Changing the oil and oil filter

Changing the engine oil and oil filter is a routine operation that is quite accessible to an ordinary motorist. Nevertheless, some nuances should be borne in mind, especially for an inexperienced driver.

The fact that lubrication facilitates the movement of rubbing parts and protects them from premature wear is known even to those who understand nothing about mechanics. But its functions in the car are not limited to this. Lubrication plays an anticorrosive role, creating a kind of protective film on metal parts. Due to the circulation of oil in the lubrication system, heat is partially removed from the parts that heat up during operation. This prevents overheating of individual parts and the entire internal combustion engine as a whole, extending its working life. In addition, the lubricant removes wear products and foreign particles from the rubbing surfaces, which also helps to extend the life of the unit. And finally, the noise level during the operation of mechanisms is significantly reduced.

Gradually, the lubricant becomes contaminated, constant strong heating degrades its performance properties over time. Therefore, periodically you need to remove the used oil and fill in new. If this is not done in a timely manner, deposits of dirt and soot will form on the surface of the parts, friction will increase, which means that the wear of the internal combustion engine will accelerate and its overhaul will approach. Dirt will be deposited on the walls of the oil lines, worsening the supply of ICE with lubricant. In addition, a polluted internal combustion engine will consume more fuel. So there is no savings here, but you can make serious problems.

First of all, you should look into the instruction manual and find out how often the automaker recommends changing the oil. Most likely, an interval of 12 ... 15 thousand kilometers or at least once a year will be indicated there. This frequency is relevant for normal operating conditions. On our roads, such conditions are the exception rather than the rule. For harsh operating conditions, the frequency should be halved, that is, the replacement should be made after 5 ... 7 thousand kilometers, but at least twice a year. If you use expensive high quality synthetic or semi-synthetic oil, the change interval can be extended.

The harsh operating conditions of the vehicle include:

• Movement in a large city with frequent traffic jams and traffic lights;
• Long-term operation of the internal combustion engine at idle;
• Using the car in cargo mode;
• Movement on mountain roads;
• Driving on dusty country roads;
• Refueling with low-quality fuel;
• Frequent ICE starts and short trips;
• Extremely high or low ambient temperature;
• Harsh driving style.

When running in a new car, the first replacement of the ICE lubricant should be carried out earlier - after driving 1500 ... 2000 kilometers.

If you bought a car in the secondary market and its history is not known, it is better to change the oil immediately, without relying on the seller's assurances that it is completely fresh. 

In the closed lubrication system of an automobile internal combustion engine, a filter is installed that cleans the oil from small particles of dirt and metal powder, which is somehow formed during the friction of parts against each other, even in the presence of lubrication. You can talk about the oil filter device and its operating parameters.

The working life of the oil filter is 10 ... 15 thousand kilometers. That is, it coincides with the ICE oil change interval during normal operation. 

However, it must be borne in mind that the ability of the filter to perform its functions depends on the condition of the lubricant. In harsh operating conditions, it becomes dirty faster, which means that the oil filter is also clogged with dirt more intensively. When the filter is very clogged, it does not pass oil well through itself. The lubricant pressure in it increases, causing the bypass valve to open. In this case, crude oil enters the internal combustion engine, bypassing the filter element. Therefore, in the general case, we can assume that the service life of the oil filter and ICE oil is the same. This means that they should be changed at the same time. 

You can change the engine oil and filter at a car service or do it yourself. There are no fundamental differences in the procedure for cars of different brands, but it never hurts to look into the service manual first. 

Try to fill in new oil of the same brand and manufacturer as the old one. The fact is that when replacing a small amount of used lubricant remains in the system and mixes with fresh. If they are of different types or have incompatible additives, this can adversely affect the performance of the lubricant.

To drain the used oil, stock up on dishes of a suitable shape and size with a capacity of at least five liters. It should be low enough to fit under the machine, and wide enough so that the drained liquid does not splash past. You will also need a clean rag, a funnel, and possibly a special wrench to remove the oil filter. To unscrew the drain plug, you will need a wrench, its size is usually 17 or 19 millimeters, but it happens that there are non-standard options. Rubber gloves will come in handy to protect your hands, as well as a flashlight.

The internal combustion engine should be warmed up to operating temperature, for this it is enough to drive a set of kilometers. Heated grease has a lower viscosity and therefore will be easier to drain. At the same time, small particles of dirt will rise from the bottom of the oil sump and be removed along with the drained oil. 

To function comfortably, put the car on a flyover or use a viewing hole. In any case, the car must stand on a flat horizontal surface, the engine is stopped, the handbrake is applied. 

1. Unscrew the oil filler cap. Raising the hood, you will see it on top of the engine and you will not confuse it with anything.
2. Remove the protection of the engine compartment, if any.
3. Substitute a container for the drained liquid.
4. Loosen the oil pan plug (it looks like the bottom of a kitchen sink). Be prepared for hot oil to spurt out abruptly. 
5. Carefully remove the plug without losing the gasket and allow the oil to drain. Do not rush to complete the drain when the oil flows in a thin stream. You have to wait until it just drips. It will not be possible to remove everything 100 percent, in any case, a certain amount of used oil will remain in the lubrication system, but the less it is, the cleaner the new lubricant will end up being. By the way, it is for this reason that express vacuum pumping, which is offered at many service stations, should be avoided. With this change method, too much used oil remains unrecovered.
6. Assess the color and smell of used oil. Blot the drain hole with a clean cloth and carefully inspect for wear debris. For an experienced person, this will help to draw some conclusions about the state of the internal combustion engine.
7. If everything is in order, replace the drain plug, screw it in by hand and tighten it a little with a wrench.
8. While the oil is draining, and this takes 5 ... 10 minutes, you can start dismantling the filter. It is assumed that you have previously studied the service documentation and found out its location. Usually strong male hands are enough to unscrew the filter. You can pre-wrap it with sandpaper. If it has become attached and does not lend itself, use a special key. This can be, for example, a belt or chain puller. As a last resort, pierce the filter with a screwdriver and use it as a lever. It is only necessary to punch in the lower part of the filter housing so as not to damage the fitting. When the filter is removed, some grease will pour out, so prepare another small reservoir in advance, or wait until the oil has completely drained from the sump and use the same container. 
9. Before installing a new filter, pour fresh oil into it - not necessarily to the top, but at least half the volume. This will avoid water hammer and filter defects when the oil pump starts pumping lubricant. In addition, the presence of a certain amount of oil in the filter will allow normal pressure in the lubrication system to be reached faster. You should also apply oil to the o-ring, this will contribute to better tightness, and when replacing the filter, it will be easier to unscrew it. In some cases, the O-ring is already factory-treated with talc or grease, in which case it does not need to be further treated.
10. Screw the filter by hand until it is snug, and then tighten it slightly with a wrench.
11. Now you can fill in fresh oil. In order not to spill by, use a funnel. First fill the set with less than indicated in the manual, and then gradually top up, controlling the level with the dipstick. Remember that excess lubrication is no less harmful to the internal combustion engine than its lack. How to correctly diagnose the oil level can be read in.
12. When finished, start the engine. The low oil pressure indicator should turn off after a set of seconds. Warm up the internal combustion engine for 5 ... 7 minutes at idle. Make sure that there is no leakage from under the drain plug and at the place where the oil filter is installed. Stop the engine and check the oil level again. Bring it up to standard if necessary. Check levels regularly for the first couple of weeks.

Do not pour the used oil anywhere, hand it over for recycling, for example, at a service station.

In most cases, flushing is not required. Moreover, it is even undesirable, since it will not be possible to completely remove the flushing liquid with the usual change method. a set percentage of the total “flush” will remain in the system and mix with fresh oil. Corrosive substances contained in the flushing fluid will adversely affect the performance of fresh lubricant and may adversely affect internal combustion engine parts. Flushing oil is less aggressive, but it is better not to use it. 

Flushing may be necessary if the car was purchased on the secondary market and it is not known for certain what is poured into the lubrication system. Or you decide to switch to a different type of oil. In this case, it is better to use the soft method of frequent change. It consists in the following: 

• The lubricant and filter are changed in the usual way, after which the car needs to drive one and a half to two thousand kilometers in the break-in mode; 
• then fresh oil is refilled and a new filter is installed, another 4000 kilometers must be driven in a gentle mode;
• Next, another oil and filter change is made, then the machine can be operated in normal mode.

Information about the viscosity and quality of internal combustion engine lubricant is available in the operating instructions for your car. The required amount of oil is also indicated there. On the Internet you can find special programs for selecting lubricants and filters according to the model and year of manufacture of the machine. In addition, this topic may be useful. Another one is devoted to the selection of transmission oil.

High-quality engine oil will cost a lot, but it will last longer. Responsibly, you need to approach the choice of filter. Installation dimensions, capacity, degree of cleaning and pressure at which the bypass valve operates must be taken into account. Avoid products from unknown manufacturers that are sold at low prices. Cheap filters contain a poor quality filter element inside that clogs quickly. The bypass valve in them may be incorrectly adjusted and open at a lower pressure than it should, passing untreated lubricant into the system. It happens that at low temperatures the case cracks, and oil begins to flow out. Such a part will not last long and will not provide proper filtration.

Engine oil from well-known manufacturers is often faked, so it is better to buy it from trusted sellers. In the Chinese online store, you can stock up on high-quality lubricant for internal combustion engines or transmissions. There you can also buy oil filters at an affordable price.