Replacing the timing belt Renault Megan 2

Special devices

We make a crankshaft lock

To block the crankshaft, you will need a bolt with a thread M10X1,5 with a length of at least 90 mm. We cut the thread to the end and on an emery board, or with a file, we grind the thread to a length of 58 mm, thus obtaining a diameter of 8. To obtain a size of 68, we put washers. Does it look like.

The most important size here is 68, it must be kept clearly. The rest can be done more or less.

We make a camshaft retainer.

The camshaft lock is even easier to make. We take a plate or a corner 5 mm wide of a suitable size and make a small groove. Everything is simple.

Dismantling the timing mechanism

First things first, you need to jack up the right side of the car and remove the wheel. Ideally, it is desirable to disassemble the bumper - it is large, placed under the body and interferes with work, but this is not necessary. After removing the right disc, remove the fender liner and plastic protection. On top of the engine compartment is the air intake housing - disconnect the sensor, disconnect the pipe and remove it.

There are camshaft covers on the left side of the engine that are difficult to salvage. Therefore, we pierce them with a wide flat screwdriver and throw them away; you will have to install new ones. To replace the timing belt, the right upper engine mount must be removed. To do this, we raise the motor on the right side so that the pillow returns to its normal position and unscrew it completely (see Fig. 2).

We remove the V-ribbed belt from the auxiliary drive generator, for which we gently squeeze the roller so as not to damage its surface. Next, you need to remove the timing covers; there are only three. For convenience, remember the location of the mounting bolts, as they are different.

How to replace the timing belt on Renault Megane 2 1.6 gasoline

Service schemes are almost the same. But there are still nuances that need to be taken into account.

Removing the belt

Service should begin by removing the old rubber assembly. To do this, the car is driven into a pit or overpass, it is not difficult to work in a garage. Remove the cover, disassemble all components. Using a spatula or a mounting screwdriver, route the crankshafts. The working part is inserted into the gaps between the teeth of the flywheel. The pulley bolt is unscrewed with a horn, after removing it, the bolt is wrapped in its place.

Release the crankshaft, check the coincidence of marks, risks. The nut is released, the strap is removed. Dirt is removed from the pump, oil drips are required.

Replacing and installing the timing belt on Renault Megan 2 1.6 gasoline

Work is carried out according to the markup, after laying the prepared timing kit. The roller is fixed, the nut is primed, no excessive force is needed. The new timing belt is attached to the gears so that the slack is from the roller. The scenario is quite simple, the main thing is to follow the rules.

The new knot is corrugated, does not contain dry and shiny places

Timing belt tension

The last step in self-sufficiency. The timing is pulled onto the roller carefully, but without constrictions, the tension and twists are checked. If the part cannot be turned at a right angle, the situation is in order, if it turns out, adjustment is needed. The nut must be well tightened.

Ignition setting (TDC)

There are marks on the camshaft pulleys that have mating marks inside the timing compartment. There is a similar mark on the crankshaft. It is necessary to connect them all in such a way that they match and are in the correct position. To do this, turn the crankshaft clockwise. If the marks match, install the camshaft retainer on the left side of the engine (see Fig. 3). There are gaps in the axes, which must remain strictly horizontal in one line.

Now you need to lock the crankshaft. To do this, at the same time stop the flywheel through the hole in the side of the gearbox and unscrew the bolt holding the crankshaft pulley. On the engine near the probe there is a plug that needs to be unscrewed. We screw the crankshaft stopper or a bolt of suitable diameter and length into this plug.

Removing and installing the timing belt for the k9k engine Renault Megane 2

Check the timing belt tension at every service. When the belt is loosened, its teeth wear out quickly, in addition, the belt can jump on the toothed pulleys of the crankshaft and camshaft, which will lead to a violation of the valve timing and a decrease in engine power, and if the jump is significant, it will be damaged.

The manufacturer recommends checking the belt tension and controlling it with a special tension gauge.

In this regard, there are no data on the force when the belt branch deviates by a certain amount in the technical documentation.

In practice, you can approximately estimate the correctness of the belt tension according to the rule of thumb: press the belt branch with your thumb and determine the deviation with a ruler. According to this universal rule, if the distance between the centers of the pulleys is between 180 and 280 mm, the deflection should be approximately 6 mm.

There is another way to pre-check the belt tension - by turning its main branch along the axis. If it is possible to turn the branch more than 90º by hand, the belt is loose.

The vehicle is equipped with a self-adjusting timing belt tensioner.

Replace the timing belt if, upon inspection, you find:

• traces of oil on any surface of the belt;
• signs of wear of the toothed surface, cracks, undercuts, folds and delamination of the rubber fabric;
• cracks, folds, depressions or protrusions on the outer surface of the belt;
• weakening or delamination at the end surfaces of the belt.

Be sure to replace a belt with traces of engine oil on any of its surfaces, as the oil will quickly degrade the rubber. Eliminate the cause of oil getting into the belt (usually a leak in the crankshaft or camshaft oil seals) immediately.

To work, you will need tools: socket heads for 10, 16, 18, a key for 13, TORX E14, a flat screwdriver, a clamp for setting the TDC, a camshaft clamp.

Replacing the timing belt Renault Scenic 1 and 2 and a manual for labeling

In Russia, Renault Scenic 2 cars are very popular, hence the demand for spare parts. As you know, there is a law that establishes an interservice mileage of up to 60 thousand km, while you need to change the entire timing complex along with the rollers. Also, after service, it may be necessary to replace the alternator belt with 1,5 or 1,6 dci. Of course, you should not save on your “favorite”, but you can do all the repairs yourself.

In car services, replacing a complete set can reach up to 10 rubles, replacing a belt with 000 dci - up to 1.5 rubles, and marking will cost at least 6 thousand.

Replacing the timing belt with a Megan 2 with a K4M engine

In the fall of 2002, Megan 2 debuted at the Paris Motor Show. Renault manufacturers have taken it upon themselves to increase the popularity of this model in Europe. The novelty of the French automobile industry impressed future car owners with a huge number of innovations, original design and other design solutions. The Renault Megan 2 car is equipped with various options for power units, a timing belt is installed on the timing mechanism. It will be useful for many owners to learn how to replace the timing belt on a Renault Megane 2.

Repair on diesel version

Although the Renault 1,5-liter diesel engine is unpretentious in operation and reliable, regular timing maintenance is desirable.

Before replacing the part, the Renault Megane 2 car is lifted using a special tool or a jack, the wheel is removed from the front axle, and the engine is supported with a second jack.

The engine mount is removed from above. Then its support assembly is removed, which is fixed on the power unit block.

We draw from the connection nodes, that is, from the generator. This is done by reducing the tension force on the corresponding mechanism.

In order not to get confused during assembly, you need to draw a disassembly diagram on a piece of paper.

The pulley is removed from the front end of the crankshaft. To do this, a colleague must get behind the wheel, shift into gear and fully depress the brake pedal. This will lock the crankshaft and allow the mounting bolt to be removed without tension.

Remove the boot from the gas distribution system. Behind the timing belt. Usually fixed with several bolts under the 10th key.

This step sets the marks of the top dead center of the 1st cylinder. To do this, use a special tool that allows you to fix the crankshaft and camshaft. On the front of the engine, where the gearbox housing is located, a cap for the Torx gear is unscrewed. Instead, the fixture is screwed in completely. Then we move on to the marking stage.

The rotation of the crankshaft must be carried out without jerks and accelerations until it is comparable to blocking. Then the camshaft mounts and the injection pump pulley are installed. This is typical for a 1,5-liter diesel.

The belt is loosened by unscrewing the tension screw.

Prepare a new spare part in advance. Can be compared with the old belt. The timing belt, rollers and the entire tensioning mechanism are replaced, which should be equipped with a timing kit for a 1,5-liter diesel engine.

After replacing all components, a new water pump of the cooling system is installed.

Important! Before replacing the pump, it is necessary to drain the exhaust of the cooling system. A new pump can be found in the scope of delivery

We put the new timing belt in its original place so as not to shift the risks. Then the necessary tension is made and the device is removed. Instead, the cork is screwed back.

Recommendation: when replacing the timing belt, use new fixing bolts

Turn the shaft in a 1,5-liter diesel engine clockwise by two turns. Align the notches of the belt again. If everything matches, you can proceed to reassembly.

Now that we have stocked up with tools, let's start

As promised, the engine is 1,6 liters with 16 valves.

We hang out the right front wheel and remove it, immediately remove the engine protection and slightly raise it over the side. From above we remove a decorative shield.

We unscrew the five 16 screws that secure the engine mount to the cylinder head. They are of different lengths, remember who is where.

Three 16 bolts that secure the bracket to the rail.

Remove the engine mount. The air conditioner pipe will greatly interfere, it can be removed a little by hand, but not broken.

Under the wing, remove the plastic protection from the noses. We unscrew the two nuts and three screws that hold the upper timing belt cover. We unscrew the nut under the wing through the technical hole.

Removed from cover for clarity.

The stud nut loosened. Each stud has a restrictive sleeve, do not lose it when removing the cover.

Loosen the four screws on the amplifier. We have one of the bolts turned in the subframe, we just have to bend it.

With a 16 wrench to the hex boss on the service belt tensioner roller, turn the roller clockwise and, when the belt loosens, remove it.

Set top dead center. For the crankshaft bolt, turn the crankshaft clockwise until the marks on the camshafts point up. The mark on the right camshaft should be slightly below the cylinder head bore.

Remove the plug from the cylinder block. For clarity, it is shown in the photo of the removed engine.

We fasten the manufactured crankshaft oil seal. Turn the crankshaft clockwise until it stops in the lock.

Under the hood, remove the intake pipe.

And the entire throttle assembly by unscrewing the four 10 screws.

We pierce the plugs of the camshafts with a screwdriver and take them out.

The position of the slots must be horizontal and they must be below the longitudinal axis of the camshafts.

We insert the camshaft retainer into the grooves. If everything is configured correctly, it will enter without much effort.

We stop the crankshaft using the fifth gear and a screwdriver on the brake disc. To eliminate excessive force on the axle, start the fifth one first, then manually turn the brake disc clockwise until it stops and insert a flat screwdriver into the first hole in the disc under the caliper. Then unscrew the crankshaft bolt. We remove the pulley.

We unscrew the four screws for 10 of the lower timing belt cover and remove it. The removed cover is shown for clarity.

We unscrew the nut of the tensioner pulley and remove it together with the timing belt.

We drain the antifreeze. We unscrew the bypass roller through the technological hole under the wing, for this you need an asterisk and a pump (seven bolts for 10 and one for 13). There is a washer under the bypass roller, do not lose it.

We apply a thin layer of sealant to the new pump and gasket and, having previously cleaned the contact points on the cylinder block, put it in place. Tighten the bolts evenly around the circumference.

Before installation, we check everything again. All latches are in place, the crankshaft rests against its latch, and the slot is facing up and slightly to the left.

If so, proceed with installing a new timing belt. Here we slightly deviate from the instructions for our own convenience. First, we position the tension roller so that the protrusion at the back enters the groove on the pump (see photo above). We do not tighten the nut. Then we tightly put the belt on the camshaft sprockets and fix it with ties. Don't forget the direction of rotation.

We put it on the tensioner roller, crankshaft sprocket and pump. We put the bypass roller in place, do not forget about the washer, tighten it.

Using a mirror and a 5 hexagon, turn the tension roller until the marks match. The direction in which the roller should rotate is marked with an arrow.

Tighten the idler nut. We put the lower plastic cover of the timing belt and the crankshaft pulley. Just as we unscrew the bolt from the crankshaft, we turn it. Only the screwdriver is now on the clamp. Take out fasteners. We turn the crankshaft four turns, put on the crankshaft lock, lean the crankshaft against it and check if the camshaft lock enters the grooves and if the tension roller marks have deviated. If all is well, we collect everything that was removed in the reverse order of removal.

Do not forget to remove the clamps and screw in place the cylinder block plug and press in new camshaft plugs. Fill with antifreeze and start the car. You can forget about this procedure for another 115 km. Do not forget to regularly check the condition of the belt and its tension at least once every 000.

Preparatory operations

As promised, the engine is 1,6 liters with 16 valves.

We hang out the right front wheel and remove it, immediately remove the engine protection and slightly raise it over the side. From above we remove a decorative shield.

We unscrew the five 16 screws that secure the engine mount to the cylinder head. They are of different lengths, remember who is where.

Three 16 bolts that secure the bracket to the rail.

Remove the engine mount. The air conditioner pipe will greatly interfere, it can be removed a little by hand, but not broken.

Under the wing, remove the plastic protection from the noses. We unscrew the two nuts and three screws that hold the upper timing belt cover. We unscrew the nut under the wing through the technical hole.

Removed from cover for clarity.

The stud nut loosened. Each stud has a restrictive sleeve, do not lose it when removing the cover.

Loosen the four screws on the amplifier. We have one of the bolts turned in the subframe, we just have to bend it.

With a 16 wrench to the hex boss on the service belt tensioner roller, turn the roller clockwise and, when the belt loosens, remove it.

Set top dead center

For the crankshaft bolt, turn the crankshaft clockwise until the marks on the camshafts point up. The mark on the right camshaft should be slightly below the cylinder head bore.

Remove the plug from the cylinder block. For clarity, it is shown in the photo of the removed engine.

We fasten the manufactured crankshaft oil seal.

Turn the crankshaft clockwise until it stops in the lock.

Under the hood, remove the intake pipe.

And the entire throttle assembly by unscrewing the four 10 screws.

We pierce the plugs of the camshafts with a screwdriver and take them out.

The position of the slots must be horizontal and they must be below the longitudinal axis of the camshafts.

We insert the camshaft retainer into the grooves. If everything is configured correctly, it will enter without much effort.

We stop the crankshaft using the fifth gear and a screwdriver on the brake disc. To eliminate excessive force on the axle, start the fifth one first, then manually turn the brake disc clockwise until it stops and insert a flat screwdriver into the first hole in the disc under the caliper. Then unscrew the crankshaft bolt. We remove the pulley.

Never loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt with the starter.

We unscrew the four screws for 10 of the lower timing belt cover and remove it. The removed cover is shown for clarity.

We unscrew the nut of the tensioner pulley and remove it together with the timing belt.

Replacing the pump

We drain the antifreeze. We unscrew the bypass roller through the technological hole under the wing, for this you need an asterisk and a pump (seven bolts for 10 and one for 13). There is a washer under the bypass roller, do not lose it.

We apply a thin layer of sealant to the new pump and gasket and, having previously cleaned the contact points on the cylinder block, put it in place.

Tighten the bolts evenly around the circumference.

Features of replacement on other motors

The procedure for replacing the timing belt on a Renault Megane 2 with a 16-liter 1,4-valve engine is absolutely identical to the procedure described above on a 1,6-liter counterpart.

But what about diesel? Replacing a timing belt on a Renault Megane 2 with a diesel engine is not much different from gasoline options. But there are some differences:

• The belt cover is made of plastic and is held in place by latches and a pin connecting the halves of the cover. This pin can only be unscrewed through a hole in the stringer. To do this, you will have to change the position of the motor until the pin is in front of the hole.
• Before removing the housing, it is necessary to remove the sensor that determines the position of the camshaft.
• The camshaft is fixed with a pin with a diameter of 8 mm, which is inserted into the gear hole and the hole in the head. The crankshaft is fixed with a stopper (original number Mot1489). Candles for gasoline and diesel engines have different lengths!
• Because the belt also drives the fuel delivery pump, its gear aligns with the notch in the direction of the single bolt head on the crankcase.

Reasons for failing

As a rule, premature replacement of the Renault Megan 2 timing belt leads to the fact that it breaks, this of course happens very rarely and leads to foreign objects entering the gas distribution system. The most serious consequences of a breakdown are associated with the destruction of valves and a camshaft. Elimination of these consequences is a time-consuming and very expensive procedure. Therefore, the belt must be changed in a timely manner.

Equalizing the mechanism by points

Next, you need to check everything by the position of the label. If there are no points for spare parts, it's not scary. The main thing is that they are on the pump and crankshaft. After you need to check the pistons through the candles so that everything matches. Even if you skip a stage by a tooth, the car will take longer to accelerate. This can have consequences: at high speed, a piston or part of a valve may fly off.

Malfunctions during repairs are often indicated by an engine that does not start either the first or second time. Possibly air in the pipes. There are not many reasons to look for a problem in a service for thousands of rubles, but if you cannot do it yourself, contact the specialists.

Marking may not be done, but this is a guarantee of safe driving after repair. This won't take long as you will need to check the belt tension.

New items always have tags. Sometimes during disassembly, you can notice that the mark has shifted by 15-20 degrees. The dot must be pointing up and perpendicular to the ground. Marks on dci cars can move after turning the belt, fixation is important here.

The crankshaft mark also looks up, and the injection pump looks at the block on the bolt. We crank the crankshaft to the maximum and see that the marks have gathered. If something does not fit, redo the stretch and then double-check everything. Important! When tightening with a closed pulley, care must be taken to ensure that the right side of the belt is tensioned naturally, without the use of force. Camshaft offset is not needed here. The tension force on the left branch is selected by the tensioner itself.

Sequence of work execution

The procedure for replacing the timing belt with a Renault Megane with a 1,6 16 valve engine (the most common option) is described below:

• We put the car on a lift or in a pit.
• Raise the car with a jack and remove the front wheel (on the right) and the plastic protective cover on the arch.
• Remove the motor shield and slightly raise it with a jack. A wooden insert is placed between the crankcase and the jack head, since without it you can easily damage the deck. A standard mechanical jack or a hydraulic jack can be used for lifting.

• Remove the top plastic cover from the engine.
• Loosen the bolts to attach the motor mount to the head. There are five bolts in total. The bots have a different dyne, it is better to indicate their relative position.
• Remove the three bolts securing the bracket to the body side member.
• Remove the pillow. At the same time, it must be carefully removed through the gap between the air conditioner tube and the body.
• Remove the upper part of the metal belt cover. It is fixed with two nuts and three bolts. Access to the nut is only possible through the mounting hole in the wheel arch. Under the removed cover, a belt, two gears and a phase shifter are visible.

• Remove the steel reinforcing plate between the subframe and the body.
• Remove the V-ribbed belt from the attachments.
• Rotate the shaft through the pulley nut clockwise, setting the marks on the gears to rotate the camshafts. Make the direction of the marks up, while the right mark should not slightly reach the slot in the head body.
• Secure the crankshaft with a special bolt by screwing it into the crankcase hole. It is located next to the flywheel (below the stem hole) and is closed with a screw plug. Having screwed the bolt all the way, you need to turn the shaft clockwise until it contacts the latch rod. In this case, the piston of the first cylinder will be in the maximum upper position. The position can be checked through the hole in the spark plug head.

• Remove the air supply line and throttle assembly.
• Use a screwdriver to pry off the plastic plugs from the camshafts.
• Insert the retaining template into the grooves on the camshafts. The slots must be on the same straight line and below the axis of the axes. A latch up to 5 mm thick should fit effortlessly.

• Loosen the bolt and remove the pulley. The bolt is loosened either by the starter or by shifting into gear and holding the brakes.
• Unlock the bottom of the metal belt cover, secured with four bolts.
• Loosen the idler pulley bolt.
• Take out the belt.
• Drain the fluid and remove the pump, which is secured with eight bolts. To drain antifreeze, a hose from the expansion tank is usually used.
• Remove the bypass roller.
• Apply sealant to gasket and mating surfaces of pump and block. Install the pump and tighten the bolts in a circle.
• Install the intermediate pulley and put the belt on the camshaft gears. When installing, take into account the direction of rotation of the mechanism. Temporarily secure it with zip ties.
• Pull the belt over the remaining gears and install the bypass roller. Do not forget to put the washer under the roller, which was left from the previous one.
• Turn the eccentric in the center of the idler with an Allen key until the pointer on the cam aligns with the mark on the housing. The direction of rotation is indicated on the eccentric.
• Tighten the bolt to secure the roller as far as it will go. Install lower housing half and pulley. Remove clamps and fasteners. Turn the motor shaft 4-8 turns and check the alignment of the marks and grooves on the template.
• Fill with fresh liquid.
• Reinstall all removed parts.

What engines are equipped

Renault Megan 2 cars are equipped with various engine modifications. They have a working volume of 1400 cm 3, 1600 cm 3, 2000 cm 3, develop power from 72 to 98 hp. The engine block is made of cast iron, the cylinder head is made of aluminum alloy. It has two camshafts that are driven by a toothed belt. A feature of these power units is the fact that periodic replacement of the Renault Megan 2 timing belt is required after a certain vehicle mileage.

K4J

This is a gasoline engine, in-line, with a working volume of 1400 cm3. At the output, you can get a power of 72 hp. Cylinder diameter 79,5 mm, piston stroke 70 mm, the working mixture is compressed by 10 units. There are two overhead camshafts, which means there are 4 valves for each cylinder, two for the intake and exhaust channels. The timing mechanism is driven by a toothed belt.

K4M

This engine has a larger displacement, which is equal to 1600 cm 3, which made it possible to increase engine power to 83 hp. The cylinder diameter has become smaller, its value is 76,5 mm, but the piston stroke has increased, now it has a value of 80,5 mm in the cylinder head, there are also two camshafts and 4 valves per cylinder (4 cylinders in a row, 16 valves). The valve mechanism is also driven by a toothed belt. The compression ratio of the working mixture in the cylinders is 10.

F4R

The working volume of this engine is already about 2 thousand cm 3, which makes it possible to obtain a power of about 98,5 hp. The cylinder diameter is increased, the piston stroke is equal to 82,7 mm and 93 mm, respectively. Each cylinder has 4 valves that drive two camshafts. The thermal clearance of the valve mechanism on all engines is regulated by hydraulic compensators. The fuel system of the engine is injection.

Do-it-yourself timing belt replacement for Renault Megan 2

The power unit of any vehicle provides for the presence of a gas distribution mechanism. The drive of this system can be belt, gear or chain. Renault Megan 2 has a timing belt.

However, many motorists have no idea how to replace or install belts. The article only talks about the procedure for auto-replacing this component on a Renault Megane 2 with a diesel or gasoline internal combustion engine.

In addition, you will receive answers to questions about the frequency of replacement, the causes of failure and possible consequences.

What is the cause of the malfunction

Most often, a timing belt malfunction occurs on Renault Megane 2 due to untimely replacement. However, there are situations of breakdown and a new accessory. Such breakdowns happen quite rarely, but they cannot be ruled out, since third-party objects periodically get into the timing, causing the belt to break on Renault 1,5 diesel.

Renault Megan 2 does not provide for the possibility of checking the belt, since it must remain intact during the entire period of operation. Visually, its integrity is not determined. Just replacing the timing belt.

A broken belt can cause varying degrees of difficulty, the problem of occurrence and is determined by the type of internal combustion engine. In most cases, Renault Megane 2 can detect the following problems caused by a broken belt drive: deformation of the valve system, destruction of the camshaft in the 1,5 engine.

Replacing the timing belt with a Renault Megan 2 is a rather costly task and, moreover, time-consuming. Only accessories suitable for Renault coding must be installed. This guarantees a long service life for your Renault Megane 2.

When to replace

Replacing the timing belt on Megane is recommended every 100 thousand kilometers. It is the plant that produces Renault Megane 2 that gives such advice, but the recommendations of experts suggest that it is advisable to change it every 60-70 thousand km.

Therefore, as soon as a value close to critical is registered on the odometer, the belt should be replaced.

Also, when buying a car from hand, it is advisable to purchase a timing kit during maintenance and install a new spare part.

Repair on diesel version

Although the Renault 1,5-liter diesel engine is unpretentious in operation and reliable, regular timing maintenance is desirable.

Before replacing the part, the Renault Megane 2 car is lifted using a special tool or a jack, the wheel is removed from the front axle, and the engine is supported with a second jack.

The engine mount is removed from above. Then its support assembly is removed, which is fixed on the power unit block.

We draw from the connection nodes, that is, from the generator. This is done by reducing the tension force on the corresponding mechanism.

In order not to get confused during assembly, you need to draw a disassembly diagram on a piece of paper.

The pulley is removed from the front end of the crankshaft. To do this, a colleague must get behind the wheel, shift into gear and fully depress the brake pedal. This will lock the crankshaft and allow the mounting bolt to be removed without tension.

Remove the boot from the gas distribution system. Behind the timing belt. Usually fixed with several bolts under the 10th key.

This step sets the marks of the top dead center of the 1st cylinder. To do this, use a special tool that allows you to fix the crankshaft and camshaft. On the front of the engine, where the gearbox housing is located, a cap for the Torx gear is unscrewed. Instead, the fixture is screwed in completely. Then we move on to the marking stage.

The rotation of the crankshaft must be carried out without jerks and accelerations until it is comparable to blocking. Then the camshaft mounts and the injection pump pulley are installed. This is typical for a 1,5-liter diesel.

The belt is loosened by unscrewing the tension screw.

Prepare a new spare part in advance. Can be compared with the old belt. The timing belt, rollers and the entire tensioning mechanism are replaced, which should be equipped with a timing kit for a 1,5-liter diesel engine.

After replacing all components, a new water pump of the cooling system is installed.

We put the new timing belt in its original place so as not to shift the risks. Then the necessary tension is made and the device is removed. Instead, the cork is screwed back.

Turn the shaft in a 1,5-liter diesel engine clockwise by two turns. Align the notches of the belt again. If everything matches, you can proceed to reassembly.

Features of replacing the timing belt for Renault Megan 2 1.5 diesel

Maintenance of vehicles with diesel engines is carried out according to a standard plan. Service checks are repeated annually or every 15 thousand km, if necessary, they can be done more often. Optional replacement timing on a full diesel pump. The rest of the work plan is standard.

Diesel or gasoline in the case of a timing belt is not the main thing in the service

Alternative method

Another way to additionally check the correct installation of the phases is to mark the old belt and drive gears. The marking is applied to all contact points of the belt and gear.

Then the marking is transferred to a new belt and installed on the gears in accordance with the marking on them. After that, the motor is turned several times by hand for another stage of control.

Works of work

1. This work is best done on a flyover or pit.
2. Remove the right wheel.
3. Remove the wing protection.
4. We remove the casing of the propulsion system.
5. To remove the top shroud, you need to place a piece of wood between the engine pan and the frame rail.
6. Now you need to remove the pendulum mount from the engine.
7. We remove the ignition coil, muffler, disconnect all wiring.
8. Next, we need to remove the shield located in the power unit compartment.
9. Now loosen the belt tension. Pay attention to the location of the belt tensioner so as not to confuse it when installing a new consumable.

Remove the top cover. Loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt. Before that, it will have to be blocked. To do this, you can use a special tool, or you can use a regular screwdriver. The fixing roller must be removed, after which we also remove the cover from below. Now you need to remove the camshaft plugs. Turn the crankshaft pulley clockwise. To do this, you need to screw in the fixing bolt. This is done until the slots are in the same plane. And it will be even more correct if you do not bring them into this position a little. Unscrew the plug located to the right of the oil dipstick. In its place, you need to screw the latch, which will have to be done in advance.

Now we turn the crankshaft to a complete stop on the latch. It is necessary to ensure that the grooves located on the camshafts are in the same plane and located under the shafts. We put the lock on the camshafts and loosen the tension of the timing drive. Let's dismantle it. Be sure to pay attention to the tension rollers. If their condition is unsatisfactory, it is also better to replace them with new ones. We install a new belt, and only after that we install a bypass roller. Pull the roller until the marks are completely aligned. Remove all clips and turn the crankshaft 4 full turns. Check the condition of the belt tension. The tension should be optimal: jerks and falls are not allowed. Install the locking pulley bottom cover.

After that, it remains to install the remaining parts in a different order and check the operation of the system. To do this, start the engine and listen to how it works. If there are no extraneous noises, then you did everything right.

Making clamps

To block the crankshaft, you will need a bolt with a thread M10X1,5 with a length of at least 90 mm. We cut the thread to the end and on an emery board, or with a file, we grind the thread to a length of 58 mm, thus obtaining a diameter of 8. To obtain a size of 68, we put washers. Does it look like.

The most important size here is 68, it must be kept clearly. The rest can be done more or less.

The camshaft lock is even easier to make. We take a plate or a corner 5 mm wide of a suitable size and make a small groove. Everything is simple.

Articles

To replace the timing belt Renault Megane 2nd generation with a 1.6 K4M engine with the original one, use the article 130C13191R. The Renault kit includes a belt drive, tensioner and intermediate roller. You can also use replacement kits from the following companies:

Original timing belt Renault Megan 2 130C13191R

• NTN-SNR-KD455.57;
• DAIKO-KTV517;
• FENOX-R32106;
• KONTITECH-CT1179K4;
• INA-530063910.

If it is necessary to replace the Renault Megan 2 crankshaft pulley, original and analog spare parts are also available. The original produced by Renault has the following article: 8200699517. Among the analogues stand out:

Original crankshaft pulley Renault Megan 2 8200699517

• AMIVA-1624001;
• SASIK-2154011;
• RUBBER METAL - 04735;
• NTN-SNR-DPF355.26;
• GATE-TVD1126A.

The catalog number of the rear crankshaft oil seal Megane II: 289132889R from Renault. In addition to analogues:

Crankshaft rear oil seal Megane II 289132889R

• STELLOX-3400014SX;
• ELRING-507,822;
• BGA-OS8307;
• ROYAL ELVIS-8146801;
• FRANCE CAR - FCR210177.

When replacing the timing belt, other replacement parts may be required. This is due to recommendations for wear and replacement (Renault Megan 2 camshaft oil seal):

• 820-055-7644 - item of the new crankshaft pulley bolt;
• ROSTECO 20-698 (33 to 42 to 6) Intake camshaft oil seal Pos.

To replace the Renault Megan II belt drive yourself, you will need a special tool: JTC-6633 - catalog number of the crankshaft and camshaft clamp kit.

Installing a new timing belt

Before installation, we check everything again. All latches are in place, the crankshaft rests against its latch, and the slot is facing up and slightly to the left.

If so, proceed with installing a new timing belt. Here we slightly deviate from the instructions for our own convenience. First, we position the tension roller so that the protrusion at the back enters the groove on the pump (see photo above). We do not tighten the nut. Then we tightly put the belt on the camshaft sprockets and fix it with ties. Don't forget the direction of rotation.

We put it on the tensioner roller, crankshaft sprocket and pump. We put the bypass roller in place, do not forget about the washer, tighten it.

Using a mirror and a 5 hexagon, turn the tension roller until the marks match.

The direction in which the roller should rotate is marked with an arrow.

Tighten the idler nut. We put the lower plastic cover of the timing belt and the crankshaft pulley. Just as we unscrew the bolt from the crankshaft, we turn it. Only the screwdriver is now on the clamp. Take out fasteners. We turn the crankshaft four turns, put on the crankshaft lock, lean the crankshaft against it and check if the camshaft lock enters the grooves and if the tension roller marks have deviated. If all is well, we collect everything that was removed in the reverse order of removal.

Do not forget to remove the clamps and screw in place the cylinder block plug and press in new camshaft plugs. Fill with antifreeze and start the car. You can forget about this procedure for another 115 km. Do not forget to regularly check the condition of the belt and its tension at least once every 000.