, there is an open in the coil.
5. Contact plates are checked with a multimeter. One probe of the device is connected to the body, the other - to the contact plates. The multimeter should show a resistance of more than 10 kOhm.

In the process, the starter is checked for mechanical damage. All defective and damaged elements are replaced with new ones.

Repair of the starter VAZ 2107

Starter VAZ 2107 consists of:

• housing;
• anchors;
• drive;
• relay.

To repair the device you will need:

• bushing puller;
• drill with a drill for metal;
• pliers;
• flat blade screwdriver;
• set of wrenches and pipe wrenches;
  

  When repairing a starter VAZ 2107, you will need a universal puller for bushings
• repairs and derailments;
• clean rag.

Removing the starter

On a viewing hole or overpass, removing the VAZ 2107 starter is quite simple. Otherwise, the car is raised with a jack, and stops are placed under the body. All work is done lying under the machine. Required to remove the starter.

1. Disconnect the battery by removing the wires from the terminals.
2. Remove the rear mudguard (if equipped).
3. Unscrew the fixing bolt located at the bottom of the starter shield.
   

   When dismantling the starter, you must first unscrew the bolt securing the lower part of the shield
4. Unscrew the bolts connecting the starting device to the clutch housing.
5. Disconnect all wires going to the starter.
6. Pull out the starter.
   

   After unscrewing the mounting bolts, the starter can be pulled out from below or from above.

Video: dismantling the starter VAZ 2107 without a viewing hole

Starter replacement VAZ-classic 2101-2107

Starter disassembly

When disassembling the starter VAZ 2107, the following steps should be performed.

1. Unscrew the large nut of the traction relay.
   

   When disassembling the starter, the large nut of the traction relay is first unscrewed
2. Remove the starter winding lead and washer from the stud.
3. Loosen the screws securing the relay to the starter cover.
   

   The relay is attached to the starter housing with screws.
4. Pull out the relay, carefully holding the anchor.
5. Pull out the spring.
   

   When disassembling the starter, pull out the spring very carefully.
6. Remove the anchor from the cover by gently pulling it straight up.
   

   When disassembling the starter, pull up and carefully pull out the upper large anchor
7. Loosen the starter rear cover screws.
8. Remove the starter cover and move it aside.
9. Remove the shaft retaining ring and washer (indicated by the arrow in the figure).
   

   In the process of disassembling the starter, the shaft retaining ring and washer are removed.
10. Loosen the tightening bolts.
11. Detach the cover together with the rotor.
    

    After unscrewing the tightening bolts, the rotor is disconnected from the starter
12. Unscrew the small screws securing the stator winding.
    

    The stator windings are fixed with small screws, which must be unscrewed during disassembly
13. Remove the insulating tube from the inside of the stator.
    

    When disassembling the starter, an insulating tube is pulled out of the housing
14. Disconnect the stator and cover.
    

    The cover is removed from the stator by hand
15. Turn the brush holder over and remove the jumper.
    

    The jumper is removed after turning the brush holder
16. Continue disassembling the starter by removing all springs and brushes.
17. Press out the rear bearing using a suitable size drift.
    

    The rear bearing is pressed out using an appropriately sized mandrel.
18. Use pliers to remove the cotter pin of the drive lever axle.
    

    The pin of the axis of the drive lever is removed with the help of pliers
19. Remove the drive shaft.
    

    When disassembling the starter, the axis of the drive lever is also removed
20. Remove the plug from the housing.
21. Remove anchor.
    

    The inner starter anchor is separated from the clip
22. Use a screwdriver to slide the thrust washer off the shaft.
    

    The thrust washer is pushed off the shaft with a flat blade screwdriver
23. Remove the retaining ring behind the washer.
24. Remove the freewheel from the rotor shaft.
    

    The overrunning clutch is attached to the shaft with a retainer and a retaining ring.
25. Using a drift, press out the front bearing.
    

    The front bearing is pressed out using a suitable drift

Replacing starter bushings

Signs of worn starter bushings are:

• large play of the anchor shaft;
• armature marks on the windings that it touches during rotation.

The bushings are changed on a disassembled starter. There are bushings:

• checkpoints;
• impassable.

The former are knocked out with a punch of the appropriate size or with a bolt whose diameter corresponds to the outer diameter of the sleeve.

The front thru-hub can be easily removed with a threaded bolt

The non-going rear bushing is removed with a puller or drilled out.

The non-going rear bushing is pulled out using a universal puller

A repair kit is required to replace the bushings. New bushings are usually made of sintered metal. It will also be necessary to choose the appropriate size of the mandrel. The bushings should be pressed in very carefully, avoiding strong impacts, since cermet is a rather fragile material.

Experts recommend placing new bushings in a container of engine oil for 5-10 minutes before installation. During this time, the material will absorb the oil and provide good lubrication during further operation. The bushings of the regular starter VAZ 2107 are made of bronze and are more durable.

Replacement of electric brushes

Often the starter fails due to wear on the electric brushes or coals. Diagnosing and fixing the problem is quite simple.

The coal is a graphite or copper-graphite parallelepiped with a connected and pressed-in stranded wire and an aluminum fastener. The number of coals corresponds to the number of poles in the starter.

To replace the brushes you will need:

1. Remove the rear starter cover.
2. Unscrew the screws securing the brushes.
3. Pull out the brushes.

In this case, only one bolt can be unscrewed, fixing the protective bracket, under which the coals are located.

The protective bracket is fastened with a bolt, which is turned out with a curly screwdriver

The VAZ 2107 starter has four brushes, each of which can be removed through a separate window.

Each brush can be removed from the body through specially provided windows

Starter solenoid relay repair

The main function of the solenoid relay is to move the starter gear until it engages the flywheel while simultaneously energizing. This relay is attached to the starter housing.

In addition, the VAZ 2107 also has a switch-on relay that directly controls the power supply. It can be located in various places under the hood of the car and is usually fixed with one screw.

The control relay is located under the hood and is fixed with one screw

In the event of a malfunction of the solenoid relay, the control relay is first checked. Sometimes repairs are limited to replacing a jumped wire, tightening a loose screw, or restoring oxidized contacts. After that, the elements of the solenoid relay are checked:

• the body;
• anchor;
• contacts;
• magnetic system;
• return spring.

Be sure to inspect the housing of the retractor relay. If cracks appear, voltage leakage will occur, and such a relay must be changed to a new one. Repairing the traction relay does not make sense.

Diagnosis of malfunctions of the retractor relay is carried out in the following order:

1. Starter operation is checked. If clicks are heard when the ignition key is turned, and the engine does not start, the starter is faulty, not the relay.
2. The starter is connected directly, bypassing the relay. If it works, the solenoid relay needs to be changed.
3. Winding resistance is measured with a multimeter. The holding winding should have a resistance of 75 ohms, the retracting winding - 55 ohms.
   

   When diagnosing a solenoid relay, the resistance of the windings is measured

The solenoid relay can be replaced without dismantling the starter. For this it is necessary.

1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Clean the solenoid relay and contacts from dirt.
3. Remove contact from bolt.
   

   When replacing the solenoid relay, its contact must be removed from the bolt
4. Loosen pinch bolts.
   

   Coupling bolts of the retractor relay are turned out with a pipe wrench
5. Dismantle the relay.
   

   The relay is disengaged from the cover and removed by hand

Assembly and installation of the relay is carried out in the reverse order. After completing the work, it is necessary to check the performance of the starter.

Assembling and installing the starter

In the process of disassembling the starter, it is necessary to remember or mark where the bolts, screws and other small parts were removed from. Assemble the device very carefully. In this case, do not forget to cotter the stopper holding the plug in the front cover.

Thus, diagnosing a malfunction, repairing or replacing a VAZ 2107 starter is quite simple. This does not require any special skills. A standard set of locksmith tools and instructions from specialists will be enough to do the work yourself.