Steering VAZ 2107: purpose, adjustment, malfunctions and their elimination

Almost all cars, regardless of brand and class, are equipped with a steering gear and the VAZ 2107 is no exception. The safety of driving directly depends on the state of this structure, which must be periodically inspected, adjusted, and, if necessary, repaired.

Steering VAZ 2107

The steering mechanism of the VAZ "seven" consists of several nodes connected together by means of fasteners. These units and their constituent elements, like any other part of the car, wear out over time and become unusable. The appointment, design, repair and maintenance of the VAZ 2107 steering should be discussed in more detail.

appointment

The main function that is assigned to the steering mechanism is to ensure the movement of the car in the direction specified by the driver. On most passenger cars, the trajectory of movement is carried out by turning the wheels of the front axle. The steering mechanism of the "seven" is quite complex, but at the same time provides hassle-free control in different situations on the road. The car is equipped with a safety steering column with a cardan shaft that folds upon impact. The steering wheel of the mechanism in question has a diameter of 40 cm and for a full turn of the wheels it is necessary to make only 3,5 turns, which allows you to perform maneuvers without much difficulty.

What it consists of

The front wheel control mechanism on the VAZ 2107 is made of the following basic elements:

• steering wheel;
• shaft;
• gearbox;
• bipod;
• trapezium;
• pendulum;
• rotary knuckles.

Steering VAZ 2107: 1 - lateral thrust; 2 - bipod; 3 - medium thrust; 4 - pendulum lever; 5 - adjusting clutch; 6 - lower ball joint of the front suspension; 7 - right rotary fist; 8 - upper ball joint of the front suspension; 9 — the right lever of a rotary fist; 10 - pendulum arm bracket; 11 - bearing of the upper steering shaft; 12, 19 - steering shaft mounting bracket; 13 - pipe bracket for mounting the steering shaft; 14 - upper steering shaft; 15 - steering gear housing; 16 - intermediate steering shaft; 17 - facing casing of the steering shaft; 18 - steering wheel; 20 — fixing plate front bracket; 21 - coupling bolt of the cardan joint; 22 - body spar

Steering shaft

Through the shaft, rotation from the steering wheel is transmitted to the steering column. The shaft is fixed with a bracket to the car body. Structurally, the element is made in the form of a cardan with crosses and an upper shaft. In the event of a collision, the mechanism folds, thereby ensuring the safety of the driver.

Reducer

VAZ 2107 is equipped with a worm steering column, which converts the rotational movement of the steering wheel into the translational movement of the steering rods. The principle of operation of the steering mechanism is as follows:

1. The driver turns the steering wheel.
2. By means of universal joints, the worm shaft is driven, which reduces the number of turns of the steering wheel.
3. The worm element rotates by moving the double-ridged roller.
4. The secondary shaft rotates, on which the bipod is fixed, which drives the steering rods.
5. The trapezoid moves the steering knuckles, turning the wheels in the right direction.

One of the main nodes in the steering mechanism is the steering column.

The steering arm is the part by which the steering linkage is connected to the steering gear.

Steering link

The radius of the trajectory of the machine when turning depends on the angle of rotation of the wheels. Since the radius of the outer wheel is larger than that of the inner wheel, in order to avoid slippage of the latter and deterioration of grip with the road surface, the front wheels must deviate at different angles.

The front wheels must turn at different angles so that there is no slippage

For this, a steering trapezoid is used. During the maneuver, the transverse link of the mechanism is displaced under the influence of the bipod. Thanks to the pendulum lever, it pushes and pulls the side rods. Since there is a misalignment, the effect on the tie rod ends is different, which leads to the rotation of the wheels at a different angle. The tips of the trapezoid with rods are connected by means of adjusting couplings, which allow you to change the angle of rotation of the wheels. The details of the trapezoid are connected to each other by identical ball joints. This design contributes to the normal operation of the unit even when driving on bad roads.

The steering linkage allows the front wheels to turn at different angles

Pendulum lever

The steering pendulum of the "seven" is necessary for the synchronous rotation of the wheels of the front axle without delay. Thus, the car is able to safely pass corners. If malfunctions occur with the pendulum, the characteristics of the vehicle deteriorate during maneuvers, which can lead to an emergency.

The pendulum is designed to synchronously turn the wheels when the steering wheel is turned.

Rounded fist

The main purpose of the steering knuckle (trunnion) is to ensure that the front wheels turn in the direction desired for the driver. The part is made of durable steel, since high loads are placed on it. Tie rod ends, hubs, elements of the brake system are also attached to the fists. The trunnion is fixed to the front suspension arms with ball bearings.

Steering problems

The steering mechanism, like any other vehicle component, wears out and needs to be repaired over time. To simplify the search and elimination of breakdowns, there are certain signs that allow you to find out the nature of the breakdown and eliminate it in a short time.

Oil leak

On the "classic" the problem of "wet" steering gear is quite common. There can be many reasons for this:

• seal wear;
• leakage from under the gasket;
• loosening of the fasteners that secure the cover of the mechanism;
• input shaft corrosion.

If the stuffing box and gaskets can be replaced, the bolts can be tightened, then if the shaft is damaged, the part will have to be ground.

One of the options to get rid of oil leaks from the gearbox with good oil seals is to treat the cover with a sealant

Tight steering wheel

Sometimes it happens that turning the steering wheel requires much more effort than usual. Several reasons can cause this error:

• incorrect wheel alignment;
• failure of one of the elements in the steering mechanism;
• the gap between the worm and the roller is broken;
• the pendulum axle is too tight.

Steering play

One of the reasons for the appearance of free play in the steering mechanism is the wear of the shaft crosses. In addition to them, play appears in the gearbox itself. If the assembly has a high mileage, then it is advisable to disassemble it, inspect the condition of all the elements, replace parts with high wear, and then carry out the adjustment.

Knock and vibration

If a kickback is felt on the steering wheel while driving, then there can be many reasons for this phenomenon. Driving a vehicle in such a technical condition leads to fatigue and reduces the level of safety. Therefore, the steering mechanism needs to be diagnosed.

Table: causes of vibrations and knocks on the steering wheel and how to eliminate them

Cause of steering failure	Troubleshooting method
Increased clearance in the front wheel bearings	Adjust the clearance of the front wheel hubs
Loosening the nuts of the ball pins of the steering rods	Tighten the ball stud nuts
Increased clearance between the pendulum axle and bushings	Replace pendulum arm bushings or bracket assembly
Swing arm axle adjusting nut loose	Adjust the tightness of the pendulum nut
The gap in the engagement of the roller with the worm or in the bearings of the worm is broken	Adjust gap
Increased clearance in ball joints of steering rods	Replace tips or tie rods
Loose steering gear housing or swingarm bracket	Tighten the bolt nuts
Loosening the swing arm nuts	Tighten nuts

Trouble-shooting

As the vehicle is used, individual components of the steering mechanism gradually wear out. For comfortable and safe driving, as well as to avoid uneven tire wear, any defects in the steering mechanism must be eliminated in a timely manner.

Steering gearbox

To identify problems with the steering column, the assembly will need to be removed from the machine. To do this, prepare the following list of tools:

• a set of keys;
• crank;
• heads;
• steering puller.

Dismantling is carried out in the following sequence:

1. We drive the car onto a flyover or lift.
2. We unscrew the fasteners of the cardan shaft to the column shaft.
3. We unscrew the nuts with which the tie rod fingers are attached to the bipod, and then squeeze out the fingers with a puller.
   

   We unscrew the nuts and press the ball pins out of the bipod with a puller
4. Using a 19 wrench, we unscrew the nuts with which the gearbox is fixed to the left power element of the body, holding the bolts on the back side with a wrench of the same size.
   

   To remove the gearbox from the car, you will need to unscrew the three nuts by 19
5. We remove the bolts, and then the column shaft itself from the intermediate shaft.
   

   We remove the bolt and column shaft from the intermediate shaft
6. We turn the bipod until it rests against the eye "A" and dismantle the assembly from the machine.
   

   We rest the bipod against the eye and dismantle the gearbox

We disassemble the mechanism for troubleshooting parts:

1. Using a 30 wrench, unscrew the nut holding the bipod.
   

   Using a 30 wrench, unscrew the bipod mounting nut
2. We remove the bipod with a puller or knock it down with a hammer.
   

   We install the puller and use it to pull the bipod from the shaft
3. We unscrew the fastening elements of the top cover, remove it and carefully drain the lubricant.
   

   To remove the top cover, unscrew 4 bolts
4. We take out the bipod shaft from the body.
   

   From the gearbox housing we remove the bipod shaft with a roller
5. We unscrew the fastening of the worm cover and remove it together with the seals.
   

   To remove the worm shaft cover, unscrew the corresponding fasteners and remove the part along with the gaskets
6. Hammer knock out the axle from the housing.
   

   We knock out the worm shaft with a hammer, after which we remove it from the housing along with the bearings
7. Pry off the seals with a screwdriver and remove them from the crankcase. When carrying out repairs of any nature with the assembly, the cuffs must always be changed.
   

   We remove the gearbox seals by prying them with a screwdriver
8. We select the adapter and knock out the outer ring of the bearing.
   

   To remove the outer race of the bearing, you will need a suitable tool

Inspect the roller and worm for wear or damage. The gap between the bushings and the axis of the bipod should be no more than 0,1 mm. The rotation of the bearings should be easy and without binding. On the internal parts of the bearing, any flaws are considered unacceptable, as well as cracks on the mechanism case. Damaged parts are replaced with serviceable ones. Before assembling the mechanism, we lubricate all elements of the gearbox with transmission oil and assemble:

1. We hammer the bearing ring into its seat.
   

   To press the inner bearing race, use a piece of pipe of a suitable diameter
2. We place the separator in the holder and put the worm in place, after which we mount the outer bearing separator and press in its outer part.
   

   After installing the worm shaft and the outer bearing, we press the outer race
3. We install the cover with seals.
4. We press in the seals of both shafts and apply a little Litol-24 grease to their working surface.
5. By means of shims, we set the moment of turning the worm shaft 2–5 kg * cm.
6. We mount the bipod axis in place and set the turning moment from 7 to 9 kg * cm.
7. We install the remaining elements and fill the gearbox with TAD-17 grease. Its volume is 0,215 liters.
8. We put the device in place in the reverse order.

Video: disassembly and assembly of the steering column on the "classic"

Dismantling the steering gear assembly of VAZ.

Backlash adjustment

To carry out adjustment work with the node in question, you will need:

• key on 19;
• wide flat screwdriver

To adjust the steering gear you will need a flat screwdriver and a wrench for 19

The procedure boils down to the following steps:

1. We set the steering wheel in a position in which the front wheels will stand straight.
2. Using a 19 wrench, unscrew the nut on top of the gearbox.
   

   There is a nut on top of the gearbox, which fixes the adjusting rod, unscrew it
3. Remove the washer, which is the locking element.
   

   Remove the lock washer from the stem
4. We scroll the stem with a flat screwdriver clockwise half a turn and turn the steering wheel from side to side, watching the wheels. If they react almost immediately, that is, there is almost no free play, then the procedure can be considered completed. Otherwise, the stem must be tightened further.
   

   We adjust the backlash with a flat screwdriver, achieving the response of the wheels to the movements of the steering wheel without delay, the absence of bites and tight rotation
5. At the end of the adjustment, put the washer in place and wrap the nut.

With a properly adjusted steering column, the play should be minimal, and the rotation of the steering wheel without biting and excessive effort.

Video: elimination of backlash in the steering gear

How to adjust the steering column VAZ.

Steering shaft

If during the rotation of the steering wheel there is a large play on the hinges of the intermediate shaft or axial movement of the shaft on the bearings, the mechanism needs to be disassembled and repaired. The work is done as follows:

1. We remove the “-” terminal from the battery, as well as the steering wheel, plastic casing, steering column switches, connector from the ignition switch.
2. We unscrew the cardan mount and remove the bolts.
   

   We turn off the fasteners holding the cardan shaft on the gearbox shaft and the upper shaft
3. Remove the shear screws that hold the steering shaft bracket.
4. Remove bolts with washers.
   

   Having unscrewed the bolts, we remove them together with the washers
5. We unscrew 2 nuts by 13.
   

   With a 13 wrench, unscrew 2 nuts
6. We dismantle the bracket.
   

   Removing the bracket from the car
7. We remove the upper shaft from the splines of the cardan.
   

   We remove the upper shaft from the splines of the cardan
8. Remove the intermediate shaft from the worm shaft.
   

   Remove the intermediate shaft from the worm shaft
9. From the side of the steering wheel, we flare the edges of the pipe, insert the key into the ignition lock and unlock the steering wheel. We knock out the shaft together with the needle bearing.
   

   The shaft is removed together with the needle bearing
10. We knock out the second bearing with a suitable guide. If the bearings or the shaft at their installation sites have noticeable wear, the parts need to be replaced. With a noticeable backlash, we also change the cardan to a serviceable one.
11. We assemble the node in the reverse order. Before tightening the bracket fasteners, turn the steering wheel from side to side several times so that the bracket falls into place.

Pendulum

The pendulum arm itself rarely fails, but the bearings or bushings located inside sometimes have to be changed. To work, you will need a set of keys and a steering rod puller. We dismantle the mechanism in the following order:

1. We remove the right front wheel from the car, unscrew the fasteners and squeeze out the fingers of the steering trapezoid rods with a puller.
2. We unscrew the fastening of the pendulum to the right side member.
   

   We unscrew the pendulum mount to the right side member
3. We remove the lower bolt immediately, and dismantle the upper bolt together with the pendulum.
   

   Remove the pendulum together with fasteners

Replacing bushings

Repair consists of the following steps:

1. Loosen and unscrew the pendulum axle nut.
   

   To unscrew the adjusting nut, clamp the pendulum in a vice
2. We remove the axle from the body along with the internal elements (washers, seals).
   
   

   We remove the axle from the housing along with bushings and washers.
3. The axle on the bushings or bearings should sit tightly, as well as the bushings themselves in the bracket. If there is a backlash, we replace the bushings with new ones, and during installation we fill the grease inside, for example, Litol-24.
   

   The axle on the bushings must be planted tightly, as well as the bushings themselves in the bracket
4. Tighten the top nut and check the force with which the lever turns. It should be within 1-2 kgf.
5. We put the lever in place in the reverse order of dismantling.

Trapeze

A complete replacement of the steering trapezoid is necessary when all the hinges have a large output. From the tools we prepare the following set:

• cap wrenches size 13 and 22 mm;
• passages;
• a hammer;
• puller;
• a ruler with a length of at least 20 cm or a tape measure;
• wheel removal tools - jack, wheel wrench, wheel chock;
• rags, fabric gloves.

Tie rods on the VAZ 2107 are removed as follows:

1. Raise the front of the car with a jack and remove the wheels.
2. We unpin the ball pin and unscrew the nut.
   

   We take out the cotter pin and unscrew the nut of the ball pin
3. With a puller we squeeze out the thrust pin from the trunnion.
   

   We press out the thrust finger with a puller
4. From the engine compartment, unscrew the fasteners of the trapezoid to the bipod and pendulum.
   

   It is convenient to unscrew the fastening of the trapezium to the pendulum from the engine compartment
5. We squeeze out the hinge pins with a puller or knock them out through the adapter with a hammer. In the second case, we do not completely unscrew the nut to prevent damage to the thread.
   

   Squeeze out the ball pins of the trapezoid with a puller
6. We remove the old mechanism, and then install the new one by performing the reverse steps.

When the work on replacing the trapezoid is completed, it is necessary to check the wheel alignment at the service.

Tie rod ends

The extreme thrust of the steering trapezoid fail more often than the rest of the hinges. Therefore, if it becomes necessary to replace them, it is not necessary to completely remove all the rods. Tips change like this:

1. Repeat steps 1-3 to remove the trapezoid.
2. With a ruler, we measure the length of the old part at the centers of the plugs.
   

   To install the new rods correctly, on the old ones we measure the distance along the centers of the plugs
3. Loosen the clamp nut.
   

   To loosen the clamp, unscrew the nut
4. Unscrew the tip.
   

   Manually unscrew the old tip
5. We install a new tip and adjust it by screwing or unscrewing, setting the desired length.
6. After adjustment, we tighten the clamp bolts, the hinge nut, install the cotter pin.

Video: replacing the steering tip on the "classic"

Replacing the tie rod end.

Adjusting and repairing the steering on the "seven", despite the apparent complexity of the design, does not require special tools and extensive experience. The initial skills for repairing the classic Zhiguli and following step-by-step actions will be quite enough to restore the steering to working capacity.