Replacing the timing chain Mercedes w201
Content
We remove the hinged
So, let's start disassembly. We drained the antifreeze and old oil from the car into replacement containers. By the way, do not forget the cardboard under the bottom of the car, because when removing the platform and pump, garbage leakage is inevitable.
Using a 13 head, loosen the poly V-belt tensioner. Pressing the leg of the roller with a long wrench, remove the belt.
We unscrew the screws of the tensioner, and remove it.
Having wound the poly-V-belt in the form of a loop on the fan pulley, we fix it with a pipe or a key on the pump nozzle, after which we unscrew the nut on the cooling impeller.
We unscrew the hexagons from the pulley mounting. I replaced them with short M6 bolts a long time ago. If the hexagons are stuck together, make an incision and unscrew them with a chisel.
Next, using a key and a 17 head, unscrew the bolts from the generator and remove it.
Heads 10 and 13 unscrew the pump and thermostat. Be very careful, bolts break easily! A couple of liters of liquid will pour out of the pump!
We bring the head to 13 and remove the front stabilizer. This is necessary to remove the pallet. Be careful with the lever pins, they can break, they are hard to pierce! It can be removed as a last resort, it is still in the photo. For extreme positions, you have to turn the wheels.
We're picking up a giveaway. To do this, unscrew the hexagon (it is better to immediately replace it with an M8 bolt), and then pry the distributor with a screwdriver.
Now there is a difficult task called “unscrew the crankshaft nut”.
Attention!
Some break off the nut with a starter, resting the handle on the floor. I did not succeed (it is tightened with a force of 300 kg). We put the fifth gear, stops under the wheels, handbrake, take the handle with a tube of 1,5-2 meters and unscrew it.
We take a longer screwdriver and remove the crankshaft oil seal. Removing it is not so easy. You can use tweezers, the main thing is not to scratch anything.
We remove the pallet
So folks, the clean job is done, now comes the dirty work. You must be hit by a car.
Attention! Follow the safety rules! Security posts under the car, wheel chocks are a must! It will not be superfluous to put a stump under the levers! Remember that the machine is old, the metal can fail!
The oil pan on a Mercedes with an M102 engine cannot be removed in this way, since it rests against the subframe and other parts. Therefore, the engine must be raised.
Unscrew the top mount from the motor mount using the handle.
With an 8 hex, unscrew the lower engine mount. It is better, of course, if the hexagon has the shape of a head with an extension.
After that, it is necessary to unscrew all the bolts on the pallet. In a circle they go to 10, in the area of \u13b\u17bthe box there are large bolts at XNUMX and XNUMX. Your pallet will fall onto the subframe.
Pay attention to the shaft key, to remove it, you need to carefully pry it with a screwdriver or pliers. Do not lose! . Friends! It is not necessary to raise the motor and immediately remove the pan, as dust will fly inside
Ideally, this is to break out the large bolts on the side of the box (since if the engine is on a jack, then it can fall onto the frame when starting) and leave 2-3 bolts for yourself.
Friends! It is not necessary to raise the motor and immediately remove the pan, as dust will fly inside. Ideally, this is to break out the large bolts on the side of the box (since if the engine is on a jack, then it can fall onto the frame when starting) and leave 2-3 bolts for yourself.
How to pull out the pallet
Of course, since you've removed the front cover, you'll need to clear the crankcase of any debris (how to do it here). To get the deck, you need to remove the right engine mount (where the distributor is), and also unscrew the steering rods.
The shoulder blade should be turned slightly towards the removed pillow. Then it will go easy.
One more moment. Many people put the tray on top of the sealant, but putting it under the engine without staining the crankshaft is a problem. Therefore, I preferred to stick the gasket on the sealant, let it dry and only then install it.
- Council number 1. It is best to practice installing the tray without sealant and gaskets a few times to know that everything is going well.
- Council number 2. When reassembling, be sure to rotate the engine over the crankshaft several times, make sure everything is on the marks, and the pistons do not meet the valves.
- Council number 3. The crankshaft bolt must be lubricated with blue threadlocker.
- Council number 4. It is better to put a red sealant on the front cover. And also press in the crankshaft oil seal with it (use the old oil seal as a mandrel).
As a result of all the torment, the car will start to work quietly, you can easily adjust the ignition and carburetor, and in general you can forget about time for a long time.
How to remove the front cover and change the shoe / dampers
Next, with a 13 head, unscrew all the screws on the front cover. Don't forget about the three hexagons under the valve cover. Many people break metal, and for several hours I couldn't figure out why the cover wouldn't come off.
Attention! To replace the chain and intermediate shoe, the camshaft sprocket must be removed. To do this, we fix it through the hole with a knob, and with a 19 key we unscrew the nut
Pull out the extractor. There is no need to remove the stock, the block is easily changed at an angle.
The top shock studs are easily removed with an appropriate length M6 screw, washer and cap. In order not to break them, it is better not to save WD-40, to do several cycles back and forth when removing them.
Attention!
That is, pull out the piston and reinsert it from behind until the first click. Otherwise, the chain may be broken or the PB sprocket may be licked off.
You should also replace the oil line ring, clean the oil inlet screen, and generally flush everything else.
