Clutch replacement on Great Wall Hover

The use of a manual transmission in the Chinese crossover Great Wall Hover suggests that it also has a unit called a clutch. Without it, gear shifting would be impossible. This node in Hover cannot be attributed to reliable, under normal operating conditions, the native clutch serves an average of 80 thousand kilometers, and if you are not lucky, problems may arise even earlier.

Sooner or later it becomes necessary to replace the clutch. Moreover, it is better to change the entire assembly at once, since its component parts have approximately the same resource. Although the Great Wall Hover is generally quite serviceable, the process of changing the clutch is literally hard and time consuming, and you definitely don’t want to do such a repair again in a short time.

The device and operation of the clutch in the Great Wall Hover

The Hover has a single-plate clutch with a pressure spring in the center of the casing. The casing (10) made of steel includes a pressure plate (leading) and a diaphragm spring. This design is commonly referred to as a basket. The basket is connected to the flywheel with bolts (11) and rotates together with the crankshaft.

The clutch disc (9), coated on both sides with a high coefficient of friction, is mounted on the splines of the gearbox input shaft. When engaged, the clutch disc is pressed against the flywheel by the pressure plate of the basket and rotates with it. And since the clutch disc is mounted on the input shaft of the gearbox, the rotation from the crankshaft is transmitted to the gearbox. Thus, the driven disk is the link between the engine and transmission. The damper springs installed on it are designed to compensate for vibrations and fluctuations that occur during engine operation.

The Great Wall Hover uses a hydraulic clutch to disengage the clutch. It includes:

- master cylinder (1),

- working cylinder (7),

- fork (lever) for disengaging the clutch (12),

- clutch (13) with release bearing,

- hoses (2 and 5),

- expansion tank (17).

The illustration also shows the release clutch retainer (14), boot (15) and release fork support pin (16).

The fasteners are numbered 3, 4, 6, 8 and 11.

When you press the clutch pedal, the hydraulics act on the fork, which turns around its axis and presses on the release bearing, displacing it along the input shaft of the gearbox. The release clutch, in turn, presses on the inner ends of the petals of the diaphragm spring, causing it to bend. The outer ends of the petals are displaced in the opposite direction and stop exerting pressure on the pressure plate. The driven disk moves away from the flywheel, and the transmission of torque from the engine to the gearbox stops. At this point you can switch gears.

What are the signs of a clutch failure?

The most common problem is slippage, that is, incomplete engagement, when the driven disk slips due to a loose fit to the flywheel. Causes can be disc oiling, disc thinning, weakening of the pressure spring, as well as problems with the drive. Slippage is accompanied by a deterioration in the acceleration characteristics of the car, a drop in engine power, grinding and jerking during gear changes, as well as the smell of burnt rubber.

A separate issue is devoted to issues related to clutch slippage.

Incomplete disengagement occurs when depressing the clutch pedal does not move the clutch disc completely away from the flywheel. In this case, the gearbox input shaft continues to receive rotation from the engine. Gear shifting is clunky and can cause serious damage to the transmission. Action must be taken immediately.

If pressing the clutch pedal is accompanied by a hum or whistle, then the release bearing needs to be replaced. The “knocking out” of the transmission also speaks of its probable malfunction.

If the pedal has too much travel or jams, the fault must first be sought in the drive. A “soft” pedal may specifically indicate the presence of air in the hydraulic system. This problem is solved by pumping.

If the need arises, in the Chinese online store, you can pick up the necessary spare parts for repairs.

How to replace a clutch on a Great Wall Hover

To be able to get to the clutch, you will have to disconnect the cardan shafts from the transfer case, remove the gearbox, as well as the gearshift lever in the cabin. With cardans and a gear lever, there will be no difficulties. But to dismantle the gearbox, even one assistant will not be enough. In principle, it is not necessary to completely remove the gearbox, it is enough to move it so that the input shaft is released from the clutch disc hub.

Removing the transmission

1. Turn off the "minus" on the battery.

2. Unscrew cardan shafts. To do this, you need keys for 14 and 16. Do not forget to mark the relative position of the flanges with a core or chisel.

3. Disconnect all connectors, the wires from which go to the gearbox and transfer case. Release the wires themselves from the clamps.

4. Remove the clutch slave cylinder by unscrewing the two mounting bolts.

5. With a 14 wrench, unscrew 7 bolts securing the box to the engine and two more bolts with a 10 head. To unscrew some bolts, an extension cord with a cardan may be required.

6. Next, call assistants and remove the gearbox.

Or try to move it yourself. To do this, you will need a jack on wheels, a flat floor on which it can move, as well as all sorts of racks and supports. Well, savvy won't hurt either. If you have the desire and everything you need to work alone, then do the following.

7. The crossbar must be supported with a mobile jack so that the support falls approximately in the center of gravity of the gearbox with transfer case.

8. Unscrew the wrench for 18 nuts securing the cross member and remove the bolts.

9. Now you can try to move the gearbox to open access to the clutch.

Clutch

1. Mark the relative position of the basket, spring and flywheel. Remove the bolts that secure the basket to the flywheel.

2. Unhook the fixing bracket and remove the clutch with the release bearing.

3. Remove the shutdown fork together with the boot.

4. Remove the basket and driven disc.

5. Check the condition of the removed parts to decide if they need to be replaced.

Slave disk. Using a caliper, measure the depth of recessed rivets - it should be at least 0,3 mm. Otherwise, the disc must be replaced because the friction linings are excessively worn.

Install the disc on the input shaft of the gearbox and check its runout during rotation with a dial gauge. It should not exceed 0,8 mm.

 

Measure the flywheel runout in the same way. If it is more than 0,2 mm, the flywheel must be replaced.

Release bearing. It should rotate freely enough and not jam. Check for significant wear and play.

You should also check the condition of the gearbox input shaft guide bearing.

6. Install the driven disc on the flywheel. Do not mix up the sides of the disc. For centering, use a special tool (arbor).

7. Install the basket according to the marks. The bolts should be tightened with a torque of 19 Nm in the order shown in the figure, starting with the first three near the mounting pins.

8. Be convinced of correctness of an arrangement of a diaphragm spring concerning labels. The deviation must be within 0,5 mm.

9. Reassemble in the reverse order of removal.

Any clutch wears out sooner or later and needs to be replaced. But subject to certain rules, you can extend the time of its proper operation.

Do not hold the clutch pedal depressed at traffic lights or in traffic jams. This will keep the diaphragm spring and release bearing from premature wear.

If you have a habit of lightly pressing down on the pedal, get rid of it. Because of this, the disc may not be pressed tightly enough against the flywheel and slip, which leads to its rapid wear.

Try to start at low engine speeds. After engaging 1st gear, gently release the clutch pedal until you feel a vibration at the moment it is engaged. Now slowly step on the gas and release the clutch. Go!