Reasons for jamming the ignition switch

During the operation of the car, the owner has to deal with many small problems. They are quite easy to remove and cause little discomfort. But sometimes there are unpleasant breakdowns that put the motorist in a very uncomfortable position. For example, the key is stuck and does not turn in the ignition. The malfunction is not serious, but it is quite capable of crossing out your plans for the next day. Try to get out of the situation yourself and solve the problem in one of the proven ways.

Briefly about the work of the castle

This switching unit is designed to turn on electrical equipment, ignition and start the engine using a key. For the convenience of the driver and the implementation of the anti-theft (blocking) function, the element is integrated into the design of the steering column on the right side.

On old Soviet cars, the keyhole was located to the left of the steering wheel.

The castle consists of the following elements:

1. Cylindrical steel body.
2. Inside the box there is a secret key mechanism - a larva.
3. The contact group is connected to the larva by a strap.
4. A locking rod connected to the locking mechanism protrudes from a side slot in the housing.

Simultaneously with turning the key, the larva rotates the axis of the contact group. Depending on the selected position (usually 4 of them), voltage is supplied to different consumers: electrical equipment, ignition system and starter. The locking rod blocks the steering wheel only in the first position (Lock). In the same position, the key is removed from the well.

Causes of the problem

Car ignition locks are fairly reliable devices. Before the first problems associated with wear appear, the car manages to cover from 100 to 300 thousand km, depending on the brand and country of production. In order not to get into an unpleasant situation, the motorist must clearly catch the moment the key is stuck in any position and take measures to eliminate the problem.

There are 5 main reasons why the ignition lock of a modern car is jammed:

• the lock of the axis connecting the steering wheel to the rack has worked and is not turned off;
• the moving parts of the secret mechanism are heavily clogged;
• working wear of elements (on machines with high mileage);
• freezing of condensate;
• deformation or mechanical damage to the key.

Note. These problems have been successfully fixed on newer cars with keyless entry and push-button engine start.

The task of the locking system is to mechanically fix the steering shaft in one position and at the same time turn off the starter. If an attacker manages to break the striker bar and turn the steering wheel, the engine will still not be able to start. This nuance must be taken into account when eliminating the breakdown of the lock. A characteristic symptom of a malfunction is the key sticking in the locked position.

The clogging of the larvae with dirt is a consequence of the lubrication of parts with conventional automotive oils, including motor oils. These liquids strongly attract dust, which eventually accumulates inside the mechanism. At some point, the key gets stuck and gets stuck in any position other than Start. Hence, it becomes difficult to extract it.

Similar symptoms are observed as a result of the natural wear of the locking mechanism in cars with a mileage of more than 200 thousand km. Over a long period of use, the grooves in the secret part of the key also wear out, which does not allow them to clearly interact with the larva. Sometimes motorists themselves spoil the working side of the key, using it as a lever (for example, to open traffic jams). Soft alloy easily bends and cracks during such exercises.

Freezing of the larva is a rare and very harmless cause of a malfunction. The ice inside the castle appears as a result of moisture from the outside or condensation when a warm car is left outside in severe frosts. The sign of freezing is easy to recognize: the inserted key does not turn, the mechanism does not feel the typical “shaking” when trying to turn.

What to do with blocking?

When the ignition key is stuck in the locked position, the mechanical lock will work depending on the steering wheel angle. If the flywheel fell into the sector of action of the locking rod, it will fix the shaft in a certain position. As a result, it will be possible to deliver the car to the place of repair only with the help of a tow truck; cannot be towed.

What actions can the driver take in such a situation:

• overcome the jammed mechanism with patience and work;
• break the lock rod, start the engine and move to the garage;
• remove the ignition lock by pulling the rod out of the socket.

The first method involves numerous attempts to turn the key in order to "catch" the position with the mechanism open. Be patient, exhale and try to turn the key head by moving the handwheel. An aerosol lubricant like WD-40 can sometimes help get stuck grub bits out: blow through the tube and into the keyhole.

The first option is the only one that allows the motorist to get by with "little blood" and get to the garage or gas station. Try the method before taking drastic measures. Let your wife turn the key; all of a sudden he gets it right the first time.

On vehicles that do not have an electronic ignition lock, you can break the traction by turning the steering wheel sharply, applying a medium force. The car is then started by closing the cables or turning the loose key. What is flooded with such a barbaric method:

• a broken rod will remain inside the steering column, where it will begin to rub, seize and wedge the shaft;
• due to excessive force, the rod may bend, and when repairing the lock, it will have to be replaced with a new one;
• if the larva remains motionless, then you will need to remove the casing, get to the contacts and find the necessary wires to turn on the power supply.

The complete disassembly option is suitable for all situations where the lock sticks. The task is not easy: you need a tool and an understanding of how to disassemble the assembly on a specific car model. The task is to get rid of the blockage and get to the contact group, the axis of which can be turned manually or with a screwdriver.

In any case, unscrew the plastic trim of the steering column and inspect the lock bracket - it is possible to remove it. After loosening the nuts or bolts, disconnect the housing and at the same time move the handlebar to release the locking rod. In case of an unsuccessful scenario, it remains only to call a tow truck.

Blockage and freezing of the larva

Due to the accumulated dirt inside the lock, the key sticks and sticks in various positions. If the jam occurs in the intermediate position indicated by the letters ON and ACC, it cannot be cleared. How to proceed:

• get WD-40 in an aerosol can at your local auto parts store and blow into the mechanism through the keyholes;
• try to turn the key, turning it in different directions and shaking it in the lock;
• periodically add lubricants to dissolve the dirt inside the larva;
• lightly tap the head of the key and block it with a light hammer or similar object.

Recommendation. While driving, hold the vehicle with the handbrake. If you focus on the stuck mechanism, you may not notice the car turning.

The lock can usually be removed by the above methods and the key turned at least once. This is enough to get to the nearest car service or garage. If the attempts were unsuccessful, it is necessary to dismantle the lock or get to the contact group in another way. Without disconnecting the wires, turn the shaft with a screwdriver and start the motor. Don't touch the key; you can accidentally activate the mechanical lock.

A frozen mechanism is “cured” by heating it. You can’t pour hot water - just heat the tap with a lighter, insert it into the well and try to turn it. The second option is to fill the mechanism with warm WD-40 grease from a heated can.

Key wear and deformation

In a situation where a worn ignition lock sticks, it is necessary to carry out all the manipulations described above. The task is to start the engine and deliver the car to the place of repair. Use a similar approach: swing and turn the key, spray on the grub.

If you are on the road far away from any store, please use engine oil for lubrication. Remove the dipstick from the motor and put a drop of lubricant on the working part of the key, then insert it into the well several times. If there is no result, disassemble the lock; there is no other way out.

Often the cause of the jamming of the lock is a crooked key. Having found the deformation, bend the corrugated part into a flat area with light and precise hammer blows. A cracked or broken key must not be used; a piece of metal may remain in the lock the next time you try to start the engine.